Need water leak advice.
04-27-2011, 11:48 AM
#1
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,398
Need water leak advice.
Hey everyone, sorry to beat up this topic. For those of you that have had this issue was it resolved the first time, or second, third, etc? How many times does it have to happen until we can seek further legal advice?
Some background information. The car is a 2006 Mustang GT, made in Sep 2005 and purchased in Nov 2005. Until recently it has been leak free. Car was initially purchased new in NJ. Car has lived in NJ, FL, and GA... and no leaks. Since moving to KY it has started leaking. Took it to the local dealership and was charged $550 dollars, plus $60 for a 2 day rental car. Next rainstorm it started leaking. Took it back first thing and they said they solved it, next rain storm leaked again and same deal. Now I'm on the fourth trip to the dealership and it's becoming an obvious hassle. Not only did I pay out of pocket because I no longer have a warranty but it seems they fixed nothing, and each trip to the dealership to "refix" nothing, is costing more money in gas and time. Luckily they have supplied me with a loaner vehicle after the first incident, which I think it warrants that... but what can I do?
Worried about mildew, rust, damage to any electronics as we all know the SJB is located in the passenger side... Just looking for some advice, spoke with the manager of the service dept, and now requesting to speak to the general manager. I don't think this is going to do much but make them aware of the severity, but any other options would be appreciated. Thanks fellas.
Some background information. The car is a 2006 Mustang GT, made in Sep 2005 and purchased in Nov 2005. Until recently it has been leak free. Car was initially purchased new in NJ. Car has lived in NJ, FL, and GA... and no leaks. Since moving to KY it has started leaking. Took it to the local dealership and was charged $550 dollars, plus $60 for a 2 day rental car. Next rainstorm it started leaking. Took it back first thing and they said they solved it, next rain storm leaked again and same deal. Now I'm on the fourth trip to the dealership and it's becoming an obvious hassle. Not only did I pay out of pocket because I no longer have a warranty but it seems they fixed nothing, and each trip to the dealership to "refix" nothing, is costing more money in gas and time. Luckily they have supplied me with a loaner vehicle after the first incident, which I think it warrants that... but what can I do?
Worried about mildew, rust, damage to any electronics as we all know the SJB is located in the passenger side... Just looking for some advice, spoke with the manager of the service dept, and now requesting to speak to the general manager. I don't think this is going to do much but make them aware of the severity, but any other options would be appreciated. Thanks fellas.
04-27-2011, 12:02 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
To my knowledge, Ford has not and will not take any further action that the TSB and any warranty work performed.
Does the dealer even HAVE a copy of the TSB? Is he aware of it? It's pretty specific on what to do to make the "fix".
Does the dealer even HAVE a copy of the TSB? Is he aware of it? It's pretty specific on what to do to make the "fix".
04-27-2011, 02:00 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 303
Hello my friend I just resolved this issue. I had major water in my passenger side floor too. I started noticing it when my rear lights were on even though the car was turned off. My alarm was always chirping and going on and off all the time. All the gauges were going crazy and the computer kept saying “Check Charging System”. I soon discovered that the passenger side floor had about 2 liters’ of water, I kid you not. That is about half a gallon of water. I took all the carpets out and removed the passenger side seat. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you do that though. I shop vacuumed all the water out cause that’s the only way to get all the water out. I had to replace the under pad cause it was no longer good because it was drenched. Then I took out the SBJ and let it dry out.
The following are a few areas you should check to see if water is coming in.
1: Look at where the air filter cabin is located under the wiper cowel outside the car on the passenger side. Make sure the drain has no junk in it. That sometimes clogs which causes a water build up. All you have to do is put your finger in the bottom right hole and feel around and remove any debris in there which can cause a clogging. You might as well change the cabin filter while you’re at it since you’re already in the general area
2: Put sealant by the passenger side A-pillar between the plastic and actual metal cause water was entering from that area of my car as well. You have to remove the weather seal, and then remove the plastic using a torque wrench. I sealed the hec out of it so it became water tight. You might want to use black sealant since the plastic cover is black. This way it will match and not be obvious.
3: The worst issue was these plastic pieces that I needed that are under the wiper cowel. There are two plastic big pieces under the wipers. Remove both of them and you will have the firewall and sheet metal visible to you. Then you will see about then plastic retainers that are clipped onto the metal. Replace all ten of them. They go for about 6.50 each. I believe the part number is 9R3Z-63517C58-A. They are pricey, but trust me, you will need them and you can buy them from any Ford Dealer. Mine were all damaged especially the one that went on top of the SBJ, it was looser than a Tijuana hooker. Water was going straight onto the SBJ causing it to go crazy. When you remove them, if you see dirt under any of them, then you know water was getting through. I went above and beyond and put sealant around the edges once they clipped into place just incase.
