Oil leak from the timing cover? how do i change time chain
03-13-2009, 12:26 AM
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New Jersey
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Oil leak from the timing cover? how do i change time chain
My cars been leaking oil for the 3 years ive owned it. it sits right behind the alternator bracket and also behind the distributer in my 289. i replaced the distributer so that o ring seal is fine. i also put a new intake manifold on it so that seal is fine. could it be the timing chain cover? ive never taken it off but i plan on changing the time chain this weekend so i'll end up replacing the gasket for the time cover. what are the steps to replacing that time chain? thanks guys
03-13-2009, 01:59 AM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
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I suspect it's either a valve cover or the intake seal. Did you use the cork end seals that came with the intake gasket set? They're notorious for leaking. Better off using some Ultra Black RTV (or The Right Stuff).
03-13-2009, 08:23 AM
#3
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Location: Citrus County, FL
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+1 for front of intake gasket leaking if you used the stupid end pieces, or maybe even a valve cover gasket.
since your changing the timing chain anyways (i hope your investing at least 30 or 35 bucks and getting a cloyes double roller) at least you'll be able to cross that gasket off the list.
to remove it, take off the water pump and fuel pump. then pull the balancer off the front of the crank (you'll need a puller, free tool rental from auto parts store FTW). there will be a few bolts going thru the front rail of the oil pan into the bottom of the cover so remember to get those out. then just remove any remaining bolts going thru the cover into the block and yank the thing off.
when you reinstall it, use a razor to cut the oil pan gasket off flush at the front of the block. the gasket kit should come with two small pieces of cork to replace those sections of the oil pan gasket, and a new rubber piece that goes on the half round section of the bottom of the cover.
now, if you dont want it to leak pay attention. before you do anything make sure the surfaces your working with are gasket free and have no oil on them. cheap walmart carb cleaner is less than 1.50 a can and leaves virtually no residue like the "better" brands do. use some weatherstripping adhesive to glue the small cork oil pan pieces to the bottom of the timing cover and cut the gasket so its flush with the back of the timing cover. run a thin bead of permatex across that half round section in the cover, install the rubber piece making sure its all the way seated. where the rubber piece overlaps the little nubs on the cork gaskets make sure there is a dab of permatex between the two. now, i like to put a thin layer of permatex on the bottom of the cork pieces and the rubber part too just to make sure they seal against the pan. i also use a very thin layer of permatex on both sides of the paper gasket that seals the timing cover to the block. lastly, where the pan and the block meet (where you cut the gasket flush) put a dab of permatex there to ensure a good seal between the old oil pan gasket and the new pieces.
since your changing the timing chain anyways (i hope your investing at least 30 or 35 bucks and getting a cloyes double roller) at least you'll be able to cross that gasket off the list.
to remove it, take off the water pump and fuel pump. then pull the balancer off the front of the crank (you'll need a puller, free tool rental from auto parts store FTW). there will be a few bolts going thru the front rail of the oil pan into the bottom of the cover so remember to get those out. then just remove any remaining bolts going thru the cover into the block and yank the thing off.
when you reinstall it, use a razor to cut the oil pan gasket off flush at the front of the block. the gasket kit should come with two small pieces of cork to replace those sections of the oil pan gasket, and a new rubber piece that goes on the half round section of the bottom of the cover.
now, if you dont want it to leak pay attention. before you do anything make sure the surfaces your working with are gasket free and have no oil on them. cheap walmart carb cleaner is less than 1.50 a can and leaves virtually no residue like the "better" brands do. use some weatherstripping adhesive to glue the small cork oil pan pieces to the bottom of the timing cover and cut the gasket so its flush with the back of the timing cover. run a thin bead of permatex across that half round section in the cover, install the rubber piece making sure its all the way seated. where the rubber piece overlaps the little nubs on the cork gaskets make sure there is a dab of permatex between the two. now, i like to put a thin layer of permatex on the bottom of the cork pieces and the rubber part too just to make sure they seal against the pan. i also use a very thin layer of permatex on both sides of the paper gasket that seals the timing cover to the block. lastly, where the pan and the block meet (where you cut the gasket flush) put a dab of permatex there to ensure a good seal between the old oil pan gasket and the new pieces.
03-13-2009, 09:55 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northernish Eastish Central Texas
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A couple of additional thoughts. You're draining the coolant anyways, so pull the shroud and radiator. That will give you easy access and less risk of damage. If you have AC, see if you can move the condenser out of the way.
Not sure what your motor has on it in regards to accessories, but grab a camera and take some photos of how everything is put together before you disassemble. People have been known to forget.
You're going to be removing 30-40 bolts; so get a piece of cardboard and draw an outline of your water pump on it. Draw where the alternator, AC, and PS go also. Poke holes in the cardboard where the bolts go. As you remove the bolts, stick them in the corresponding locations. This will make it easier to remember which lenght bolt goes in which hole.
Once you pull the timing chain cover, there is a round seal that is pressed into the housing. They are 5 bucks to replace and now's the time to do it.
Also, if you have a thread chasing kit, now's the time to clean all the holes so that it will go back together smoothly.
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustan...arts%20002.jpg
Not sure what your motor has on it in regards to accessories, but grab a camera and take some photos of how everything is put together before you disassemble. People have been known to forget.
You're going to be removing 30-40 bolts; so get a piece of cardboard and draw an outline of your water pump on it. Draw where the alternator, AC, and PS go also. Poke holes in the cardboard where the bolts go. As you remove the bolts, stick them in the corresponding locations. This will make it easier to remember which lenght bolt goes in which hole.
Once you pull the timing chain cover, there is a round seal that is pressed into the housing. They are 5 bucks to replace and now's the time to do it.
Also, if you have a thread chasing kit, now's the time to clean all the holes so that it will go back together smoothly.
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustan...arts%20002.jpg
03-13-2009, 11:33 AM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 588
its not the valve cover or intake seal because at times i get blow back where the oil shoots up and back on top of my intake and even into my air cleaner. i never see it happen but when i open my hood you can see the oil spray. so it couldnt be come from the front of the intake. the valve covers were also replaced with new seals, and i used silicone to seal all the gaskets.
03-13-2009, 07:17 PM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 588
yes but the breather cap is on the passenger rear side of the valve covers and the breather hose is on the driver side front. the oil ends up on the passenger side front. kinda confusing i know. you can tell the oil blow back is coming from the front of the engine somewhere
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