pascal

Tylus,
Double check the tightness of the handle after a few weeks...
It's prone to work itself loose and rattle like mad.
The hardware provided is on the cheap side (especially them washers) and you really need to crank hard on those 2 bolts.

MELLOWYELLOW06

Use a little blue locktite and it will help you out from loosening up.

Margarita Girl

I've had the Hurst for 3 years. Shift from 2nd to 3rd with confidence!

pascal

Joe, I hate to put locktite on my car though, except on the flywheel lol.
I use longer bolts on the Hurst, so I can put a jam nut on the other side.
The use of copper washers are a good help as well.

Tylus

the handle has 2 screws that threaded through the shifter "nub" and the handle and protruded about 1/2"...then it had 2 lockwashers and 2 nuts.

it's on there pretty tight for now...but yeah I will be checking up on it.


I plan on ordering a whole new poly bushing set. when I get it and some new LCA's I have my eyes on, I'll do blue loctite and swap the bushings out while I have the car on a lift for the LCA's

GreenBully

I'm in the middle of installing this Hurst and I'm stuck at this point and need some help. I got the stock shifter out and all the bushings changed over to the Hurst. Now I'm trying to get it back in but having no luck. Does anyone remember the secret combination of twist and turns? I'v got the billet comp model. I'm not sure, I should try to get the rear mount through the hole and not the shift arm, right? I wonder if it would hurt to cut a 1/4" off the rear.

Tylus

have the shifter stripped down so it only has the red poly bushings and nothing else installed

then feed the front end inside the hole and to the right side of the tranny.

about 1 foot forward of the hole, there is a **** on the tranny itself that sticks out 1-2" behind the bolt-hole for the front of the shifter. you have to feed the shifter up and over that ****.


once the front of the shifter clears that ****, the shifter will essentially fall right into place






on a side note, make sure you use only the red poly bushings. do not use the black rubber stock parts. the rubber will flex and not gain you anything. the poly parts will noticeably firm up the shift firmness.


also, your car might have the drive tunnel crap if you are unlucky. if so, I highly suggest you cut a huge section of it out to ease the install process

GreenBully

Thanks Tylus, But I already got it all finished up. I went back out to the garage last night, right after I posted (midnight here in MO), and found the trick move to get it through the hole. The instructions mislead me.

And yes, mine has that sound/heat shield in the tunnel also. I didn't have to cut it out. Instead I wedged in some wood blocks to push it out of the way.

Hardest part of the job was working under the car with only inches of room and those huge exhaust pipes in my face.

C/S-ShAkeR

I have thought about changing mine out to the pro 5 also. But I got to thinking the other day. I have yet to miss third with the hurst so whats the point? lol Plus my buddy has the pro 5 in his stang and I really like the hurst alot better. Its taller so I can rest my arm on the armrest and reach the shifter perfectly. With the pro 5 it was kinda at a odd angle. But Im very picky so it may just be me lol

robs

I had a lot more luck loading it from under the car, rather than through the hole in the floor pan... There was enough room on the driver side of the tranny to snake it through...

I love the shifter (have trouble driving my wifes Wranger as it's like shifting with a broom stick )... I hate the *****... The one that came with it, the jam nut stuck down way too far, and it bothered the crap out of me.. I've got a T handle now... Once again, the damn jam nut has to stick down WAY too far and it's anoying... I did grind the lip smooth, but it still sucks...