700hp
04-07-2009, 03:54 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Posts: 497
700hp
I know a while back someone made a thread on what you needed to support 700hp, does anyone know what i will need to make this happen? Or can someone give me the link thanks. and by the way i will have a forged block and i am getting a procharger.
04-08-2009, 03:05 PM
#5
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 453
your gonna need ported heads for sure if you want to be on pump gas, don't forget about spark also, you might start experiencing some blow out, so upgraded coilpacks. And unless all your going to be doing is roll racing, than your gonna need a transmission for the strip...
04-08-2009, 03:40 PM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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Posts: 1,699
Good lord...
To my knowledge, I think I am the only person who has built a reliable street daily car to push over 700 rwhp. (796 to be exact)
Here's the main thing - if it is going to be a primarily strip car and only see the street once in awhile for short cruises, then it is a heck of a lot easier.
Making the power is fairly easy, managing it and controlling temps is the hard part.
If it's a strip car, you basically just need an upgraded fuel system - lines, rails, injectors, etc. I'm not talking about a BAP or even the GT500 set-up for that level - I'm talking a custom return system or at the very least, the lethal performance triple pump set-up or drop in return triple pump unit. Your stock coils are fine but you will need a spark-a-boost. You don't 'need' to have your heads ported but an upgraded valve train is mandatory and make sure they use bronze guides and 1mm oversize inconel valves and proper seats, springs, etc. There is a lot more to the valve train than many of the vendors are pedaling IMO.
To make 700 to the tires means quite a bit more to the flywheel so not any run of the mill built short block is going to do. Buy one of the off the shelf kits and you will be kissing it by-by pretty soon. With that level of power on a 4.6 base block, you are going to need something stronger than the average pistons, rods, studs, etc. Your going to want 'high boost' pistons cause it is going to take a lot of boost to make that power. High boost = a specific dome design and thicker rings to handle it. Diamond pistons are probably your best bet. You're also going to want to take a close look at your rod ratio and make sure it is adequate for how you are going to twist the car. Personally, I would make sure your main bearings and everything involved in the block is built for big power. Otherwise, you are on borrowed time. You are also going to need a much bigger meter and a tuner who knows what he is doing.
Now, this new found power is going to shred your stock rear end in quick fashion. Forget about the 5r55 and any upgraded 'kits' for it. Forget the stock manual garbage and for that level of power, I'd skip any manual altogether cause you are going to burn through clutches regardless of what you put in there. Your stock diff is toast - as is a tru trak at those levels, so you will need a locker or spool. If you don't want to splurge for a 9" - you are going to have to put 9" ends on your 8.8 and run aftermarket axles at the very least. This is what I have on my car with 35 spline gun drilled axels and a 3650 upgraded yoke. I also run a spool but the locker held up with the 796 but I switched to the spool for the new 1000+ build.
If you want to ever do anything but spin your tires in a smoke show, you are going to have to dial in your suspension and for this level of power, you need an anit roll bar, good shocks and good Upper and lower CA's, panhard bar, and girdle at the very least - and that's to get you started. After, you'll have to play with the front suspension to get your weight transfer adequate.
Now you are ready to put your new found power to the ground.
Now the hard part comes if you want it to be a daily driver on top...
For this - cooling is the priority. You are going to need a larger radiator, a 160º thermostat, have your fans wired all the time, upgrade your tranny cooler to dual with fan packs, or a single fan pack with a diesel cooler after the rad. Depending on your choice of FI (you said procharger) - If that is the case, quite frankly you are screwed because it is air to air cooled and the day you run into 80º+ weather - you are going to see a head gasket first hand sure as shxt.
I'll tell you right now there is NO WAY to have a reliable 700+ Daily Driver air cooled power system on your car unless you are only going to drive it in the cold. If your hell bent on the procharger, then I would talk to Justin Burcham at JPC and get him to make you a front mount water cooler conversion for the procharger. Add a huge resevoir in the trunk and now we are in business.
Now the trouble is you are going to have a literal sea of wires supporting all your crap now and the stock fuse block is not going to like it. You are going to have to re-wire the majority of your car and create an additional block and relays ran straight to the battery to support 1/2 a dozen of your mods.
That should do it and I'm not trying to 'scare' you away from it cause it is certainly bad *** to have this kind of power in a street car - but if anyone tells you it's 'easy' - they don't know what they are talking about.
I would not even attempt it with any shop that hasn't already done it on someone else's car. Once you start really looking around, you're going to find it is a very short list indeed...
Your best bet is to follow everyone else who has done it besides me and that is to NOT run that power on the street. The only other guys who have built that kind of power on a street car run around 550 on the street and only run the 700+ at the track.
