Custom Subwoofer Box
#31
RE: Custom Subwoofer Box
Anyone have the dimensions to their box they have? I think I want to build one, but not sure what dimensions to use, since their is that weird hump in the back of the trunk floor.
#32
RE: Custom Subwoofer Box
I know this is a very old thread, but I figured I would post my experience in case anyone was looking through it.
I ended up getting the same box DUSTI has (one page 1), but I got mine without a sub installed. I put in a Sony Xplod (I know... but the price was too good to pass up) 1000w sub, and mounted the amp to the back of the right seat. I did the install myself, and it went pretty well overall. I ran the power line down the right side, under the door jam, up the plastic cover in the back and under the rear seats. I went through the firewall using an existing rubber boot that had an unused nipple on it. (You can find details and pic of this somewhere else on the boards). It is on the passenger side, and you can access it by removing the cover from the front wheel well. From there it went into the engine compartment and up to the battery. The lines from the radio I ran up the drivers side, to stop any interference from being too close to the power line. I even added an on/off switch for the amp and an output **** to my dash.
For the ground line, I used my ohmmeter to find a good connection in the trunk to the battery. I found an empty bolt hold in the trunk under the carpet, and simply bought a bolt to fit and ran the ground there. According to the meter, the resistance is negligable, and it was very easy to get to.
Installing the box itself was probably the hardest part. It comes carpeted to match the trunk (which is nice and looks good), but that makes getting a good seal between the box and the sub difficult. Also, since I had a Sony sub, which has a wider ring than other subs, it would not fit nicely into the recess in the box. I cleaned off the carpet where the sub would sit and used some caulking to make sure the seal was good. It took some time, but in the end it sealed up nice.
The box comes with a set ofinternal wires to connect the sub's power to the outside of the box. Make sure you tape them or something at both ends, as they are attached with rather loose clips, and mine actually fell off where they connect to the inside of the box. It was a pain to have to remove everything to put them back on, so save yourself the trouble up front.
The box is made to line up with the Shaker 1000 mounting points in the trunk, but I found the alignment to be sketchy at best. It took a bit of torquing and shifting to get things to line up correctly, but eventuallyeverything went together.The brackets they include are rather lightweight and bend pretty easy, making the alignment process a bit easier, but definately something that could be improved on.
Once everything was finished, the final product was great. The box and sub fit tightly and ride well, and it looks like it was made to fit in there. The amp rides well on the back of the seat, and the wires are under the carpet and out of site. From within the car, aside from the button and **** I added, you would never know anything was added. All wires are hidden completely and ride well. The sound from the box and sub is great, and I am impressed at how well the car managed to hold in the bass without any padding or anything. Inside the car, its deep and full, outside the car, its quiet with noannoying rattle or vibration(unless you open the trunk, then the neighbors complain ).
The amp, maybe just b/c its a Sony, gets pretty hot. At first I thought the amp might be bad, but after taking it to a professional he said it was normal, and to check the connections. I polished the ground bolt and added some electric grease to it, and that helped some. I am thinking about maybe finding some sort of buffer to put between the amp and the seat, just to help control the heat. Other than that, everything looks and sounds good.
Once again, I know this thread is old, but I hope this answers any questions anyone who is looking though this might have. I dont have any pics on this comp, but if someone wants them I could dig some up. Overall, It was a good buy, and I'm very happy with it. I would recommend getting a good quality amp and sub, and not skimping on the wiring either. It will cost a bit more up front, but it is worth it in the end.
I ended up getting the same box DUSTI has (one page 1), but I got mine without a sub installed. I put in a Sony Xplod (I know... but the price was too good to pass up) 1000w sub, and mounted the amp to the back of the right seat. I did the install myself, and it went pretty well overall. I ran the power line down the right side, under the door jam, up the plastic cover in the back and under the rear seats. I went through the firewall using an existing rubber boot that had an unused nipple on it. (You can find details and pic of this somewhere else on the boards). It is on the passenger side, and you can access it by removing the cover from the front wheel well. From there it went into the engine compartment and up to the battery. The lines from the radio I ran up the drivers side, to stop any interference from being too close to the power line. I even added an on/off switch for the amp and an output **** to my dash.
For the ground line, I used my ohmmeter to find a good connection in the trunk to the battery. I found an empty bolt hold in the trunk under the carpet, and simply bought a bolt to fit and ran the ground there. According to the meter, the resistance is negligable, and it was very easy to get to.
