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Pros and Cons of a S/C

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Old 11-13-2006, 02:32 PM
  #31  
markj
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C

Ok guys, you have given me a lot to think about. I was pretty much set to get the Saleen since there are a few extra left of the group buy and it's a pretty good deal. But I want to do this right so I'll do a little research and, if necessary, wait for the next group buy. Like I said in my opening post, I'm not looking for an all out racing monster. I just want a daily driver with lots of power for a fun driver.

The saleen was my first choice because it looks stock and I have heard of lots of folks bolting on to a stock motor with no issues. That's what I had in mind. I don't think I would be looking to go much over 400-450hp. That being said I would be doing the install myself and I don't know of any tuners close buy. Of course I could always use the saleen tune to get me close enough where I could take it to someone who could really dial it in.

Lots to think about. Of course it's all fun, fun stuff to mull over
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Old 11-13-2006, 04:23 PM
  #32  
Trill Gear Head
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C


ORIGINAL: burning the tiers

the s/c wont affect the longitivity of your car and once you buy the kit the directions to put it on are right there with it and it only takes about 10 hrs but is compleatly worth it if i was you i would go for it

You couldn't be more wrong. Any F/I will hurt the longevity of your motor. Its just that some F/I applications wear the motor quicker than others. This is because of the increased pressure and power creates more wear and tear on the engine's internals. As for how much twin-screw or centri's hurt the longevity is up for discussion.
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:27 PM
  #33  
BigDave
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C


ORIGINAL: MSgt46270


ORIGINAL: BigDave

I have the KB and it ran lean on the dyno too (tuner shut off at 4500 cause it was at 13.6 and rising).
I emailed KB and they blamed it on my install and a bad tuner. They totally we not helpful.
My tuner is the best in two states (SCT level 4).
Anyhow, a proper tune...or at least putting it on the dyno to check where you are at should be mandatory for any blower.
Any car will run lean, that's why you have it put on a dyno. It all comes down to the tune, a bad tune just means a matter of time before the motor blows. What was the fix on your car besides the tune?
All I did was get a good tune. I was running codes for MAF and rich both banks that cleared after the tune. I had even taken it to Ford, who would not even touch it after getting the codes.
Here is what KB said about it (one of many emails):
I appreciate that, and I too want your car to be running right, believe me. We could not get away with selling kits that do this.

I need to know: Was the adaptive adding fuel, or taking it away (if you know)?

We just hate to see our customers spend more time and money having a re-tune for something that didn't go right during the installation, that is why we highly recommend going back over the entire installation, even if it means removing the supercharger before resorting to a re-tune. If your guy is good, he can fix the rich/lean condition, but let me warn you, most Dynojet air/fuel monitors are off by as much as a full point. We have the data to back this up. So, the question now is: do you want the tuner to tuner your car based on a bad sensor reading? I would not. Just a suggestion: take it to another shop and my bet is you will get a totally different air/fuel reading.

If you tell me the tuner's name, we probably know something about him already. If you don't want to, that is your call. If you re-tune it, then find the problem later, guess what? You'll want the original tune back, so if he's going to do this, have him use his own programmer, and you keep yours (just in case).

I truly am sorry you are still experiencing problems, this is the last thing we want to happen. If there is anything else I can do from here, let me know.

Just for the hell of it, check your bypass valve operation to make sure it is not sticking. The car should in no way be sluggish. Makes me suspect the bypass valve may be hanging up.

Let me know.

Regards,

Ken
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:30 PM
  #34  
Sherwood06GT
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C


ORIGINAL: BigDave


ORIGINAL: MSgt46270


ORIGINAL: BigDave

I have the KB and it ran lean on the dyno too (tuner shut off at 4500 cause it was at 13.6 and rising).
I emailed KB and they blamed it on my install and a bad tuner. They totally we not helpful.
My tuner is the best in two states (SCT level 4).
Anyhow, a proper tune...or at least putting it on the dyno to check where you are at should be mandatory for any blower.
Any car will run lean, that's why you have it put on a dyno. It all comes down to the tune, a bad tune just means a matter of time before the motor blows. What was the fix on your car besides the tune?
All I did was get a good tune. I was running codes for MAF and rich both banks that cleared after the tune. I had even taken it to Ford, who would not even touch it after getting the codes.
Here is what KB said about it (one of many emails):
I appreciate that, and I too want your car to be running right, believe me. We could not get away with selling kits that do this.

