Oil Change
07-02-2009, 11:58 AM
#21
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The garage (near SF bay- Calif)
Posts: 469
Check the cam-shield.com website too. Reportitly they have a better
way to meter how much ZDDP you're putting in (it's also bad to have too much).
They also have a nice FAQs page that explains alot.
Note that they are down on racing oils because of the lack of detergents, this is true
for many race oils. But Valvoline Vr-1 and Roush Oil both have detergents so they are ok.
BTW, I ordered a case of VR-1 10W30 at 5.19/quart from Napa, they're really socking it to ya if they quoted you "$6 more than Mobil1"
way to meter how much ZDDP you're putting in (it's also bad to have too much).
They also have a nice FAQs page that explains alot.
Note that they are down on racing oils because of the lack of detergents, this is true
for many race oils. But Valvoline Vr-1 and Roush Oil both have detergents so they are ok.
BTW, I ordered a case of VR-1 10W30 at 5.19/quart from Napa, they're really socking it to ya if they quoted you "$6 more than Mobil1"
Last edited by 1971mach1; 07-02-2009 at 12:03 PM.
07-02-2009, 12:26 PM
#22
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 5,896
Yeah. I sell the stuff (I work at Napa) as well as buy it, and it goes for ~$5/qt. I actually talked my boss into stocking all of the Valvoline VR-1 and Valvoline NSL Race oils. Since then, we've had a lot of demand for the stuff.
There is also a new Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic (as opposed to the Not Street Legal race synthetic), which I was unaware of until Monday. A customer came in looking for it because it's on Valvoline's website, but I couldn't find anybody that sells it yet. I believe it's a brand new product and hasn't been distributed yet. It also has a really weird part number, which supports that theory.
There is also a new Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic (as opposed to the Not Street Legal race synthetic), which I was unaware of until Monday. A customer came in looking for it because it's on Valvoline's website, but I couldn't find anybody that sells it yet. I believe it's a brand new product and hasn't been distributed yet. It also has a really weird part number, which supports that theory.
07-02-2009, 12:59 PM
#23
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,233
Check the cam-shield.com website too. Reportitly they have a better
way to meter how much ZDDP you're putting in (it's also bad to have too much).
They also have a nice FAQs page that explains alot.
Note that they are down on racing oils because of the lack of detergents, this is true
for many race oils. But Valvoline Vr-1 and Roush Oil both have detergents so they are ok.
BTW, I ordered a case of VR-1 10W30 at 5.19/quart from Napa, they're really socking it to ya if they quoted you "$6 more than Mobil1"
way to meter how much ZDDP you're putting in (it's also bad to have too much).
They also have a nice FAQs page that explains alot.
Note that they are down on racing oils because of the lack of detergents, this is true
for many race oils. But Valvoline Vr-1 and Roush Oil both have detergents so they are ok.
BTW, I ordered a case of VR-1 10W30 at 5.19/quart from Napa, they're really socking it to ya if they quoted you "$6 more than Mobil1"
Thanks
07-02-2009, 04:09 PM
#24
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The garage (near SF bay- Calif)
Posts: 469
There is also a new Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic (as opposed to the Not Street Legal race synthetic), which I was unaware of until Monday. A customer came in looking for it because it's on Valvoline's website, but I couldn't find anybody that sells it yet. I believe it's a brand new product and hasn't been distributed yet. It also has a really weird part number, which supports that theory.
Valvoline on the bottle. Our local speed shop "Goodies" sells the Roush brand. Looks like good stuff. Beware that only certain weights have enough ZDDP.
10W-40 is one of the good ones. See their chart on the roushoil.com site.
Also it has what dealers carry it.
07-02-2009, 04:58 PM
#25
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,233
Also, my machinist says to change the oil soon after I reinstall everything because it will break loose a lot of crap. How soon does that mean in terms of time or miles?
If its very soon, then I think I will use the low-zinc Mobil 1 since it was cheap and I have it still.
I'm about to leave and have to make my decision
If its very soon, then I think I will use the low-zinc Mobil 1 since it was cheap and I have it still.
I'm about to leave and have to make my decision
07-02-2009, 09:27 PM
#28
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 588
when i changed my cam i ran it for 30 minutes at 2000-2500 rpms at idle sitting in the driveway, then drained everything and put new oil in. you wont get enough oil to the cam at 800-1000rpm idling speed
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