Notices
2005-2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

best lowering springs

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-20-2009, 03:09 PM
  #31  
stangfreak2
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
stangfreak2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 189
Default

What about new dampers with the prokit? Necessary?
stangfreak2 is offline  
Old 12-20-2009, 06:10 PM
  #32  
Norm Peterson
6th Gear Member
 
Norm Peterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Default

Certainly preferable, but not absolutely required. Crystal ball sees upgraded dampers in car's future, though.


Norm
Norm Peterson is offline  
Old 12-20-2009, 08:48 PM
  #33  
stangfreak2
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
stangfreak2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 189
Default

where to buy dampers? Best option? and how much do they cost? Should I also plan on doing shocks/struts, or will the stock ones work ok.....

As of now, I plan on doing 18" wheels, eibach prokit, dampers, camber bolts and then IF NEEDED, panhard bar.
stangfreak2 is offline  
Old 12-21-2009, 06:23 AM
  #34  
Norm Peterson
6th Gear Member
 
Norm Peterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Default

Originally Posted by stangfreak2
where to buy dampers? Best option? and how much do they cost? Should I also plan on doing shocks/struts, or will the stock ones work ok.....

As of now, I plan on doing 18" wheels, eibach prokit, dampers, camber bolts and then IF NEEDED, panhard bar.
Shocks and struts ARE the dampers (what shocks and struts actually do is damp out spring oscillations/bouncing). Sometimes I use only one word instead of two or three . . . or too many.

I would at least do the front springs and struts together and quite possibly the camber bolts. Since you have to pull the same things apart to do either and some fasteners are "one-time use" - you might as well do it (and the alignment check/adjustment) just once. Or only pay once to get it done.

Personally, I'd trust camber plates or other strut top adjustment capability to adjust camber over most camber bolt designs.


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; 12-21-2009 at 06:34 AM.
Norm Peterson is offline  
Old 12-21-2009, 07:41 AM
  #35  
stangfreak2
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
stangfreak2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 189
Default

yeah thanks. realized that after posting. i really havent done any suspension research before now and i guess id never heard of the shocks referred to as dampers.

The only thing about camber plates is that they are $100 more than bolts.

What is a quality, inexpensive shock/strut package to go with the eibach pro kit? Anyone else using the prokit on stock shocks/struts?
stangfreak2 is offline  
Old 12-22-2009, 10:14 AM
  #36  
GT08FastPony
 
GT08FastPony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: WA
Posts: 24
Default

stangfreak2 There can be a lot of "what if" questions. Here is what I reccomend you do.

First do the springs, then see if the panhard bar is necessary. Mine was only 1/4" off center using Eibach Pro springs so I'm not using an adjustable bar cause my tire wear is good (rear tires are good, front is a different story)and the car goes straight.

SecondKeep an eye on your front tire wear too. I'm still using stock struts and shocks and had neg camber wear up front. Then I had it aligned and was able to get it back in spec without camber plate or bolts.

Remember each car is a little different, mostly in the suspension department. Play it by ear and see what your car needs when you really need it. If money is no object then go ahead and spend it. It won't mean you will always win races.
GT08FastPony is offline  
Old 12-22-2009, 11:17 AM
  #37  
avengence
3rd Gear Member
 
avengence's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 734
Default

All you NEED when replacing the springs is the camber bolts (maybe).

You dont need a parhard bar but its def recommended. You might also just want to do shocks at the same time. Then also get the lower control arms and relocation brackets for better launches.

The reason I like the pro-kit is because first of all ford racing chose it as a spring and I trust they know whats best for handling. Second because it is a progressive spring so you dont get as harsh of a ride. Third because it lower the car just enough to make it look totally awesome. I get compliments on how my car rides all the time by family members.

Either way, its up to you but I strongly recommend the pro kit.

Also, make sure you get it aligned shortly after lowering it. Maybe a few days but dont go over a week.
avengence is offline  
Old 12-22-2009, 12:23 PM
  #38  
6-Speed
2nd Gear Member
 
6-Speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 465
Default

I prefer camber plates over camber bolts. Some bolts require you to elongate the lower mounting holes in your struts. Others I've seen are only torqued down to about half of what a strut to spindle bolt requires. The bolts are certainly way cheaper than the plates, but I'd rather not compromise on the structural integrity of the parts that hold my front wheels in place.
6-Speed is offline  
Old 12-22-2009, 02:06 PM
  #39  
Norm Peterson
6th Gear Member
 
Norm Peterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Default

Originally Posted by 6-Speed
Others I've seen are only torqued down to about half of what a strut to spindle bolt requires.
Which can be a rather bad idea for cars driven all the way to their limits. Particularly, as it seems, earlier S197's driven in competition.


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; 12-22-2009 at 02:13 PM.
Norm Peterson is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lincolnshibuya
V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs
4
07-05-2020 03:05 AM
CS2007
General Tech
8
06-25-2019 09:45 PM
UrS4
S197 Handling Section
10
10-03-2015 06:23 AM
mungodrums
S550 2015-2023 Mustang
10
09-28-2015 10:54 PM



Quick Reply: best lowering springs



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:32 PM.