Mobil 1 Oil Analysis Results
#31
Here is a link to some field tests on Mobile 1 and Amsoil:
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
This link takes you to the Mobile 1 write-up and the menu on the left will take you to the Amsoil write-up plus other information. I don't know how scientific this is - they did use Blackstone for some of the tests. (It's been a while since I read this.)
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
This link takes you to the Mobile 1 write-up and the menu on the left will take you to the Amsoil write-up plus other information. I don't know how scientific this is - they did use Blackstone for some of the tests. (It's been a while since I read this.)
#32
On the track with 4.10's... you weren't "running out of gear" you were "running out of powerband". I used to run out of "gear" with my stock cams. Now I have the powerband to work with the 4.10's. 6800rpm redline... it's beautiful.
I have to agree with the 3.73's for DD argument, but now that I have a 2000-6500 powerband it's a whole new world. I wouldn't give up my 4.10's now.
I have to agree with the 3.73's for DD argument, but now that I have a 2000-6500 powerband it's a whole new world. I wouldn't give up my 4.10's now.
#33
Hi Stoenr - I leave 30 weight in all the time. I know what Ford recommends and I've heard every argument under the sun for both 20W and 30W. But in my opinion - the proof is in the data and thus far the data says 30W is fine. Until someone shows me actual oil analysis that says 30W oil is hurting the car...I'm just not going to listen. Until proven otherwise - I'm of the opinion either is fine for a street car and 30W is preferable for a track car.
#34
IMO go ask the question on bobistheoilguy. That site deals specifically with motor oils.
Short answer is that they recommended it for fuel economy reasons. There are ideas floating around that the tolerances are tight enough on the engine that 20W is actually good for it. But no real proof and when you consider Saleen and Roush recommend 30W that doesn't appear to hold up to scrutiny. 30W may be better for your engine if you beat the hell out of it at a race track. A spirited DD and an occasional drag strip car isn't probably going to benefit much form 30W oil.
Lots of opinions, no scientific testing on a large enough scale to truly prove much of anything. Pick your poison. 20W and 30W are both probably going to be fine 99% of the time IMO. 20W is required for complete warranty coverage.
Short answer is that they recommended it for fuel economy reasons. There are ideas floating around that the tolerances are tight enough on the engine that 20W is actually good for it. But no real proof and when you consider Saleen and Roush recommend 30W that doesn't appear to hold up to scrutiny. 30W may be better for your engine if you beat the hell out of it at a race track. A spirited DD and an occasional drag strip car isn't probably going to benefit much form 30W oil.
Lots of opinions, no scientific testing on a large enough scale to truly prove much of anything. Pick your poison. 20W and 30W are both probably going to be fine 99% of the time IMO. 20W is required for complete warranty coverage.
#36
It really depends where your car lives and how you drive it. If your a drag racer - DON'T FEAR THE GEAR
I changed from 4:10 to 3:73 specifically for road racing. The 4:10s are simply too short on a race track, I was consistently running out of gear before I ran out of straight away. For street only driving...its a toss up. I loved the way 4:10s hit so hard but 1st gear was so short it was kind of a pain. IMO, for a toy street car 4:10s are the way to go. For a DD I'd personally rather have the 3:73s.
As far as 4.10s and FI - / thread.
#37
A few years ago, Consumer Reports did a test on NYC taxi cabs putting different types of oil in identical cabs. They ran them for 6,000 mi between oil changes (to accelerate wear) and what they found was that motor oil protects and engine the same from one brand to the other (excepting synthetics). Synthetics are great if you have a vehicle which runs allot of miles (ie cabs, pizza cars etc). But you must factor in the additional cost of the oil. Consumer reports concluded that the only difference in oil is price and additives. In other words, they said buy the cheapest oil you can find, it protects the same as the most expensive. This also includes bulk oil you get a Quickie-lube.
As far as weights go, do what your owners manual says.
As far as weights go, do what your owners manual says.
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