spyder_doo

I check it out but he doesn't have one listed that I can find. If you can find it could you link it to me.

Anyone else know of a place that sells the rotating assembly for the 393w, or where to buy the individual parts? I'm looking for a cast crank, forged pistons, 'H' rods, ect...

S351R13

He doesn't have one listed right now. Just watch his auctions. He had one there a week or so ago.

spyder_doo

alright I'm trying to get some information on a 393w with a .060 bore. I'm thinking that I can use the 393 crank, stock 351 rods and 302 pistons (.060) right? Will this clear the heads or will I have to do some grinding on the block or anything?

Jamie

r.barn

only dif in 302 vs 351 heads are head bolt holes are bigger on 351
thats it. you can drill them out and they work fine, or put buching kits in 351 heads and use em on a 302.

are you sure you want to do a .060 over bore? most good mechanics say to do
no more than a .040, after that it makes cylinder walls too thin between cylinders.

personally i would just get a new stock 351W short block from local engine builder
for $500-600, put some Vic Jr. or AFR 205 heads, a 10psi blower, fuel injection, a girdle support and windage tray
and be done with well over 500rwhp. This will be a rock solid set-up the un-godly amounts of torque and horsepower

fuel injection is easy, just use trickflow 5.8L intake or GT-40 off Lightning truck, EEC computer out of 5.0 mustang and wire harness,
get custom chip burned for the computer and you're done.

88stangaruu

750Carb is plenty for a healthy 393, just buy a scat stroker crank shaft, they're only like $350, then prep your stock 351 Rods, polish the shafts and grind off any rough spots (casting lines, etc.) soften all the sharp edges on the rods, etc. Then have them magafluxed and shot peened for strength. Next find some good condition forged 302 Pistons, from a 87-late 92 5.0 engine. This is your rotating assembly. Next your going to need some decent heads, stock 289/302/351 heads arnt going to be doing a 393 any good. Even ported they'e not large enough to flow the air a 393 needs. Go with some Vic Jr heads from edelbrock. Thats hould be all the head (LMAO) your stroker needs to breath. Call Comp and order yourself a nice custom cam, they'll walk you through everything you need to know and they'll grind you a nice cam that will make the most power out of your combo. Dont buy a shelf cam, custom is the way to go. They'll also recomend springs and retainers, etc for that cam they grind for you. Good luck. Have fun eating some big blocks.

spyder_doo

ok it's been a while but I think I'm ready to go ahead and do this project. just need some more opinions.

the engine has been pushed 60 over so would the 393 setup still work just with 60 over pistons?

what camber and intake cc heads would be a good flow rate for this setup? I'm going to go with some out of the box vic jr probaly.

anyone know of any good sites to order this stuff from? (crank, pistons, heads, cam)

4Stangs

Everything to stroke the motor is the same...crank, rods, etc. The pistons will need to be .060 over, but WOW that's alot of over bore and pistons are generally available to .030 over. You're pushing the cyl walls almost into the water jacket. I'd seriously consider another block, and check the cost of a shortblock assembly from CHP, DSS and Jegs etc. for Ford Racing...probably more cost effective than doing it yourself. Clearancing the block for the stroker parts is easy and already done if you get the shortblock from one of those mentioned aboove.
A Ford Racing 392 shortblock assembly is $3200, $3400 if you go to forged internals (I would). A stroker kit will run you $2000 and a stock block $600 or more plus machine work...

Your 750 will be ok with a 392 depending on cam/head/piston combination you settle on. I assume something streetable in the 285 deg. dur and 540 to 550 lift range with a good head around 60 cc combustion chamber AFR, TFS, Vic Jr 185 or maybe 205 at 9.5 to 10:1 CR.

420 to 450 Hp should be about right with such a combo.

spyder_doo

thanks that's what I was wanting to know. I've gotta friend running the same setup as me in his drag car. His has 20k miles or so on it and it's .60 over. I think he dyno'd around the 550 mark with nitrous. I'll be happy with around 400-450

4Stangs

Keep us posted on how it goes.[sm=signs003.gif]