This is EXACTLY what I was hoping for! You rock, MTAS! Mustang people pretty much peg the don't suck meter, IMHO. Thanks so much for your help and advice. I will be heading to the parts store over lunch tomorrow and starting the car tomorrow night.

Thanks again,

Jim

 

MTAS helped me, now I hope these pics will help someone else.

Jim


Through the firewall very cleanly


Upside down shot of the driver's side block where the new water temp
sender unit resides.


Shot of the GlowShift "sandwich" adapter. Note power wire just sitting
there. Oil filter is now a mere centimeter fromanti-sway bar, but it went
in without the use of a big, effin' hammer.


Closer shot of "sandwich" showing sender unit.


Finished Speed of Sound A-Pillar


Another shot of the SOS A-Pillar

 

MTAS,

I have the gauges wired up per out earlier posts, and the water temp gauge is working fine. No leaks... nada... oil or water. However, the oil pressure gauge pegs all the way over to the stop when I turn on the key, and no change when the car is running. I triple checked all of the wiring before I installed the pod because, well, I'm just ****... LOL. I got back under the car and swapped the wire on the oil pressure gauge from one lead to the other with the same results. Could this be caused by not running the other side to the idiot light? Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jim

 

Hey Jim - how did you connect the new gauge's sensor to the block?
1) A t-fitting (where you keep the factory wire intact)
or
2) did you cut the factory wire, ground it, and put the new gauge's sensor in the same spot where the factory sensor was? My setup is option 2. Can you post pics of the back of your gauge (with the wires connected) and where the new sensor is attached to the block? The gauge should peg or nearly peg on start-up, but once she's warmed up/hot, it should read a bit over 20PSI at idle. BTW, what part of MO are you from?

Dave

 

Dave,

Take a look at the pic below. You can see that I used a "sandwich" adapter between the block and the oil filter. The adapter has four ports on it the you can install things into such as oil pressure, oil temp, turbo, blower, ect. As far as the gauges are concerned, I wired all the negs to one ground wire (including lights), wired all hots (including lights) to one wire and to thepanel you told me about, and finally wired each sender post to their respective sender units. Like I said, water temp gauge is working great. I checked the guage-end connections again last night, and I used proper wire nuts and I taped all of the connections after I tested them with a good tester for continuity. My gut tells me it's the sender unit and not the gauge. There are two posts on the sender unit that is screwed into the sandwich adapter... one says "G" or sender, and the other says "K" for the check engine light. I only connected the sender side, because my stock gauge is still working (by design). Thoughts?

Jim

PS... I'm in Hillsboro, MO. About 25 minutes from the JB Bridge. You close?

 

Jim - interesting device there, that "sandwich" thing. I've never seen anything like that, though it makes sense that someone would invent such a thing[sm=smiley16.gif] Where did you get it? I used a piece of braided line going from the block to the sending unit. A device like your's would make for a cleaner install IMO. It sounds to me like you have everything wired up correctly - I'm inclined to agree that the sending unit for the new gauge might be defective, which would suck but would be a relatively easy fix I'd guess. I'm gonna guess that you've driven the car enough to get it warmed up (since you said the coolant temp guage is working), but the oil pressure doesn't budge? Your stock oil "pressure" gauge (and I use the term loosely) is still "working" because the stock sending unit is still in its spot - I can see it in your pic. Look to the lower left of the new sending unit at about a 45* angle - that thing that looks like a nut in the pic is the stock sendint unit - it has a single wire connected to it.

Hillsboro? Holy crap what a small world - I grew up in Arnold, Fox High class of '84, and graduated from JeffCo in May '86! I moved from Arnold/Fenton in Nov '95 to Tampa and have been here since. Despite living in the St. Louis area my whole life until I was 30, I never adjusted to the winters once I had to drive in that crap to go to work LOL

 

Dave,

I got the sandwich adapter at GlowShift... http://glowshiftdirect.com. They have all kinds of cool stuff, and very reasonably priced. I paid 27.00 for the adapter and free shipping. I also spoke to EQUUS gauges today, too. Get this... no questions asked, they are shipping me a new sender unit AND gauge. I was duly impressed. I also moved my ground tonight, too. I am now grounding everything to the firewall inside the driver footwell. Somebody told me you should always have seperate ground points. I figured it couldn't hurt. Didn't do any good, but couldn't hurt... LOL.

Btw,we live 6 miles from Jeffco, and I work in Fenton. Our daughter spent her second year of college there at Jeffco removing her head from her poop chute. She is now back on track and back at Mizzou. Do you ever get back here to visit? Still have family here? Also, yes... the winters SUCK here. This year has been the worst for cold and snow, too. However, after I got the car back together tonight, I warmed her up and went for a little spin. Sideways through first and second down highway B... giddyup! We are supposed to get another major storm starting late tonight and lasting through friday. I am praying for April.

Jim

 

Windveil Blues: Was the hole in the block 1/8 npt? or did you have to get some adapter?

 

It seems to be a sandwich adapter between the block and oil filter from the pics.

 

I'm sorry, I should have been more specific. I was trying to figure out what the hole in the block was for the coolant passage. Anyone have ideas there?