Custom Subwoofer Box
Still contemplating on getting those fiberglass ones from ebay...
I looked into making my own out of fiberglass but well it looks waaaaay too messy for me to do haha...
Honestly I might just make my own this weekend from plywood and mdf...
I looked into making my own out of fiberglass but well it looks waaaaay too messy for me to do haha...
Honestly I might just make my own this weekend from plywood and mdf...
hey everyone. Im new here but i wanted to add some type of input. heres a link to a subwoofer enclosure for 2 10in or 12in subs. $149
http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/2204
http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/2204
I thought long and hard and decided to go ahead and build my own box... I already saved hundreds by installing my own radio and satellite and navi system might as well a couple hundred more and build my own unique box...
I started the task today and I am about 25% done... If anyone would like me to build them a box it will be $1million dollars cuz i refuse to go through this head ache again!! lol
the trunk is full of weird shapes and angles and its just a pain in the butt... But I must say so far I have used about $30 worth of materials which is a huge drop off from the $1000 that custom guy was gonna charge me...
This is a picture of what my box will look like when it is done haha...
[IMG] [/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/25429/A1DBF701C4A1401387E3B09822DEF175.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/25429/B40364D2CDCB46BB995C4BDC2217DCAE.jpg[/IMG]
I started the task today and I am about 25% done... If anyone would like me to build them a box it will be $1million dollars cuz i refuse to go through this head ache again!! lol
the trunk is full of weird shapes and angles and its just a pain in the butt... But I must say so far I have used about $30 worth of materials which is a huge drop off from the $1000 that custom guy was gonna charge me...
This is a picture of what my box will look like when it is done haha...
[IMG] [/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/25429/A1DBF701C4A1401387E3B09822DEF175.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/25429/B40364D2CDCB46BB995C4BDC2217DCAE.jpg[/IMG]
everything is all cut out... now what left to do is paint all the pieces and fit them together inside the trunk since the trunk opening is not so big... i will give my final update in a week when everything is dry and done
ORIGINAL: drtc
hey everyone. Im new here but i wanted to add some type of input. heres a link to a subwoofer enclosure for 2 10in or 12in subs. $149
http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/2204
hey everyone. Im new here but i wanted to add some type of input. heres a link to a subwoofer enclosure for 2 10in or 12in subs. $149
http://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/2204
a custom enclosure set on that hump in the trunk leaving much of the flat trunk available for stuff.
thaks for the link!
I suggest carefully researching what box you decide to use. The performance of your speakers is HIGHLY dependant on the dimensions of the box. A box that is properly sized to the EXACT sub(s) that you are using will always sound better than a generic box paired with some random speaker (even if it is a quality speaker) unless you get lucky and hit on a good match by chance. It's complete BS how companies advertise boxes and say "This box will fit any 10 or 12" sub". How the heck do they know that? The speaker might fit in the box, but that doesn't mean it will sound good. The ideal box for an Infinity Perfect 10 is very different than that of a Kicker Comp 10..etc...
Get yourself a book on speaker box construction. Radio Shack used to sell one for about $10. Yes, it's pretty basic, but it does cover standard sub enclosures and has all the equations you will need. Choose your sub(s). The sub will come with a data sheet that states all of the relevant parameters (T/S numbers) You use these numbers to calculate the volume of the box and the dimensions of the port(s) if you choose to make a ported box.
The main reason why a real professionally installed stereo sounds better than an amateur job is becasue they actually bother to calculate and then build the correct size box for the subs they use. A properly designed box with a single 10" sub and a 200-watt amp will outperform a generic box with two bigger speakers and an 800 watt amp every time. Also, take the time to make a STRONG box. I see boxes available all the time that are made of only 5/8" particle board with no internal bracing or sealing. I suggest a BARE MINIMUM of 3/4" MDF--preferably 1", with a heavily braced interior. All the joints should be carefully cut so there are no gaps. Gaps compromise strength and cause air leaks. Glue moulding or hardwood 1x1 inside all the seams to reenforce them, then, caulk all the joints from the inside. Take no chances with strength and sealing. A weak box will vibrate and flex, and that equates to bad sound.
Take the time to do it right and you'll be more than pleased.
Get yourself a book on speaker box construction. Radio Shack used to sell one for about $10. Yes, it's pretty basic, but it does cover standard sub enclosures and has all the equations you will need. Choose your sub(s). The sub will come with a data sheet that states all of the relevant parameters (T/S numbers) You use these numbers to calculate the volume of the box and the dimensions of the port(s) if you choose to make a ported box.
The main reason why a real professionally installed stereo sounds better than an amateur job is becasue they actually bother to calculate and then build the correct size box for the subs they use. A properly designed box with a single 10" sub and a 200-watt amp will outperform a generic box with two bigger speakers and an 800 watt amp every time. Also, take the time to make a STRONG box. I see boxes available all the time that are made of only 5/8" particle board with no internal bracing or sealing. I suggest a BARE MINIMUM of 3/4" MDF--preferably 1", with a heavily braced interior. All the joints should be carefully cut so there are no gaps. Gaps compromise strength and cause air leaks. Glue moulding or hardwood 1x1 inside all the seams to reenforce them, then, caulk all the joints from the inside. Take no chances with strength and sealing. A weak box will vibrate and flex, and that equates to bad sound.
Take the time to do it right and you'll be more than pleased.
+1 Great info Al. I have a 10" sub. I paired it with a Q-logic box specifically designed for my sub. It sounds great and I have a ton of room. I'll post pics later.