Whatever you do, don’t buy a new SBJ off the hop. Dry out the one you have first. .Sometimes they dry out and they are good to go again. The dealer will try to hose you on a new one and they are not cheap brother. Around here, they are between 800-1200 each.
I hope this makes sense, if not; I can walk you through it because I would not wish anyone to go through what I had to. Also, most of the time, the dealer does not know their head from their A S S !!! They are in the business of replacing parts because it’s cheaper than diagnosing the problem. Unfortunately, that means the cost would be downloaded onto you.
The following are a few areas you should check to see if water is coming in.
1: Look at where the air filter cabin is located under the wiper cowel outside the car on the passenger side. Make sure the drain has no junk in it. That sometimes clogs which causes a water build up. All you have to do is put your finger in the bottom right hole and feel around and remove any debris in there which can cause a clogging. You might as well change the cabin filter while you’re at it since you’re already in the general area
2: Put sealant by the passenger side A-pillar between the plastic and actual metal cause water was entering from that area of my car as well. You have to remove the weather seal, and then remove the plastic using a torque wrench. I sealed the hec out of it so it became water tight. You might want to use black sealant since the plastic cover is black. This way it will match and not be obvious.
3: The worst issue was these plastic pieces that I needed that are under the wiper cowel. There are two plastic big pieces under the wipers. Remove both of them and you will have the firewall and sheet metal visible to you. Then you will see about then plastic retainers that are clipped onto the metal. Replace all ten of them. They go for about 6.50 each. I believe the part number is 9R3Z-63517C58-A. They are pricey, but trust me, you will need them and you can buy them from any Ford Dealer. Mine were all damaged especially the one that went on top of the SBJ, it was looser than a Tijuana hooker. Water was going straight onto the SBJ causing it to go crazy. When you remove them, if you see dirt under any of them, then you know water was getting through. I went above and beyond and put sealant around the edges once they clipped into place just incase.
Whatever you do, don’t buy a new SBJ off the hop. Dry out the one you have first. .Sometimes they dry out and they are good to go again. The dealer will try to hose you on a new one and they are not cheap brother. Around here, they are between 800-1200 each.
I hope this makes sense, if not; I can walk you through it because I would not wish anyone to go through what I had to. Also, most of the time, the dealer does not know their head from their A S S !!! They are in the business of replacing parts because it’s cheaper than diagnosing the problem. Unfortunately, that means the cost would be downloaded onto you.
04-27-2011, 07:06 PM
#5
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,398
According to the dealer they've performed the TSB, but they charged me for replacing like all the seals around the window but I don't think it was ever coming in from there. I talked to their general manager today and something he said stuck out like a sore spot... He said something along the lines of "some water leaks can't be fixed" ... That really irritated me. My car has never been in any kind of accident so it does not have any body damage or anything that could cause this problem. The problem is ford's ****ty design and it's quite annoying if Ford doesn't stand behind their products. At this point I don't care as long as it gets fixed, but is it reasonable to say if it still leaks I can demand a refund/reimbursement of costs? IE rental car fee, and even possible fuel costs from taking it back and forth 4 times? I'll also like to mention they dinged up my steering wheel the first time, and tried arguing with me that it was like that... I kinda pointed out the rest of my interior and was like. "It's nearly flawless, I would have noticed a few scuffs in the leather and some banged up aluminum trim prior to today" So they replaced it... apparently they also broke my e-brake when removing it to do something with the carpet. It's just really annoying.
04-27-2011, 08:30 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 303
My friend, I understand your frustration as I have been there. I recommend you take your car to a reputable body shop cause the dealer most of the time is only good for purchasing. The dealers here told me to pound salt and did not help me one bit.
The window sealant issue is a small one and you can do that yourself. Just punch it in you tube and you can find people that have done it and its really easy to follow the steps
The majority of the water problem comes from the other things I listed like the grommet retainer clips, and the cabin air filter bay. I am glad I fixed the problem because I hate water more than anything. It’s raining here like crazy tonight and we have a weather warning, so I’m hoping I don’t have any water in my car by tomorrow.
If you get stuck at any stage, I can help you out so you don’t make the same mistakes I made. Feel free to fire off any questions you have. In general, don’t waste your time with the dealer when fixing stuff because they won’t help you unless you are obliged. The dealers here were useless, but I hear elsewhere they were really helpful. I just can’t believe they charged you that much to put sealant on. It took me 30 minutes tops and 5 bucks worth of sealant. What a shame. You buy a product and they rape you with no lube when it comes to servicing. Capitalism 101 I guess
The window sealant issue is a small one and you can do that yourself. Just punch it in you tube and you can find people that have done it and its really easy to follow the steps
The majority of the water problem comes from the other things I listed like the grommet retainer clips, and the cabin air filter bay. I am glad I fixed the problem because I hate water more than anything. It’s raining here like crazy tonight and we have a weather warning, so I’m hoping I don’t have any water in my car by tomorrow.
