Argonaut

What is your source of information for this statement? You may want "torque flex" but I certainly don't. If the car is too loose soften your rear bar or get stickier tires but for pete sake don't get bendy control arms. You read the craziest stuff on here.

Control arms are some of the simplest parts on the whole care. This isn't rocket science folks - any of the quality brands are just as good as another.

BWfVA

I am sorta out there on suspension mods because I really havent done any. My plan right now is to get the exterior and the suspension done and I am getting ready to graduate so when I find a job I going to throw money in the engine compartment. I have been planning on droping the car but not extreme. Just a bit more than stock. So should I go ahead and invest in adjustable ones. Also I was thinking about getting some sway bars but mine is a base 05, I know there is a couple of pieces besides the bars that I need where can I find those at

Mustangansta

Yes he mentioned the front bushings are mushy when he shook the front tires

Mustangansta

Yes he mentioned the front bushings are mushy when he shook the front tires

bigblue95z

Right but you won't need now control arms, just new bushings.

157dB

According to FORD, its replaced as an assembly...
Aftermarket polys are available for the front
'Reverse-L' control arm.

Get the BMRs ForTheWin.
They will compliment the konis and such you have up front...

BWfVA

So What is the diffference between adjustable and fixed LCA And UCA because I going to lower the car but not very far. So do I need to spend the extra cash

BWfVA

bump up

Norm Peterson

Adjustable-length control arms allow you to tune or tweak either your pinion angle or the axle's thrust angle. Being able to adjust those angles means that you can't just bolt them on without checking that the lengths are at least somewhere near right, and possibly making a few measurements afterward so that you can put them right if they aren't.

An adjustable upper can adjust pinion angle only. Adjustable lowers can adjust pinion angle, thrust angle, or both.

On-car adjustable LCAs with all poly bushings would most likely be a poor choice for anything short of a mostly dragstrip toy, as they will tend to keep loosening up in daily use.


BTW, it still isn't clear whether you're mostly after straight line performance and wheel hop elimination or cornering performance and near-the-limit handling.


Argo - given the use of plain, cheapie cylindrical-bushing poly stuff, a little torsional flexibility in the arms themselves is actually a good idea where cornering is concerned. Actual control arm twist and torsional shear stresses shouldn't be a problem until you're about to pull the LF tire on launch. Swap one poly bushing per arm for a spherical joint and this all becomes moot.

As you note, one could tinker with the rear bar or its setting to end up with similar overall results. But in general I'd rather leave the anti-roll function to the real sta-bar and let the control arms simply locate the axle.


Norm

Hamhole

I had my 2010 GT lowered last summer with Eibach Pro Street-S coilovers. I also went with Hotchkis front and rear sway bars and adjustable Panhard rod.

Dropping the car about 2+" with this setup created bumpsteer and wheel hop problems. On a lift, I could clearly see the rear end problem: my LCAs were far from parallel with the ground. They were angled up quite a bit at the axle location with respect to the body mount point. The force of acceleration was driving the body down and the axle up, creating wheel hop.

Just the other day, I added a Steeda bumpsteer kit and Competition Engineering adjustable LCA with Lakewood relocation brackets. Bumpsteer gone. Wheel hop gone. Car takes off great now and is very solid.