-E
-E
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
I suggest carefully researching what box you decide to use. The performance of your speakers is HIGHLY dependant on the dimensions of the box. A box that is properly sized to the EXACT sub(s) that you are using will always sound better than a generic box paired with some random speaker (even if it is a quality speaker) unless you get lucky and hit on a good match by chance. It's complete BS how companies advertise boxes and say "This box will fit any 10 or 12" sub". How the heck do they know that? The speaker might fit in the box, but that doesn't mean it will sound good. The ideal box for an Infinity Perfect 10 is very different than that of a Kicker Comp 10..etc...
Get yourself a book on speaker box construction. Radio Shack used to sell one for about $10. Yes, it's pretty basic, but it does cover standard sub enclosures and has all the equations you will need. Choose your sub(s). The sub will come with a data sheet that states all of the relevant parameters (T/S numbers) You use these numbers to calculate the volume of the box and the dimensions of the port(s) if you choose to make a ported box.
The main reason why a real professionally installed stereo sounds better than an amateur job is becasue they actually bother to calculate and then build the correct size box for the subs they use. A properly designed box with a single 10" sub and a 200-watt amp will outperform a generic box with two bigger speakers and an 800 watt amp every time. Also, take the time to make a STRONG box. I see boxes available all the time that are made of only 5/8" particle board with no internal bracing or sealing. I suggest a BARE MINIMUM of 3/4" MDF--preferably 1", with a heavily braced interior. All the joints should be carefully cut so there are no gaps. Gaps compromise strength and cause air leaks. Glue moulding or hardwood 1x1 inside all the seams to reenforce them, then, caulk all the joints from the inside. Take no chances with strength and sealing. A weak box will vibrate and flex, and that equates to bad sound.
Take the time to do it right and you'll be more than pleased.
I suggest carefully researching what box you decide to use. The performance of your speakers is HIGHLY dependant on the dimensions of the box. A box that is properly sized to the EXACT sub(s) that you are using will always sound better than a generic box paired with some random speaker (even if it is a quality speaker) unless you get lucky and hit on a good match by chance. It's complete BS how companies advertise boxes and say "This box will fit any 10 or 12" sub". How the heck do they know that? The speaker might fit in the box, but that doesn't mean it will sound good. The ideal box for an Infinity Perfect 10 is very different than that of a Kicker Comp 10..etc...
Get yourself a book on speaker box construction. Radio Shack used to sell one for about $10. Yes, it's pretty basic, but it does cover standard sub enclosures and has all the equations you will need. Choose your sub(s). The sub will come with a data sheet that states all of the relevant parameters (T/S numbers) You use these numbers to calculate the volume of the box and the dimensions of the port(s) if you choose to make a ported box.
The main reason why a real professionally installed stereo sounds better than an amateur job is becasue they actually bother to calculate and then build the correct size box for the subs they use. A properly designed box with a single 10" sub and a 200-watt amp will outperform a generic box with two bigger speakers and an 800 watt amp every time. Also, take the time to make a STRONG box. I see boxes available all the time that are made of only 5/8" particle board with no internal bracing or sealing. I suggest a BARE MINIMUM of 3/4" MDF--preferably 1", with a heavily braced interior. All the joints should be carefully cut so there are no gaps. Gaps compromise strength and cause air leaks. Glue moulding or hardwood 1x1 inside all the seams to reenforce them, then, caulk all the joints from the inside. Take no chances with strength and sealing. A weak box will vibrate and flex, and that equates to bad sound.
Take the time to do it right and you'll be more than pleased.
ORIGINAL: Beholdthecow
I have been looking into adding a couple subwoofers to my 2005 V6 Mustang, but am having trouble deciding where to put them. The trunk already is not very big, so I dont want to take away too much space, or get in the way of the fold down seats if I can help it. I ran accross this custom designed box by Scosche, but wanted to know if anyone has tried this, or if it is a good buy.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cjjBNZo...142FDMUS5U#Tab
Also, it only fits the passenger side, and I cant find a matching one for the drivers side... what can I say I like things symmetrical. Anyway, is this something that is worth buying, or is there a better option for adding 1-2 subwoofers to my car?
While I'm at it, how many watts do you think I need? I'm not looking to win any contests, just add a nice boost to my system, and maybe turn a few heads sometimes. I was thinking around 400 per woofer, is that enough? Thanks in advance.
I have been looking into adding a couple subwoofers to my 2005 V6 Mustang, but am having trouble deciding where to put them. The trunk already is not very big, so I dont want to take away too much space, or get in the way of the fold down seats if I can help it. I ran accross this custom designed box by Scosche, but wanted to know if anyone has tried this, or if it is a good buy.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cjjBNZo...142FDMUS5U#Tab
Also, it only fits the passenger side, and I cant find a matching one for the drivers side... what can I say I like things symmetrical. Anyway, is this something that is worth buying, or is there a better option for adding 1-2 subwoofers to my car?
While I'm at it, how many watts do you think I need? I'm not looking to win any contests, just add a nice boost to my system, and maybe turn a few heads sometimes. I was thinking around 400 per woofer, is that enough? Thanks in advance.
that's the one I got and I COULDN'T be happier with it - ENOUGH 'thump' for
my taste and you DON'T have to sacrifice the space in the trunk - it REALLY
fits snug into the side !
I run it on a 500W Memphis audio amp and I gotta say the sound is AWESOME !
Here a few pics - hope this helps







