oakman

I also appreciate this thread. I like the looks of the slotted & drilled rotors and was wondering if they were better than the original solid rotors that came on our cars. Thanks for the education.

28HopUp

That's the reason I didn't lock/delete this thread. An open, respectfuldiscussion in encouraged, but please refrain from making personal attacks. Now carry on about your business...

Bill Jr.
28HopUp

ZZmustang

As with any discussion, it should be open and even engaging, Just not insulting.
Lets see, what other subject is in need of discussion?
And
Bill, that was perceptive of you.
Hears a thought, At the first sign of a thread being talked about in a negative way, (like , Oh, "Actually, this post is one of the biggest piles of BS that I have ever seen! " )
Maybe it would be a good thing to step in and advise the person that said this to , Oh, maybe NOT say that? Just a thought.
But then it wouldn't get exciting now would it?

CrazyAl

ZZ, you've made your point. Wasn't it you that suggested above that we drop this whole issue and revert to the discussion at hand: brake rotors? You've mentioned more than once that you want to see actual discussion, not just unsourced statements and irrelevant posts. Well, why don't you contributesomething to this thread? You said that you don't want to see "offensive comments", but you are repeating them more than anyone else in this thread.


While we're on the subject of rotors and so forth, I'll weigh in with a method that may be used to remove pad material transfer from rotors: A few companies manufacture flat (as opposed to cylindrical) flex-hones. These are used for resurfacing glazed rotors. Of course, this is not as good as a solution has having the rotors Blanchard ground, but it might suffice in a pinch:

Here is an example:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store

77, this could be a fix for you, though I would still try to figure out the cause. If you have a dial indicator you can easily measure the runout of the rotors and see if they are actually warped or if the problem is indeed pad-material transfer.

ZZmustang

Crazyal
There you go telling me what I say when that is NOT what I said.
You said I said. "You've mentioned more than once that you want to see actual discussion, not just unsourced statements and irrelevant posts."
I did say I would like to see discussions, I said nothing about "Actual" .And, A discussion, kind of has to be Actual. and then I did NOT say any thing about "unsourced statements and irrelevant posts" That’s your "MADE UP stuff, By the way, unsourced, is not a word. And then you said
" You said that you don't want to see "offensive comments", but you are repeating them more than anyone else in this thread. " there’s a reason, It's because I'm talking to different people when I say that, I still don't want to see offensive comments.
You have comments that are directed to the subject, then they are welcome, but with a grain of salt, for me that is. Your opinion, to some, is written in stone, I just don't see it that way. everyone has there opinion on any subject , even instine would argue his points because people would not just take what he said as fact. I think you should, make your point, Cut-n-paste or in the above case copy a web site. and discuss. It's not really a difficult thing not to use offensive comments.
But Then??????

ps. I don't respond to myself, so if people don't want this thread to continue all the have to do is not respond to the thread and it will stop. But if people do post a reply, even though you may not like it, I will tell them thank You and listen to ther comments.

06hoss

Wow, this got a little out of hand. Thanks for theinfo on brake rotors Al. I've been thinking of going to a big brake package up front and I was thinking of getting cross drilled just for the weight reductionto compensate for the larger rotors. I had heard that cross drilled rotors can crack, but I didn't know that they don't actually provide superior cooling. Thanks for that info as it helped me make my mind up to stay away from them.What would be your preferencefor a big brake package that isn't cross drilled?


[IMG]local://upfiles/48298/6243D3C80A4543EBA55C05BA0B21CD08.jpg[/IMG]

classj

To me, the stock brakes were not bad enough to warrant replacment for the street. I could not justify 1200-1500 bucks for brakes plus the wheels/spacers to clear them when the car stops pretty good as is with stock pads. With aftermarket pads I am sure a bit better. I also am not a big aftermarket brake fan. I like all the service parts on my car to be OE. I keep my cars a while usually, I don't want to have to be scouring the earth for rotors and calipers after a few years when support for the aftermarket stuff stops.

But, when the 700 dollar GT500 brake deal came up I jumped on it mostly for appearances and the improved pedal feel of a fixed caliper. I have not gotten around to installing it yet. But it looks nice. If I can use spacers and make them work, I will install them this spring. If not, I am going to stay stock and throw on pads.