I need to know: Was the adaptive adding fuel, or taking it away (if you know)?

We just hate to see our customers spend more time and money having a re-tune for something that didn't go right during the installation, that is why we highly recommend going back over the entire installation, even if it means removing the supercharger before resorting to a re-tune. If your guy is good, he can fix the rich/lean condition, but let me warn you, most Dynojet air/fuel monitors are off by as much as a full point. We have the data to back this up. So, the question now is: do you want the tuner to tuner your car based on a bad sensor reading? I would not. Just a suggestion: take it to another shop and my bet is you will get a totally different air/fuel reading.

If you tell me the tuner's name, we probably know something about him already. If you don't want to, that is your call. If you re-tune it, then find the problem later, guess what? You'll want the original tune back, so if he's going to do this, have him use his own programmer, and you keep yours (just in case).

I truly am sorry you are still experiencing problems, this is the last thing we want to happen. If there is anything else I can do from here, let me know.

Just for the hell of it, check your bypass valve operation to make sure it is not sticking. The car should in no way be sluggish. Makes me suspect the bypass valve may be hanging up.

Let me know.

Regards,

Ken

I'm getting the impression you did not use the tuner from KB. They ship a proprietary tuner for your vehicle. If that was not used they they won't, of course, stand by it.
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Old 11-13-2006, 07:09 PM
  #35  
fairlane292
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C

For purposes of "Just the kicking the pedal down and feeling the power!" I can't see the cost. You'll have the expense of upgrading the suspension and rubber to get traction for the added power. So after this cost what will you do with it? I would consider for 1/4 mile but the nearest track for me is 3.5 hrs away and street racing is basically out (you do enough of it, your ins cost will be atsronomical or you will get injured/killed or injure/kill someone else. I have to carefully pick my spots and find that burnouts, getting sideways and chirping gears can easily be done with OE power.
(I am going to do CAI and tune; and probably 4:10's to enhance the driving experience; but you're talking thousands)

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Old 11-13-2006, 08:22 PM
  #36  
bl1nk
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C

ORIGINAL: fairlane292

For purposes of "Just the kicking the pedal down and feeling the power!" I can't see the cost. You'll have the expense of upgrading the suspension and rubber to get traction for the added power. So after this cost what will you do with it? I would consider for 1/4 mile but the nearest track for me is 3.5 hrs away and street racing is basically out (you do enough of it, your ins cost will be atsronomical or you will get injured/killed or injure/kill someone else. I have to carefully pick my spots and find that burnouts, getting sideways and chirping gears can easily be done with OE power.
(I am going to do CAI and tune; and probably 4:10's to enhance the driving experience; but you're talking thousands)

This is very true.. All I have is a CAI and tune and I find myself sliding around even at times when Im not trying to.
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:18 PM
  #37  
BigDave
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C

I'm getting the impression you did not use the tuner from KB. They ship a proprietary tuner for your vehicle. If that was not used they they won't, of course, stand by it.

Actually, KB finally gave up and "blessed" my retune. I actually traded up for an XCal2 from my tuner for $125, I think. It has my KB tune in it and my retune. My stock Ford tune is in the defective? box that I sent back to KB. They said to have put it on a shelf for me...but I doubt it.

As far as worth the $6000+ for the power adder. Yeah, I think it is worth it. It defines the car as a serious musclecar...well removed from just a bunch of bolted on dress up stuff. Hey, I owned a 1976 Cobra II. I know all about smoke and mirrors.
I had the money saved up for a Shelby (but not the mark-up). I would have not been satisfied without some rightous HP!
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:52 PM
  #38  
fairlane292
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C

Yeah, if you have the money for the mods and in your case a track to run at, then you can definitely justify "defining a serious muscle car" for yourself.
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Old 11-14-2006, 12:09 AM
  #39  
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Default RE: Pros and Cons of a S/C

so why do some companies sell non intercooled chargers? steeda and a few other shops have assured me that at low boost is fine as long as the tune is good. hp # just wont be as consistent as a intercooled one would be, i to am in a dillema with what to do as far as a supercharger. but we know we dont want to blow an engine.
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