It will be powered when the key is on. For the light do has was stated above just make sure that the dimmer adjust the voltage.

 

Fuse 13 is switched power when the ignition is on. So if you hook your gauges up to that, the light will always be on when the car is on. It sort of depends on what kind of gauges we're talking about here though.

On a mechanical boost gauge, the only thing the power wire is doing is controlling the light. For this, I'd just tap it right into the wire on the back of the car's light switch. Just shove the gauge's power wire into the back of the connector at each point and flip the switch until you find the right one, then splice it in. This will make the dimmer work too. It is also close in proximity to the pillar, so pretty easy to do. Once I found the proper wire, I just shaved away about 1/4" worth of coating with an exacto knife carefully, wrapped my gauge's power wire around it a few times, and taped it up tightly with electrical tape.

I have my AEM wideband gauge powered by fuse #13. That is because I want that thing always on when the car is on. Its digital...

 

Thanks buddy, I may take a look in an hour or so and make a start! Hopefully I won't be back with tears and kicking up a tantrum because I "fluffed" it up!! LOL

 

heh, you'll be fine. Just pop out the switch panel gently with a screwdriver or other device, and look at the connector on the back. Position your gauge where you can see the face, then stick the power wire into one of the holes on the connector so it makes contact, then turn the light switch on for a moment. Eventually you'll find one that only lights it up when the switch is on. Then test the dimmer and you should see that work too...

 

OK, so I need to pull the OEM A-pillar. I bought this pod from a fellow member and it didn't come with the locking pins. Can I get them from Autometer or some other source?

 

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessories.aspx?sid=48

these are what you want

just a christmas tree type fastener

 

Okay I have a question.... I need to run wiring for 2 gauges that everyone keeps telling me for the lighting to splice into the dimmer switch in the headlight switch housing. I also read that if you want to add neons or cathodes to wire into the same place. Is it okay to keep splicing into this wire?

I'm confused!

 

I realize this thread is a few months old now but I just had to chime in and say thanks! I have my gauges all wired up and ready to go now! The interior light dimmer was a huge help! An odd note though, fuse 13 for me wasn't powered at all on my car. Didn't matter if my key was on or off, car running or not. So I just hooked up the add-a-circuit to 16, which was marked as cluster. It's a switched source and technically along the lines of the gauges anyway so what the heck... So now I have a boost/vac gauge and a fuel pressure gauge, now I just have to wait until this weekend to install my new Kenne Bell! It's agony waiting though!


To try to answer your question, all you would have to worry about is exceeding the amperage rating of the wire...and the fuse powering the wire. And as far as wiring neons or cathodes, are you talking about interior neons and cathodes? And if so, I don't know how wise that would be, since they pull a little more current than a simple gauge bulb.

On a side note, I noticed we're both in MD, so if you ever want a hand in anything with your car or just want to get together and talk shop drop me a line!

-Sam