alignment with camber plates?
#1
alignment with camber plates?
I've never had an alignment on a lowered car, so I'm a bit of a newb with all this.
I'm going to buy a suspension setup when tax check gets here (2 weeks woot), and I know I'll need an alignment after the install. I've added J&M Camber/Caster Plates to the shopping list, but I've no idea how to use them. do I make the adjustments with a tool of some sort? do i take it to a shop with an alignment rack? will a shop even align a modified car? what questions should i ask when i call for a place if it needs to be done by a pro?
sorry for the newbie questions, but I have no experience with this
thanks!
I'm going to buy a suspension setup when tax check gets here (2 weeks woot), and I know I'll need an alignment after the install. I've added J&M Camber/Caster Plates to the shopping list, but I've no idea how to use them. do I make the adjustments with a tool of some sort? do i take it to a shop with an alignment rack? will a shop even align a modified car? what questions should i ask when i call for a place if it needs to be done by a pro?
sorry for the newbie questions, but I have no experience with this
thanks!
#2
Those plates are non-adjustable.
I would recommend the camber adjusting bolts
instead of the adjustable upper strut mounting bearings.
You caster is not going to change much but the camber
will be out of spec as well as the toe unless you add
a bumbsteer kit to your list.
Upper adjustable camber/caster plates are for serious
racers who run different camber/caster for better handling
on the track, not for improved tire wear as the OEM specs
are set up for.
If the shop knows their busisness, they will slot your strut
mounting holes and install the camber bolts for you.
Once you lower the front, the tie rod angle changes
from semi-neutral to way above center causing bump
steer over bumps. Dropped spindles solve all the lost
suspension travel, out of spec camber/caster/toe and
the bump steer problems with one mighty swoop.
I would recommend the camber adjusting bolts
instead of the adjustable upper strut mounting bearings.
You caster is not going to change much but the camber
will be out of spec as well as the toe unless you add
a bumbsteer kit to your list.
Upper adjustable camber/caster plates are for serious
racers who run different camber/caster for better handling
on the track, not for improved tire wear as the OEM specs
are set up for.
If the shop knows their busisness, they will slot your strut
mounting holes and install the camber bolts for you.
Once you lower the front, the tie rod angle changes
from semi-neutral to way above center causing bump
steer over bumps. Dropped spindles solve all the lost
suspension travel, out of spec camber/caster/toe and
the bump steer problems with one mighty swoop.
Last edited by 157dB; 02-14-2009 at 06:11 PM.
#3
You will want to take it to an alignment shop,
some places won't want to mess with it because
its lowered, if you have any performance shops
in area call them, they may be able to tell you
who can do it, or just call around to tire stores
and ask, some only have computerized systems
that can only be calibrated to factory specs and
techs don't know how to adjust for lowered cars,
also ask how they clamp to wheels, some machines
will leave marks.
some places won't want to mess with it because
its lowered, if you have any performance shops
in area call them, they may be able to tell you
who can do it, or just call around to tire stores
and ask, some only have computerized systems
that can only be calibrated to factory specs and
techs don't know how to adjust for lowered cars,
also ask how they clamp to wheels, some machines
will leave marks.
#4
Those plates are non-adjustable.
I would recommend the camber adjusting bolts
instead of the adjustable upper strut mounting bearings.
You caster is not going to change much but the camber
will be out of spec as well as the toe unless you add
a bumbsteer kit to your list.
Upper adjustable camber/caster plates are for serious
racers who run different camber/caster for better handling
on the track, not for improved tire wear as the OEM specs
are set up for.
If the shop knows their busisness, they will slot your strut
mounting holes and install the camber bolts for you.
Once you lower the front, the tie rod angle changes
from semi-neutral to way above center causing bump
steer over bumps. Dropped spindles solve all the lost
suspension travel, out of spec camber/caster/toe and
the bump steer problems with one mighty swoop.
I would recommend the camber adjusting bolts
instead of the adjustable upper strut mounting bearings.
You caster is not going to change much but the camber
will be out of spec as well as the toe unless you add
a bumbsteer kit to your list.
Upper adjustable camber/caster plates are for serious
racers who run different camber/caster for better handling
on the track, not for improved tire wear as the OEM specs
are set up for.
If the shop knows their busisness, they will slot your strut
mounting holes and install the camber bolts for you.
Once you lower the front, the tie rod angle changes
from semi-neutral to way above center causing bump
steer over bumps. Dropped spindles solve all the lost
suspension travel, out of spec camber/caster/toe and
the bump steer problems with one mighty swoop.
_______________my head _______________
here's my shopping list. thought i had all my bases covered lol
Tokico D-specs
H&R super sport springs
UMI double adjustable panhard bar
UMI single adjustable lower control arms
and the camber plates i listed before.
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