NO!!!!!!If you unbolt just one side & leave it to race you will most likely hurt the radiator!The factory sway bar ties into the radiator support.So by installing the sway bar delete kit you get rid of the sway bar and install a much lighter radiator support!

 

does it make the car feel faster, with the front end being lighter and such?

 

A good p[:@][:@]p before the run is good for a tenth !!

 

25lb is a little less than a half a tenth in the quarter. Is it worth messing up your street cornering? Unless your running a class were time counts, your probably running a dail in class so it doesn't matter. The swaybar is a tube and not solid like the old days. I removed it doing a thunking test and it doesn't weight 25lb that's for sure. I think the 25lb drop is if you removed the whole rad frame/swaybar and replaced with the aftermarket delete setup.

 

Look at this thread and you will see where the weight reduction comes from. 89Trooper did the write up from over on TMS

BMR Swaybar Delete Kit Install[/align] [hr] I've had my swaybar off for quite awhile now, so I decided to break down and get the BMR Swaybar Delete kit that replaces the heavy stock radiator support. For those who do not know, the stock support also has to be able to take the forces acting on it from the swaybar. So, if the swaybar is removed, this big, heavy support isn't needed any more. After removing the swaybar and replacing the support, there is a weight savings of almost 30 lbs.

First, I jacked up the nose and put the car safely on jack stands. If you are removing the swaybar you'll probably want to take off the front tires for more access, but this isn't necessary if you are just changing the radiator support.

SWAYBAR REMOVAL

I didn't take any pictures when I removed the swaybar, but it's very easy. Basically, there are six nuts that have to be removed. Four of them are on the radiator support shown here:

This also shows the difference between the two supports.

The other two nuts that have to be removed hold the swaybar end links to the strut assemblies:

Thank you, TacoBill, for the pic!

After those six nuts are removed, the swaybar and the end links will come right off the car.

PLASTIC PROTECTOR REMOVAL

Seven little bolts must be removed and this piece will drop right down. Close your eyes if you are under this when you pull it down... a lot of trapped dirt will probably come down as well.


STOCK RADIATOR SUPPORT REMOVAL

The first thing that should be done is to remove everything that is connected to the stock support. This is best shown in this picture:

The yellow circles show the clips that hold the brake line. Just pop the brake line out of the clips. The blue circle shows where the A/C line bracket attaches. Remove the nut and then remove the bracket from the stud. There is also a wire tie holding the power steering line shown in this picture:

It's kinda blurry, but I just cut the wire tie. I'm not sure why it's even there.


Next, loosen the four nuts that attach the radiator support to the frame. Do not remove them at this time because the radiator will come right down with the support.

This is what happens when you start to loosen the four nuts:

The top radiator supports prevent the radiator from going up, left, right, forward, and backwards... but not down, so the radiator has to be supported:

I just used a jackstand. It worked perfectly.

Now that the radiator is supported, you can fully remove the four nuts and drop the radiator support down and out from under the car.

PARTS SWAP

There's nothing much to do here... just move the rubber over from the stock support over to the BMR support:



BMR SUPPORT INSTALLATION

Couldn't be easier. Line up the four studs and make sure the radiator is in the two rubber pieces, and mount it back to the car:



After the nuts are started, you can get the jack stand out of the way that is supporting the radiator. The torque for these four nuts is 85 lb/ft.

FINISHING UP

For the price, you would think they would include wire ties to re-connect the plastic piece to the new support, but they don't. Here are the extra things I did:

I used a thick wire tie to connect the A/C line bracket to the BMR support. It was held on by that nut to the stock radiator support, but this holds it just as well.


Re-install the four bolts that hold the plastic piece to the bumper. The rear is held to the BMR support with three wire ties.



[URL=http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f167/89Trooper/Mustangs/BMR%20Swaybar%20Delete/P1010236.jpg][IMG]http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f167/89Trooper/Mustangs/BMR%20Swaybar%20De

 

The 26lb drop is from removing the front swaybar and radiator support and replacing it with the BMR piece.
As far as messing upthe street corning...that all depends on how you drive. If you'reaccustomedto taking sharp 90 degree turns oncity streets at 50+mph then this isn'tthe mod for you. I've tested taking sharp turns around 40mph and it has a bit more body roll than stock but it didn't exactly run on rails when stock either. If you don't autocross, then this isn't a bad mod and the street handling is still better than my 1999 V6 Mustang.

If you are going to autocross from time to time...then you will want to stay away from this mod. Even if you get the swaybar delete and want to autocross, 30 minutes will have the old one back in place and ready to go.

 

It looks like it would only take a few minutes to take the old one out to go make my drag runs at the track. I'm not so conserned with the weight savings, but rather looking for the weight transfer to increase. I would assume if the sway bar is not installed, it allows the front end to raise up more, thus transfering more wight to the rear, helping 60' times. I already have adjustable shocks and LCA's with relocate brackets to help with launching. I'm hoping to hit 12.50 this weekend if weather allows. I'm already trapping 109-110, I'm just having a hard time getting all the power transformed into traction.

 

I removed my front sway and radiator support about a year ago. replaced all that stuff with the BMR setup and a front strut tower brace.

I really like the way the car handles. the additon of the FSTB really tightened up the front of the car.

Now when I get on it the front raises up in the air and the GT takes off like a bullet. just like the ole days.