gone batty with the mods bug
#41
here is a useful site with a table of gear patterns
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
once you have determined the correct pinion depth and backlash it is time to assemble
unscrew the bearing cap bolts
remove the carrier
unscrew the pinion bolt (i used the impact)
remove the pinion flange (hold the pinion so it doesn't drop!!!)
remove the pinion
place rtv on the new seal and use the old outer pinion bearing race and a seal driver to pound it in. let it cure
for two hours
now place the crush sleeve on the pinion and reinsert it
place the flange on and put rtv on the bottom of the pinion nut and blue loctite on the threads of the nut
tight the nut hand tight. now get that 5ft pipe and attach it again. tighten the nut. you will feel excessive play
at first and you will require upwards of 300 ft/lbs to get the crush sleeve to crush so the 5 ft bar makes it easy
and a 3ft cheater with an extension. once you feel little to no play in the pinion start going slow!!!!! I'm
talking not even an eight of a turn cause once the play has gone the preload starts to increase exponentially and it
only takes a small turn. periodically remove the bars and check the running torque for about 25 in/lbs for new
bearings. once you got it stop
ok now take the carrier and races and repeat the installation of the carrier
tap in the backlash shim
put the bearing caps on correctly
tighten them to 77ft/lbs
ok as if it wasn;t enough one more check of the tooth pattern and the backlash to make sure we got what we want goin in
slide the axles back in put c-clips on in carrier (the s-pring may have moved a bit just tap it with a hammer)
install axle pinion and apply blue loctite to bolt (i torqued it goodentight)
pull axles out a bit
fill housing with 1.7l of 75-140 synth gear oil and 4 oz of friction modifier
apply rtv to housing and attach cover. torque bolts to 33ft/lbs
you're done... now install diff using the opposite of the removal. it is tricky without two or three peope though
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/
once you have determined the correct pinion depth and backlash it is time to assemble
unscrew the bearing cap bolts
remove the carrier
unscrew the pinion bolt (i used the impact)
remove the pinion flange (hold the pinion so it doesn't drop!!!)
remove the pinion
place rtv on the new seal and use the old outer pinion bearing race and a seal driver to pound it in. let it cure
for two hours
now place the crush sleeve on the pinion and reinsert it
place the flange on and put rtv on the bottom of the pinion nut and blue loctite on the threads of the nut
tight the nut hand tight. now get that 5ft pipe and attach it again. tighten the nut. you will feel excessive play
at first and you will require upwards of 300 ft/lbs to get the crush sleeve to crush so the 5 ft bar makes it easy
and a 3ft cheater with an extension. once you feel little to no play in the pinion start going slow!!!!! I'm
talking not even an eight of a turn cause once the play has gone the preload starts to increase exponentially and it
only takes a small turn. periodically remove the bars and check the running torque for about 25 in/lbs for new
bearings. once you got it stop
ok now take the carrier and races and repeat the installation of the carrier
tap in the backlash shim
put the bearing caps on correctly
tighten them to 77ft/lbs
ok as if it wasn;t enough one more check of the tooth pattern and the backlash to make sure we got what we want goin in
slide the axles back in put c-clips on in carrier (the s-pring may have moved a bit just tap it with a hammer)
install axle pinion and apply blue loctite to bolt (i torqued it goodentight)
pull axles out a bit
fill housing with 1.7l of 75-140 synth gear oil and 4 oz of friction modifier
apply rtv to housing and attach cover. torque bolts to 33ft/lbs
you're done... now install diff using the opposite of the removal. it is tricky without two or three peope though
#42
#43
it's painstakingly slow and tedious process but if you get everything right you should have no problem. I've read about people having theirs whine even when taken to a professional shop. they prolly didn't carefully inspect the pattern. the guy stressed to me that no matter what the specs tell you the pattern is the moment of truth and tell all
#47
oh dam !!! just put the frpp hot rod cams in and this car is rockin now!!! it has alot more power now too.
now i see why they say you need to get a tune though cause it runs alittle erratic at idle they prolly gotta get the rpm's up at idle. it is louder than before too and it was already loud to begine with. i turned alot of heads driving this weekend i absolutley love it
gonna take it in for a tune now
now i see why they say you need to get a tune though cause it runs alittle erratic at idle they prolly gotta get the rpm's up at idle. it is louder than before too and it was already loud to begine with. i turned alot of heads driving this weekend i absolutley love it
gonna take it in for a tune now
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