BTW: it took me 3 motors and 4 different power adders to figure out how to do it...lol
To my knowledge, I think I am the only person who has built a reliable street daily car to push over 700 rwhp. (796 to be exact)
Here's the main thing - if it is going to be a primarily strip car and only see the street once in awhile for short cruises, then it is a heck of a lot easier.
Making the power is fairly easy, managing it and controlling temps is the hard part.
If it's a strip car, you basically just need an upgraded fuel system - lines, rails, injectors, etc. I'm not talking about a BAP or even the GT500 set-up for that level - I'm talking a custom return system or at the very least, the lethal performance triple pump set-up or drop in return triple pump unit. Your stock coils are fine but you will need a spark-a-boost. You don't 'need' to have your heads ported but an upgraded valve train is mandatory and make sure they use bronze guides and 1mm oversize inconel valves and proper seats, springs, etc. There is a lot more to the valve train than many of the vendors are pedaling IMO.
To make 700 to the tires means quite a bit more to the flywheel so not any run of the mill built short block is going to do. Buy one of the off the shelf kits and you will be kissing it by-by pretty soon. With that level of power on a 4.6 base block, you are going to need something stronger than the average pistons, rods, studs, etc. Your going to want 'high boost' pistons cause it is going to take a lot of boost to make that power. High boost = a specific dome design and thicker rings to handle it. Diamond pistons are probably your best bet. You're also going to want to take a close look at your rod ratio and make sure it is adequate for how you are going to twist the car. Personally, I would make sure your main bearings and everything involved in the block is built for big power. Otherwise, you are on borrowed time. You are also going to need a much bigger meter and a tuner who knows what he is doing.
Now, this new found power is going to shred your stock rear end in quick fashion. Forget about the 5r55 and any upgraded 'kits' for it. Forget the stock manual garbage and for that level of power, I'd skip any manual altogether cause you are going to burn through clutches regardless of what you put in there. Your stock diff is toast - as is a tru trak at those levels, so you will need a locker or spool. If you don't want to splurge for a 9" - you are going to have to put 9" ends on your 8.8 and run aftermarket axles at the very least. This is what I have on my car with 35 spline gun drilled axels and a 3650 upgraded yoke. I also run a spool but the locker held up with the 796 but I switched to the spool for the new 1000+ build.
If you want to ever do anything but spin your tires in a smoke show, you are going to have to dial in your suspension and for this level of power, you need an anit roll bar, good shocks and good Upper and lower CA's, panhard bar, and girdle at the very least - and that's to get you started. After, you'll have to play with the front suspension to get your weight transfer adequate.
Now you are ready to put your new found power to the ground.
Now the hard part comes if you want it to be a daily driver on top...
For this - cooling is the priority. You are going to need a larger radiator, a 160º thermostat, have your fans wired all the time, upgrade your tranny cooler to dual with fan packs, or a single fan pack with a diesel cooler after the rad. Depending on your choice of FI (you said procharger) - If that is the case, quite frankly you are screwed because it is air to air cooled and the day you run into 80º+ weather - you are going to see a head gasket first hand sure as shxt.
I'll tell you right now there is NO WAY to have a reliable 700+ Daily Driver air cooled power system on your car unless you are only going to drive it in the cold. If your hell bent on the procharger, then I would talk to Justin Burcham at JPC and get him to make you a front mount water cooler conversion for the procharger. Add a huge resevoir in the trunk and now we are in business.
Now the trouble is you are going to have a literal sea of wires supporting all your crap now and the stock fuse block is not going to like it. You are going to have to re-wire the majority of your car and create an additional block and relays ran straight to the battery to support 1/2 a dozen of your mods.
That should do it and I'm not trying to 'scare' you away from it cause it is certainly bad *** to have this kind of power in a street car - but if anyone tells you it's 'easy' - they don't know what they are talking about.
I would not even attempt it with any shop that hasn't already done it on someone else's car. Once you start really looking around, you're going to find it is a very short list indeed...
Your best bet is to follow everyone else who has done it besides me and that is to NOT run that power on the street. The only other guys who have built that kind of power on a street car run around 550 on the street and only run the 700+ at the track.
BTW: it took me 3 motors and 4 different power adders to figure out how to do it...lol
Last edited by modaddict; 04-08-2009 at 04:08 PM.
04-08-2009, 03:42 PM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,699
your gonna need ported heads for sure if you want to be on pump gas, don't forget about spark also, you might start experiencing some blow out, so upgraded coilpacks. And unless all your going to be doing is roll racing, than your gonna need a transmission for the strip...
There just aren't enough cubes to work with and you have to make big boost to do it and with big boost comes big compression and with big compression - comes the need for higher octane.
Forget roll racing, at 700 his trans and rear won't make it far off the dyno...
Last edited by modaddict; 04-08-2009 at 04:12 PM.
04-08-2009, 04:05 PM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,699