SNAFU

OK. I took the time to read the ENTIRE thread, and I'd like to thank CrazyAl for spending the time to type all of those detailed responses (there must be over an hour of typing time). I learned a few things.

To ZZmustang - LET IT GO!!! CrazyAl apologized for getting your shorts in a twist. Please feel free to add to the discussion, but keep it on-topic (which is ironic since you are the original poster).

CrazyAl

I don't expect anyone to value my opinion any more than anyone else's. Opinions are just that--everyone has one, and an opinion by itself ismeaningless. If I post a question or read a thread for research purposes and I see someonereply "I like Brand X" or "Brand X Sucks", I don't give it any weight at all. Why should I care what someone else thinks? On the other hand, if they explain their statements and relate the hows and whys behind their opinon--and back it up with some facts--then the information starts to become credible and therefore useful.I have learned a great deal from other people's experiences and the information that they share in this manner.

This is why I postfacts to back up my statements and explainthose facts: I don't expect anyone to give my opinions any weightunless there are facts involved. I am providing well-regarded, peer reviewed, documentation that everyone can consult for further information as well as more facts regarding the subject. The authors of these books and papers on brakeshave a lot more experience than I. All of us (myself included) can learn form what they have to say. I try not to post opinions by themselves becasue frankly that is just a waste of everyone's time--including mine.


06Hoss:

You need to consider what your demands are. Yes, a cross-drilled rotor is less durable than a solid rotor of the same size. However, all the "big brake kits" for our cars are more than tough enough to handle the abuse you'd throw at them--drilled or not! My first pick would probably be Stoptech, given their pricing isbetter than most other brandsand they have fully rebuildablekits that are designed for street and track use. I am fond of Wilwood brakes too, however you have to be a bit more careful with them: Many of the Wilwood calipers are made for racing use (not street), and so they don't have dust boots on the pistons. This means you have to rebuild the calipers more often. You could use Wilwood brakes on the street, but you would have to be vigilant with inspecting the pistons and the caliper bodies for wear. Brembo is excellent. My only complaint with Brembo is their prices are the highest of all the big-brake companies. I would not hesitate to run drilled rotors from any of the companies I just mentioned. Becasue they are larger than stock they can handle the heat without worry of cracking. Wilwood and Stoptech both offer solid discs if you decide you would prefer them. I have very little personal experience with Baer, so you'll have to research them on your own.

Another option like classj said is to consider the GT500 kit. It is a lot less expensive than any of the above options. However, the GT500 kit does require spacers for most installs whereas the other big brake kits do not. The Wheel Industry Coucil specifically recommends against using wheel spacers. However, many people use them anyway. It's up to you of course, but the industry generally regards wheel spacers as a safety risk.

classj

Agreed. If I run spacers it will not be a light hearted decision. That is why the GT500 kit may be sold one day if I am not comfortable with the spacers or if the car just doesn't look right with them. But for now, I am hanging on to it. I mainly bought it because is was cheap, now it is close to 1200-1400 I believe.

As far as the spacers. The only two things that gives me some assurance are that.1) The ones I am trying out are TUV approved and manufactured under ISO. It is not easy to get a part to pass under the TUV, usually much harder than the DOT I have heard. Also, I have spoken to guys who vintage race BMW's and Porsches. They run 1"+ spacers and beat the crap out of their cars for hours on the track. Porsche used H&R spacers as original equiptment on some of the wide-body 911's years ago.

But with that said, if they do not meet my specs, I am not using them.

Best I can measure, the brembo kit that is sold through brembo requires the same clearance. I am not sure about the stoptech or Baer kit. But if I were you, I would try to get a fixed 4 piston caliper if you can, that is my preference, but it is more of a pedal feel thing.

Wilwoods usually have no dust boots like Al said. In general, street rod guys use them that do not run their cars year round and in the winter snow and salt. I spoke to Wilwood about their calipers for my mopar, their opionion was that for summer cruising with limited mileage they would be fine, but in no way are daily driver type of brakes.