best lowering springs
#33
where to buy dampers? Best option? and how much do they cost? Should I also plan on doing shocks/struts, or will the stock ones work ok.....
As of now, I plan on doing 18" wheels, eibach prokit, dampers, camber bolts and then IF NEEDED, panhard bar.
As of now, I plan on doing 18" wheels, eibach prokit, dampers, camber bolts and then IF NEEDED, panhard bar.
#34
I would at least do the front springs and struts together and quite possibly the camber bolts. Since you have to pull the same things apart to do either and some fasteners are "one-time use" - you might as well do it (and the alignment check/adjustment) just once. Or only pay once to get it done.
Personally, I'd trust camber plates or other strut top adjustment capability to adjust camber over most camber bolt designs.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 12-21-2009 at 06:34 AM.
#35
yeah thanks. realized that after posting. i really havent done any suspension research before now and i guess id never heard of the shocks referred to as dampers.
The only thing about camber plates is that they are $100 more than bolts.
What is a quality, inexpensive shock/strut package to go with the eibach pro kit? Anyone else using the prokit on stock shocks/struts?
The only thing about camber plates is that they are $100 more than bolts.
What is a quality, inexpensive shock/strut package to go with the eibach pro kit? Anyone else using the prokit on stock shocks/struts?
#36
stangfreak2 There can be a lot of "what if" questions. Here is what I reccomend you do.
First do the springs, then see if the panhard bar is necessary. Mine was only 1/4" off center using Eibach Pro springs so I'm not using an adjustable bar cause my tire wear is good (rear tires are good, front is a different story)and the car goes straight.
SecondKeep an eye on your front tire wear too. I'm still using stock struts and shocks and had neg camber wear up front. Then I had it aligned and was able to get it back in spec without camber plate or bolts.
Remember each car is a little different, mostly in the suspension department. Play it by ear and see what your car needs when you really need it. If money is no object then go ahead and spend it. It won't mean you will always win races.
First do the springs, then see if the panhard bar is necessary. Mine was only 1/4" off center using Eibach Pro springs so I'm not using an adjustable bar cause my tire wear is good (rear tires are good, front is a different story)and the car goes straight.
SecondKeep an eye on your front tire wear too. I'm still using stock struts and shocks and had neg camber wear up front. Then I had it aligned and was able to get it back in spec without camber plate or bolts.
Remember each car is a little different, mostly in the suspension department. Play it by ear and see what your car needs when you really need it. If money is no object then go ahead and spend it. It won't mean you will always win races.
#37
All you NEED when replacing the springs is the camber bolts (maybe).
You dont need a parhard bar but its def recommended. You might also just want to do shocks at the same time. Then also get the lower control arms and relocation brackets for better launches.
The reason I like the pro-kit is because first of all ford racing chose it as a spring and I trust they know whats best for handling. Second because it is a progressive spring so you dont get as harsh of a ride. Third because it lower the car just enough to make it look totally awesome. I get compliments on how my car rides all the time by family members.
Either way, its up to you but I strongly recommend the pro kit.
Also, make sure you get it aligned shortly after lowering it. Maybe a few days but dont go over a week.
You dont need a parhard bar but its def recommended. You might also just want to do shocks at the same time. Then also get the lower control arms and relocation brackets for better launches.
The reason I like the pro-kit is because first of all ford racing chose it as a spring and I trust they know whats best for handling. Second because it is a progressive spring so you dont get as harsh of a ride. Third because it lower the car just enough to make it look totally awesome. I get compliments on how my car rides all the time by family members.
Either way, its up to you but I strongly recommend the pro kit.
Also, make sure you get it aligned shortly after lowering it. Maybe a few days but dont go over a week.
#38
I prefer camber plates over camber bolts. Some bolts require you to elongate the lower mounting holes in your struts. Others I've seen are only torqued down to about half of what a strut to spindle bolt requires. The bolts are certainly way cheaper than the plates, but I'd rather not compromise on the structural integrity of the parts that hold my front wheels in place.
#39
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 12-22-2009 at 02:13 PM.
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