2005-2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.

gone batty with the mods bug

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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 10:02 PM
  #41  
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nelias7306
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From: NEW YORK
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here is a useful site with a table of gear patterns

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

once you have determined the correct pinion depth and backlash it is time to assemble


unscrew the bearing cap bolts

remove the carrier

unscrew the pinion bolt (i used the impact)

remove the pinion flange (hold the pinion so it doesn't drop!!!)

remove the pinion

place rtv on the new seal and use the old outer pinion bearing race and a seal driver to pound it in. let it cure

for two hours


now place the crush sleeve on the pinion and reinsert it




place the flange on and put rtv on the bottom of the pinion nut and blue loctite on the threads of the nut


tight the nut hand tight. now get that 5ft pipe and attach it again. tighten the nut. you will feel excessive play

at first and you will require upwards of 300 ft/lbs to get the crush sleeve to crush so the 5 ft bar makes it easy

and a 3ft cheater with an extension. once you feel little to no play in the pinion start going slow!!!!! I'm

talking not even an eight of a turn cause once the play has gone the preload starts to increase exponentially and it

only takes a small turn. periodically remove the bars and check the running torque for about 25 in/lbs for new

bearings. once you got it stop

ok now take the carrier and races and repeat the installation of the carrier

tap in the backlash shim

put the bearing caps on correctly

tighten them to 77ft/lbs

ok as if it wasn;t enough one more check of the tooth pattern and the backlash to make sure we got what we want goin in

slide the axles back in put c-clips on in carrier (the s-pring may have moved a bit just tap it with a hammer)

install axle pinion and apply blue loctite to bolt (i torqued it goodentight)

pull axles out a bit

fill housing with 1.7l of 75-140 synth gear oil and 4 oz of friction modifier

apply rtv to housing and attach cover. torque bolts to 33ft/lbs

you're done... now install diff using the opposite of the removal. it is tricky without two or three peope though
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 10:06 PM
  #42  
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nelias7306
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From: NEW YORK
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Originally Posted by deekum1627
nice work man great job. did you put on a nice cover and paint the rear end too

hey, i wanted to so bad but i wanted to get the diff back in in a hurry and i skipped it. I'm gonna definitely order a new cover but i'll skip the paint
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 10:11 PM
  #43  
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nelias7306
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From: NEW YORK
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it's painstakingly slow and tedious process but if you get everything right you should have no problem. I've read about people having theirs whine even when taken to a professional shop. they prolly didn't carefully inspect the pattern. the guy stressed to me that no matter what the specs tell you the pattern is the moment of truth and tell all
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #44  
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deekum1627
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From: Long Island, moving to arizona soon
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nice job again man and you gotta fix your sig now its not coming soon anymore lol
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 11:38 PM
  #45  
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deekum1627
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From: Long Island, moving to arizona soon
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hey were in new york do you live would love to see pics of the car to if you got
Old Sep 24, 2008 | 11:53 PM
  #46  
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nelias7306
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From: NEW YORK
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Originally Posted by deekum1627
nice job again man and you gotta fix your sig now its not coming soon anymore lol
good call lol
Old Oct 1, 2008 | 11:39 PM
  #47  
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nelias7306
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From: NEW YORK
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oh dam !!! just put the frpp hot rod cams in and this car is rockin now!!! it has alot more power now too.

now i see why they say you need to get a tune though cause it runs alittle erratic at idle they prolly gotta get the rpm's up at idle. it is louder than before too and it was already loud to begine with. i turned alot of heads driving this weekend i absolutley love it

gonna take it in for a tune now
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