If you get stuck at any stage, I can help you out so you don’t make the same mistakes I made. Feel free to fire off any questions you have. In general, don’t waste your time with the dealer when fixing stuff because they won’t help you unless you are obliged. The dealers here were useless, but I hear elsewhere they were really helpful. I just can’t believe they charged you that much to put sealant on. It took me 30 minutes tops and 5 bucks worth of sealant. What a shame. You buy a product and they rape you with no lube when it comes to servicing. Capitalism 101 I guess
04-28-2011, 04:21 PM
#7
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 109
jamaman, you seem pretty versed with this issue. I'm fighting it right now too. Mine is an 05' GT. I bought it a few months ago. I live in Oklahoma, and we've been dry as a popcorn fart for months now. We finally got some rain this week and the dreaded leak showed up. I noticed it after my radio started acting funky one morning. Anyway, I had already read up as much as I could, so I kind of knew what to look for and had sadly been expecting it to happen. I've already developed the habit of checking my drain plugs in the cowl for debris. Long story short, I pressurized my cabin today, and got major bubbles from the passenger side weatherstrip retainer towards the front. My question is how does it attach? I've ordered a new one from the stealership, so when it comes in tomorrow it'll probably be clear how it attaches. Just thought someone could school me beforehand.
04-28-2011, 05:02 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 303
Hey bud, the weather strip is the easiest part of the equation. All you have to do is pull off the weather strip while the door is open. You have to be gentle with it and remove the weather strip from one side of the door to the other side. Don’t get over zealous and make sure you take your time because you can tear it easy.
Then get a torque wrench and remove the screws from the black plastic piece behind the weather strip. There are about eight of them or so and two yellow clips that clip on. Once all is removed, I put a thick layer of sealant on the bare metal and let it dry. Don’t feel shy with the sealant either. Once the sealant is dry, put the black plastic piece back on and screw everything back in. It would be a good idea to use a sealant color that is compatible with your car. In other words, don’t use black sealant if your car is white. Use clear instead or transparent
Then inspect your weather-strip and see if it is damaged. Sometimes there is no damage and you don’t have to replace it. If it is good then put the weather strip back on and make sure it is tight. Then I took more of that sealant and put it in between the metal door frame and the black plastic piece. There is a thin seam and you can jack some sealant in there. Then smooth it out and wipe off the excess. A good trick is to have a cup of warm water with dish soap next to you. Once you apply the sealant in the mentioned, smooth it out with your bare finger after you dipped your hand in dish soap. This gives it an even level finish and makes it look professional. Wait till everything dries and re-pressurize the cabin and see what happens.
I hope this makes sense bro
Then get a torque wrench and remove the screws from the black plastic piece behind the weather strip. There are about eight of them or so and two yellow clips that clip on. Once all is removed, I put a thick layer of sealant on the bare metal and let it dry. Don’t feel shy with the sealant either. Once the sealant is dry, put the black plastic piece back on and screw everything back in. It would be a good idea to use a sealant color that is compatible with your car. In other words, don’t use black sealant if your car is white. Use clear instead or transparent
Then inspect your weather-strip and see if it is damaged. Sometimes there is no damage and you don’t have to replace it. If it is good then put the weather strip back on and make sure it is tight. Then I took more of that sealant and put it in between the metal door frame and the black plastic piece. There is a thin seam and you can jack some sealant in there. Then smooth it out and wipe off the excess. A good trick is to have a cup of warm water with dish soap next to you. Once you apply the sealant in the mentioned, smooth it out with your bare finger after you dipped your hand in dish soap. This gives it an even level finish and makes it look professional. Wait till everything dries and re-pressurize the cabin and see what happens.
I hope this makes sense bro
04-28-2011, 05:11 PM
#9
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 109
Thanks. Makes perfect since. I just wasn't sure if the retainer snapped into a channel or was attached with screws. That helps alot. I had the dealer order a new retainer and I'm debating on whether to install it or just seal up my old one like you did. I'm no stranger to sealer (journeyman plumber for 15 years) and it's application, but my car is white and I just don't want the stuff showing anywhere. I'm a little **** about her looks...
04-28-2011, 05:46 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 303
Im **** about looks too. I dont think you need a new one men. Just work with the one you have. The whole procedure takes about 30-45 mintues tops. You can use clear sealeant and you will be good. If i was you, i would check if the old one is good first. Keep the new one handy next to you just incase. If you dont need it, then just return it and get your money back from the dealer cause its new anyway. Let me know how it works. Good luck
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