Installing the box itself was probably the hardest part. It comes carpeted to match the trunk (which is nice and looks good), but that makes getting a good seal between the box and the sub difficult. Also, since I had a Sony sub, which has a wider ring than other subs, it would not fit nicely into the recess in the box. I cleaned off the carpet where the sub would sit and used some caulking to make sure the seal was good. It took some time, but in the end it sealed up nice.
The box comes with a set ofinternal wires to connect the sub's power to the outside of the box. Make sure you tape them or something at both ends, as they are attached with rather loose clips, and mine actually fell off where they connect to the inside of the box. It was a pain to have to remove everything to put them back on, so save yourself the trouble up front.
The box is made to line up with the Shaker 1000 mounting points in the trunk, but I found the alignment to be sketchy at best. It took a bit of torquing and shifting to get things to line up correctly, but eventuallyeverything went together.The brackets they include are rather lightweight and bend pretty easy, making the alignment process a bit easier, but definately something that could be improved on.
Once everything was finished, the final product was great. The box and sub fit tightly and ride well, and it looks like it was made to fit in there. The amp rides well on the back of the seat, and the wires are under the carpet and out of site. From within the car, aside from the button and **** I added, you would never know anything was added. All wires are hidden completely and ride well. The sound from the box and sub is great, and I am impressed at how well the car managed to hold in the bass without any padding or anything. Inside the car, its deep and full, outside the car, its quiet with noannoying rattle or vibration(unless you open the trunk, then the neighbors complain ).
The amp, maybe just b/c its a Sony, gets pretty hot. At first I thought the amp might be bad, but after taking it to a professional he said it was normal, and to check the connections. I polished the ground bolt and added some electric grease to it, and that helped some. I am thinking about maybe finding some sort of buffer to put between the amp and the seat, just to help control the heat. Other than that, everything looks and sounds good.
Once again, I know this thread is old, but I hope this answers any questions anyone who is looking though this might have. I dont have any pics on this comp, but if someone wants them I could dig some up. Overall, It was a good buy, and I'm very happy with it. I would recommend getting a good quality amp and sub, and not skimping on the wiring either. It will cost a bit more up front, but it is worth it in the end.
#33
RE: Custom Subwoofer Box
I got a sub box for christmas kinda like the scosche, not sure if it is though. I never put it in. I have an old sub thats only 120w rms and i didnt feel like spending another 300 for the sub/amp. So I dont think I'm gonna install it.
#36
Thanks 2horsegarage, I never thought of that.
I found the box leenew was talking about on ebay, and now im torn between the original one I was looking at and the one he ordered... I'll put links to both of them below, so anyone who happens to have tried them your opinions are greatly appriciated. Let me know how the install goes and how much space the fiberglass box takes when you install it leenew. This is a tough decision...
How much better are 2 subs going to sound than just one?
Single Fitted Sub Box
Double Fiberglass box
I found the box leenew was talking about on ebay, and now im torn between the original one I was looking at and the one he ordered... I'll put links to both of them below, so anyone who happens to have tried them your opinions are greatly appriciated. Let me know how the install goes and how much space the fiberglass box takes when you install it leenew. This is a tough decision...
How much better are 2 subs going to sound than just one?
Single Fitted Sub Box
Double Fiberglass box
#37
Stop screwing around and get a JL Audio StealthBoxwith a 13.5" W6V2 subwoofer in it. It mounts in the
OEM subs location and does not eat up trunk space.
Bass is omni-directional so non-symetrical set-ups
dont effect the thump.
Stealthbox® custom-fit subwoofer
sealed fiberglass enclosure
W6v2 13.5" 4-ohm DVC subwoofer wired for 2-ohm mono
steel-mesh grille included
fits in the passenger side rear corner of the trunk
power handling: 250-750 watts RMS (1,500 watts peak power)
warranty: 2 years
OEM subs location and does not eat up trunk space.
Bass is omni-directional so non-symetrical set-ups
dont effect the thump.
Stealthbox® custom-fit subwoofer
sealed fiberglass enclosure
W6v2 13.5" 4-ohm DVC subwoofer wired for 2-ohm mono
steel-mesh grille included
fits in the passenger side rear corner of the trunk
power handling: 250-750 watts RMS (1,500 watts peak power)
warranty: 2 years
Last edited by 157dB; 09-20-2008 at 04:20 PM.
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