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This weekend is going to be fun! Suspension install finally here

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Old 01-24-2014, 09:58 AM
  #11  
Norm Peterson
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If you think you'll be enjoying this business of taking corners a lot harder on a regular basis, don't let the alignment tech set camber all the way back to OE spec. You'll probably be better off with -1° to maybe -1.2°




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Old 01-25-2014, 08:23 AM
  #12  
Matt's 95 Stang
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Oh I did not know that. I just had the shop put it back to OEM specks which was .5 IIRC.

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Old 01-29-2014, 03:21 PM
  #13  
Jwood562
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did you need the spring compressor?

I am doing my pro kit install soon and thought I did not need a spring compressor because I bought new gt500 strut mounts. So with the new struts, springs and strut mounts the whole assembly went together. So I thought I would remove the OEM as a whole and swap the new eibach unit in as a whole
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:09 PM
  #14  
Fox Fader
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With the mounts springs and struts, you won't need the compressor.

Without all those goodies, only need the compressor to remove the oe spring. The lowering springs are short enough so you don't need the compressor to put the new springs on.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:09 AM
  #15  
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I used one, and I would recommend renting one just because it will make it alot easier TQing down the top strut nut.

Matthew
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:21 AM
  #16  
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This ↑↑↑ .

Especially with adjustable struts that have the adjuster stem running up through the strut shaft (as at least Koni and Tokico adjustables do). Typically the strut nuts on adjustables aren't even torqued down to the OE spec, so using these strut threads to compress a suspension spring sounds like a really bad idea.


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Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-30-2014 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:50 AM
  #17  
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Oh. I see. Thanks guys
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:44 AM
  #18  
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I let the weight of the car compress the spring then torque from there.
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Old 02-03-2014, 03:52 PM
  #19  
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I'm probably gonna be doing this to my 5.0 sooner than later. Is there a video or step-by-step guide that any of you would recommend? It doesn't sound like it will be all that difficult, but I have never lowered a vehicle, so any advice would be welcome.
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:22 PM
  #20  
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You should probably loosen the bolts to the UCA and re-torque after lowering and bouncing the car a few times to settle it. Lowering the car would otherwise pre-stress the UCA bushings, which shortens their life. You may need to do something similar with the front control arms for the same reason.


If you run into a snag, ask. Somebody has probably run into whatever it is before.




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