so i plugged my bat into a charger and when everything comes on theres a thunking noise coming from the front and the anti-theft warning is going off. so what should i do?

 

Did your battery take the charge? What's the at-rest battery voltage before you try to start it? What's the voltage with the car idling? And what do you mean "when everything comes on..."? Thunking noise from the front? Do you mean it cranks over and starts? More info.

 

dude i know it sucks buying buying a battery, but if you need to charge the battery and it still does not work, just buy a new flipping battery. of course assuming that is the problem, the "thunking" nose is probably, of course i dont' know for sure without being there, the starter trying to turn over. but for more help you definately need to provide more details

 

When everything comes on i mean i can unlock the doors and the window goes down to shut the doors. Wont accept a charge. Batt is new

 

I have to say I am alittle confused. When you try to start the car, you hear a "thunking" noise and the car does not start...yet the power door locks and power windows work? I know that when my battery went out in my 2005, from sitting, my windows would not even drop down as I opened the doors to get in.

Since you said the battery is new, maybe take it out of the car and run it up to the place where you bought it and have it tested. That will start narrowing down things for you.

 

No no no. The batt doesnt have enough juice start the car, the gauges arent even turning. But if i open the door the window goes down a little so i can close the door and i can use my key fob to lock and unlock the doors.

 

Dont use the battery charger, have a friend jump the car, and let it sit for atleast 10-20 mintues, let the alternator do its job.

 

10-20 minutes? Even a dead battery capable of recharging would take hours to fully charge from the cars HEALTHY alternator.

You need to have your battery tested first. If the battery tests good, then have the alternator tested. If the battery is bad, not much else to say. Even with a cell or 2 bad, a battery's voltage is high enough to operate some of the electronics but incapable of providing enough current to crank the starter.

 

+1 at a cruising rpm range as well....

Idle produces almost no charge current.
Alternators do the job at higher revs than idle.
Jumping is no good for the modern S197s electronic
based wiring scheme. Might as well play the lottery.
Maybe the old toronado or older truck but not
the newer more sofisticated vehicles.

Invest in a good ol iron core charger and not
one of those newer stupid 'wont charge it if
its below 11 volts' switching power supply
'smart' battery chargers.
A basic 120V to 14V iron core transformer and
some diodes will put a charge into a battery
independent of the battery voltage.
The newer 'smart' stupid chargers see an
unusual low voltage and will not produce
a charge but state that the battery is no-good.

Get a good VOM and check the off voltage and
the running voltage to see if the alternator is
producing any amperage.
Cant start the S197, get a new battery and then
check the off and running voltages.

 

MotorWeek had an episode that said pretty much the same thing--except for a jumper cable made by Michelin. This has some electronic gizmo that supposedly protects from damaging either the car giving the jump start or the one receiving the jump start. The trouble is, it's only ten feet long. With 8 gauge wire, I guess that's about as long as you can go and still have adequate voltage delivered to the "dead" battery. Not exactly what you might need in an emergency situation.

If you do use a regular jumper cable, remember to turn the heater on to damp some of the spikes.