I changed the oil for the first time last week. I usually stick with the manual recommended stuff, but since the car is blown I went full synth. Mobil1 and a K&N filter. I like the K&N because it has a 1" nut on the top which can be handy. $11.99 at Autozone for that... I only drive the car once a week, so maybe a couple thousand miles per year. I'll change it yearly in the fall.

 

Motorcraft 5-20 blend and filter every 3k for me cause it's cheap insurance besides i like to look around and clean underneath and usually rotate tires too. and for those that do the once a year change there is humidity buildup and that is water droplets and water does what? expand and contract when hot and cold. again cheap insurance and it's cheap

 

I don't even drive 3000 miles in a year...

 

oil yes, filter no, oil does loose some viscosity over time but id prob agree on a once a year change with a synthtic like amsoil and a filter (for cars driven under ~7500 mil a year, if you store your car change it before putting it away)

heres a tip, if its starting to get dirty, thats the start of sludge, when you check your oil run your thumb and index finger down the dipstick, if the oil doesnt "web" on your fingers its time for a change.

i used to run 520 in my car under warenty, 530 out of warenty and 1030 when i hit 80k, havent decided what im going to use when i redo the motor yet.

 

m1 = not a true full synthetic

K&N O/F = bosch filter with a nut on the end and $10 added to the price tag

 

Doesn't matter to me, M1 is fine. All this oil hocus pocus is BS if you ask me. I've used everything under the sun over the years across over 20 different vehicles. I have no evidence that using synthetic ever mattered one bit. The most important thing is changing it at a decent interval and using a good quality filter. I went with synthetic this time simply because the car is blown, however I still think it was a waste of money deep down. I don't care however, the nice thing about money is I'll go to work on Monday and make more.

The K&N was $11.99. It used to be made on the same assembly line as the Mobil1 filters using different media, but I don't know if thats true anymore. Don't care frankly, lol. You're telling me I can buy a Bosch oil filter for $1.99? Doubt it. Again, I change my oil once a year. I spent like $55 on it this time because the M1 was a rip at $7/quart. /shrug

 

local sam's club has no 5w-20 Pennz Plat, just 5w-30. ok to use?

i'm in the Philadelphia area.

 

https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...l-changed.html
Avoid Pennzoil like the plague.
You want a good synth like Mobil1 Full
Synthetic thats loaded with the needed Zinc
for proper engine wear. Most oils are shying
away from incorporating Zinc into their formulas.
Sams club is the worst place to buy oil.
Wal-Mart is the next worst place.
They have the cheap prices because they can buy in bulk.
This allows the manufacturers to give the Wal-Mart corp
a good price but provide sub-standard lubricants to match
the low bid prices. Its like that with 50% of non-Wal-Mart
produced items. Come on, whats a few more $$s spent
for the good stuff at the Auto-Parts stores?
And, no, I would not recommend an oil weight different
from the manufacturers recommendations. You are playing
with fire, there.

But water does condense in the crankcase over time and temperature
changes. This can end up in your crankcase or your bearing surfaces
unless you get her up to operating temps where the condensed moisture
can evaporate from the crankcase.

 

Zinc content is mainly an issue with performance flat-tappet camshafts in pushrod engines, as it's the heavy sliding motion between the cam lobes and the bottoms of the lifters that requires extreme pressure protection. But Pennzoil has not been one of the better choices even before the recent zinc phase-out. My own experiences with Pennzoil a few years ago was that it left tough, waxy deposits all over the top surface of the heads (different engines, but still aluminum heads). Even though I did not have a lubrication failure of any sort, the idea that internal oil passages might also be accumulating this crud was all I needed to switch. The rest of what I had got used only as chain saw bar oil or if I needed to add a half-quart to some car between oil changes.

5W30 should be OK, but from links in the other oil thread (https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...ankcase-2.html) you might want to wait a little longer after starting the car before leaning on the throttle very hard or using too many rpms.


Norm

 

Avoid Pennzoil like the plague? Why? People have been raving about that over on bobistheoilguy. Almost as good as Amsoil and for noowhere near the cost. It's Mobil1 that is in a crapstorm right now.

http://jobbersworld.com/valvolineq&Apage1.htm