Need some help on deciding which power adder...
#21
Whipple has one big advantage over the others. It comes with GT500 fuel pumps. They will be a must to hit the power you are seeking.
You might want to do a google search on twin screw blowers making the kind of power you want to get to. I know the KB and Whipple can do it, the TVS Edlebrock probably could too with the right supporting mods. It's alot easier and cheaper to follow someone elses build than to be a pioneer.
#22
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Camp Lejeune, North Carolina and Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Posts: 470
Hmmmm...The KB comes with Boost-a-fuel though...would that be sufficient??
Like I said, I still like the Whipple best so far. KB I know CAN put up those numbers, but it doesn't seem as common nor as published...
Off to do some more research.
As far as the cams, how much more HP over the Hot rods would you think I'd pick up with the Detroits or comp cam blower grinds?? Those ones do sound sick...I like the comps best though...bigger lobe...sounds mean
Like I said, I still like the Whipple best so far. KB I know CAN put up those numbers, but it doesn't seem as common nor as published...
Off to do some more research.
As far as the cams, how much more HP over the Hot rods would you think I'd pick up with the Detroits or comp cam blower grinds?? Those ones do sound sick...I like the comps best though...bigger lobe...sounds mean
#24
OP- I've beaten this horse to death in many threads, so I'll just say that for your power goals and other wants, I think the Whipple HO is your best bet. Other setups will get you there, but I feel the Whipple is the most complete kit to get you there with the least amount of headaches (especially when you consider that the GT500 fuel system is included in the price).
#26
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Camp Lejeune, North Carolina and Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Posts: 470
Yea, that wouldn't be that bad of an idea, but while I love the styling of the Shelby, i have other visual plans, and the shelby, well, i wouldn't be able to touch that car if I owned it!
#27
I'm looking to make 550+rwhp. My ideal goal is 650rwhp though
What do you want to do with 650 rwhp????? If your car is going to remain a street vehicle, 650 rear wheel is useless. If you are going to drag the car, 650 rear wheel is still useless without the obligatory major mods. In which case, you will need 2 budgets. One for modding and another for replacing/fixing all the crap that WILL break. At 650 useable rwhp, you are not modifying the car, you are doing a complete rebuild.
Forget about hp numbers. Your goals should be driven but how you want to use the car and not a number on a dynosheet.
What do you want to do with 650 rwhp????? If your car is going to remain a street vehicle, 650 rear wheel is useless. If you are going to drag the car, 650 rear wheel is still useless without the obligatory major mods. In which case, you will need 2 budgets. One for modding and another for replacing/fixing all the crap that WILL break. At 650 useable rwhp, you are not modifying the car, you are doing a complete rebuild.
Forget about hp numbers. Your goals should be driven but how you want to use the car and not a number on a dynosheet.
Last edited by forensicsteve; 07-30-2010 at 06:21 AM.
#28
I'm looking to make 550+rwhp. My ideal goal is 650rwhp though
What do you want to do with 650 rwhp????? If your car is going to remain a street vehicle, 650 rear wheel is useless. If you are going to drag the car, 650 rear wheel is still useless without the obligatory major mods. In which case, you will need 2 budgets. One for modding and another for replacing/fixing all the crap that WILL break. At 650 useable rwhp, you are not modifying the car, you are doing a complete rebuild.
Forget about hp numbers. Your goals should be driven but how you want to use the car and not a number on a dynosheet.
What do you want to do with 650 rwhp????? If your car is going to remain a street vehicle, 650 rear wheel is useless. If you are going to drag the car, 650 rear wheel is still useless without the obligatory major mods. In which case, you will need 2 budgets. One for modding and another for replacing/fixing all the crap that WILL break. At 650 useable rwhp, you are not modifying the car, you are doing a complete rebuild.
Forget about hp numbers. Your goals should be driven but how you want to use the car and not a number on a dynosheet.
Kinda what I was hinting at also in my first post? Just wondering, what are you going for, or where did you come up with wanting 650 rwhp? For most people when they talk about hitting a mark, expecialy on a car that hasnt been touched much yet, the goal would be 500 RWHP. With most off the shelf blower kits, or even brenspeed packages, you see the results most people post on here being like 420-480 RWHP. Trying to push that much and run it with any reliability will bring in other mods. I'm going to assume that you already got the fuel system with your kit. but here goes:
Blower kit able to produce that much hp 8k?
B302 3.5k
Upgraded transmission 4k
Clutch + Flywheel 700
Driveshaft rated to that much power 800
eaton rear end and moser axles 1060
That doesnt touch other asspects of the car like brakes, wheels, suspension to make it hook, or install. Lets not forget, with that kind of power most tracks wouldnt let you down the track without a cage either. (at least up here)
#29
#30
Speaking generally it isn't the complexity so much that makes things a bitch to do. IME, which is pretty limited so far, the main things that make working on cars suck is the fact that there is almost always some connector or bolt you have to fight with because you can't get to it (easily), you don't have the right tools, or the car is on jack stands and whatever you are doing is a real bastard to do from underneath on your back.
I like the DIY guys.
The Kenne Bell install wasn't bad at all.