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valve seal replacement- I6 200

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Old 04-16-2009, 08:56 PM
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JHPSTANG
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Default valve seal replacement- I6 200

So I've gotten the engine running pretty good with some carb adjustments. At idle it doesn't smoke really, (except when there is no breeze to blow it out of the garage) but when I rev it I get a puff of light (not white)smoke, so I'm gonna go ahead and replace valve seals while I decide what to do about the brakes. I'm gonna do the rope method which seems pretty straitforward.
I've searched and researched the procedure, and I think I can do it no problem, but...
Will the keepers be self-explanatory when I get to them?
With non-adjustable rocker arms, do I still need to adjust valve lash after this process? (I'm assuming yes, but this is all from books/web research for me)
Of course all this will be put off if my wife goes into labor this weekend, which is possible.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:28 PM
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EZFEED
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Originally Posted by JHPSTANG
So I've gotten the engine running pretty good with some carb adjustments. At idle it doesn't smoke really, (except when there is no breeze to blow it out of the garage) but when I rev it I get a puff of light (not white)smoke, so I'm gonna go ahead and replace valve seals while I decide what to do about the brakes. I'm gonna do the rope method which seems pretty straitforward.
I've searched and researched the procedure, and I think I can do it no problem, but...
Will the keepers be self-explanatory when I get to them?
With non-adjustable rocker arms, do I still need to adjust valve lash after this process? (I'm assuming yes, but this is all from books/web research for me)
Of course all this will be put off if my wife goes into labor this weekend, which is possible.
Rope method...????? OK you've actuially lost me here what the heck is that.

Dude changing those umbrella seals are probably the best thing you can do for it and will most likely stop the smoke too. Just rent a valve spring compressor from AutoZone, have some grease handy, and have your new seals. You may also want to buy a full set of keepers too just to have them there so you dont make two trips in case you need to change them. I doubt you will but sometimes......sometimes.......they will be found not in the best of shape. Dont open the package and just have them there in case you need them.

Remove your rocker shaft so they are out of the way and you are looking directly at the springs, rotators, and stems. I do not remember the stroke of the 200cid but just in case, remove your spark plugs (clean them up while out) and insert a wire into the cylinder and bring the piston in the cylinder you are working on to TDC. I think there are keepers on the shafts of the valves (below the caps, not the stem keepers) to prevent them from dropping into the cylinders but then again it has been a WHILE since I did any head work on a 200cid and I have forgotten. To be sure, bring them to TDC so if one drops it wont fall out. (I'm pretty sure there are keepers though but be safe)

The compressor is pretty self explanatory and will come with instructions, pop it on, compress the spring, remove the two keepers and lift the compressed spring and cap/rotator off to expose the valve guide and valve. Remove the old umbrella seal (if there are the keepers above you will have to remove them of course) and carefully examine the tip of the valve stem and the groove where the two piece keepers engage. If there is excessive wear you may have to change it...doubt it though cause the keepers are softer and will go first.

Apply a thin coat of grease to the shaft and slide the new seal on (replace mid keeper if present). Dab a little on the groove to help the two piece keepers stay. Reinstall the compressed spring and rotator/cap and pop in the two keepers. Now is the time to check the condition of the keepers. Look at the little lip inside them that engage the stem of the valve. If it is galled up or excessivley rounded (compare to the new ones) then replace them with new.
Repeat this process for each valve and if you feel safer....bring each one to TDC to ensure you dont lose a valve. (Dude like a dumbass I have done this on other builds and I'm a little over cautious sometimes )

With the valve lash you will want to set them hot. As long as you didn't mess with the adjustments the engine should run as it did before when you replace the rocker shaft.
I dont remember what the clearance is supposed to be but get a set of feeler gauges out with the necessary gauges ready. I want to say the intake and exhaust are different like .015 intake and .020 exhaust but I may be thinking about one of my Farmall tractors 4cyls so look it up in the rebuild manual.

Get the engine up to temp then bring number one to TDC on the compression stroke. Back the jam nut off and loosen the cup for the pushrod on the intake and slip the gauge between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm then screw down the cup till it firmly sandwiches the gauge between the arm and stem. Not too hard but at least hand tight where you can still move the gauge. Do the exhaust the same way to the appropriate clearance.

When you get to three you may have to sart the engine back up to get it warm again. I dont know how fast you are.

CONGRATS ON THE KIDDO!!!!!!!
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:33 PM
  #3  
EZFEED
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Wait up....what the hell. Disregard all that crap about the adjustments.....you have non adjustable rockers.

Just slap the rocker shaft back on and your good to go
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