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just change out the rods for built bottom end??

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Old 12-27-2009, 12:58 AM
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cummins cowboy
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Default just change out the rods for built bottom end??

I have heard it said that the rods are the weakest link in our engines when running big FI HP, I was wondering what if just the rods where changed out with forged units and better yet is it possible to just drop the oil pan and change out the rods without even pulling out the engine??
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Old 12-27-2009, 12:07 PM
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hammeron
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you planning to go big FI cummins?

lots of talk about forged parts lately and
i think the consensus would be that if
you are going to do rods, you may as well
do the pistons while you are at it. it's also
important to end up with a balanced rotating
assembly, when it's all said and done.
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Old 12-27-2009, 12:41 PM
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cobra443
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+1^ very important to make sure its balanced. Otherwise you'll be running into all kinds of extra work to do.
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Old 12-27-2009, 01:47 PM
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SirKnightTG
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Complete and balanced shortblock FTW. That's how I'd do it.
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Old 12-27-2009, 01:50 PM
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jz
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Originally Posted by cummins cowboy
I have heard it said that the rods are the weakest link in our engines when running big FI HP, I was wondering what if just the rods where changed out with forged units and better yet is it possible to just drop the oil pan and change out the rods without even pulling out the engine??

Changing just the rods is like changing your clothes but leaving the same pair of underware on.
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:05 PM
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BruceH
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Originally Posted by cummins cowboy
I have heard it said that the rods are the weakest link in our engines when running big FI HP, I was wondering what if just the rods where changed out with forged units and better yet is it possible to just drop the oil pan and change out the rods without even pulling out the engine??

That idea has been postulated before. Can't be done. You would never be able to access the wrist pins without pulling the piston too. The heads have to come off. Then there is the whole balance issue.
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Old 12-27-2009, 03:14 PM
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well i used to agree with that.....but now that
BruceH has come out with the ultimate budget
build, it would be throwing good money away
for nothing.

doing it bruce's way, a DIY'er can save anywhere
from say $1200-$2500.



Originally Posted by SirKnightTG

Complete and balanced shortblock FTW. That's how I'd do it.
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Old 12-27-2009, 04:10 PM
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cummins cowboy
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so doing it in the car is out, I can understand that the assembly needs to be balanced. however just a rod change still might not be a bad idea, if you change out the pistons the block needs to be bored, so you might as well do the whole shabang,

the thing I was thinking is once a certain power level is reached with our cars you start overpowering the rest of the car like the transmission in particular,

would forged rods get a motor to 575-600 RWHP safely?? because that is the point where you really start overpowering the trans etc.
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Old 12-27-2009, 05:15 PM
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jz
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Originally Posted by cummins cowboy
so doing it in the car is out, I can understand that the assembly needs to be balanced. however just a rod change still might not be a bad idea, if you change out the pistons the block needs to be bored, so you might as well do the whole shabang,

the thing I was thinking is once a certain power level is reached with our cars you start overpowering the rest of the car like the transmission in particular,

would forged rods get a motor to 575-600 RWHP safely?? because that is the point where you really start overpowering the trans etc.

Just removing and replacing the pistons does not require boring the block. So long as you still have a nice cross-hatch pattern in the cylinder walls there's no reason why a stock sized piston wouldn't work.

575-600 hp is only happening with FI, and yes forged internals would be more than capable of handling that power level.
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