Rotors
12-09-2007, 10:16 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 218
RE: Rotors
That's a good write up Aereon but the big brake part is flawed. Or just completely wrong. I will give you that the bigger brakes are heavier but it's marginal in the scheme of things. Especially since a lot of higher end kits use aluminum calipers. And yes they do reduce operating temps,a lot. That's where the accuracy ends.
Bigger brakes WILL REDUCE STOPPING DISTANCE, sometimes drastically reduce stopping distances.Putting a caliper further out from the center of rotation allows more leverage (greater mechanical advantage) on the rotor and therefore the wheels. A good demonstration of this would be for you to go the gym. Put a 45lb weight on a bench bar and spin it. Try stopping it by pushing your hand against the weight as close to the inside as you can get. It will likely be somewhat difficult to stop. Now do the same thing with your hand completely to the outside of the weight, it will stop almost immediately with very little effort. It's simple physics. And yes they do look kick ***, but they're also very functional.
Slotted rotors do serve minimal purpose on a stoplight to stoplight vehicle with no rapid braking required. But hauling your car down from a 1/4 pass from over 100mph, autocrossing, or a stoplight challenge (<--- I don't condone this, but I know it happens so don't give me heat on that.) you'll definately notice them. Rotors from powerslot are also plated so you don't have rusty ugly rotors behind your wheels. So there's purpose and some bling factor.
Bigger brakes WILL REDUCE STOPPING DISTANCE, sometimes drastically reduce stopping distances.Putting a caliper further out from the center of rotation allows more leverage (greater mechanical advantage) on the rotor and therefore the wheels. A good demonstration of this would be for you to go the gym. Put a 45lb weight on a bench bar and spin it. Try stopping it by pushing your hand against the weight as close to the inside as you can get. It will likely be somewhat difficult to stop. Now do the same thing with your hand completely to the outside of the weight, it will stop almost immediately with very little effort. It's simple physics. And yes they do look kick ***, but they're also very functional.
Slotted rotors do serve minimal purpose on a stoplight to stoplight vehicle with no rapid braking required. But hauling your car down from a 1/4 pass from over 100mph, autocrossing, or a stoplight challenge (<--- I don't condone this, but I know it happens so don't give me heat on that.) you'll definately notice them. Rotors from powerslot are also plated so you don't have rusty ugly rotors behind your wheels. So there's purpose and some bling factor.
12-09-2007, 10:50 PM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Whitehall, Michigan
Posts: 2,638
RE: Rotors
I bought no-name slotted and drilled rotors, 13" -- stock cobra size.
They've been on the car for 20k miles or so? No, they haven't eaten up my pads... no, they haven't cracked and blown up intoa million pieces.
They've been perfect, I actually managed to warp them a few thousand miles after getting them. The warmer they get, the worse the warping/shake seems to be. When they're cold, or for daily driving, I don't notice. When I start to beat on them (hard stops at highway+ speeds multiple times) the shake starts to develop again.
When the pads are worn, I will probably get new rotors at the same time, these weren't zinc plated either, so they have rust lines.
Aside from that, I chose them because I like the look... for your street car, your choice of slotting/drilling is PURELY based on appearance. If you choose one or the other based on potential performance gains, you're kidding yourself. You will notice a big difference with a larger rotor SIZE though (and a larger contact patch on the rotor)... this is where the gain in the Cobra brake swap comes in.
PS: That article has been floating around a while... it's fairly anti-drilling of the rotors, just some guy who had a bad experience, notice a few things:
It says -
-Drilling the rotors is like running your pads over a cheese grater
--(This is true to some degree, the holes are FLUSH with the rotor's surface though, the pad loss is minimal... Not only that, wouldn't slotting be much much worse for pad life then? Yes, slotting slices more of the pad off, but in this case it's called "preventing glazing"... please).
-There's a risk of stress cracks with slotting too, but it's worth the risk
--(What exactly is worth the risk? Slotting that cuts layers off your pads to prevent glazing... something you said was BAD about drilling the rotors? With a well planned pattern, drilling causes no more of a risk than slotting the rotor).
-Bigger brakeswould do more harm than good, it's extra weight
--(Sure, it's extra rotational mass, which is unarguably the worst weight you can add to your car, but again in this case, it's worth the tradeoff. There will be extra mass from the rotors, but on the flip side here, you will need less effort to stop the car the larger the rotor is, and the further out the caliper grabs on it... this equates to LONGER pad life.)
In the end, the differences between a larger rotor, slotting, or drilling will not be realized on your average street car... but you'll sure appreciate a larger rotor when you need to stop at highway speeds
The other two choices are totally up to you based on the appearance alone. Also, I'm not attacking Aereon. I know he did not write that article... I am simply pointing out the author had a bad experience with drilled rotors, or for some other reason hates them, and wrote a very biased and untrue article.
They've been on the car for 20k miles or so? No, they haven't eaten up my pads... no, they haven't cracked and blown up intoa million pieces.
They've been perfect, I actually managed to warp them a few thousand miles after getting them. The warmer they get, the worse the warping/shake seems to be. When they're cold, or for daily driving, I don't notice. When I start to beat on them (hard stops at highway+ speeds multiple times) the shake starts to develop again.
When the pads are worn, I will probably get new rotors at the same time, these weren't zinc plated either, so they have rust lines.
Aside from that, I chose them because I like the look... for your street car, your choice of slotting/drilling is PURELY based on appearance. If you choose one or the other based on potential performance gains, you're kidding yourself. You will notice a big difference with a larger rotor SIZE though (and a larger contact patch on the rotor)... this is where the gain in the Cobra brake swap comes in.
PS: That article has been floating around a while... it's fairly anti-drilling of the rotors, just some guy who had a bad experience, notice a few things:
It says -
-Drilling the rotors is like running your pads over a cheese grater
--(This is true to some degree, the holes are FLUSH with the rotor's surface though, the pad loss is minimal... Not only that, wouldn't slotting be much much worse for pad life then? Yes, slotting slices more of the pad off, but in this case it's called "preventing glazing"... please).
-There's a risk of stress cracks with slotting too, but it's worth the risk
--(What exactly is worth the risk? Slotting that cuts layers off your pads to prevent glazing... something you said was BAD about drilling the rotors? With a well planned pattern, drilling causes no more of a risk than slotting the rotor).
-Bigger brakeswould do more harm than good, it's extra weight
--(Sure, it's extra rotational mass, which is unarguably the worst weight you can add to your car, but again in this case, it's worth the tradeoff. There will be extra mass from the rotors, but on the flip side here, you will need less effort to stop the car the larger the rotor is, and the further out the caliper grabs on it... this equates to LONGER pad life.)
In the end, the differences between a larger rotor, slotting, or drilling will not be realized on your average street car... but you'll sure appreciate a larger rotor when you need to stop at highway speeds
The other two choices are totally up to you based on the appearance alone. Also, I'm not attacking Aereon. I know he did not write that article... I am simply pointing out the author had a bad experience with drilled rotors, or for some other reason hates them, and wrote a very biased and untrue article.
12-09-2007, 11:33 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Nashville/Knoxville, Tennessee
Posts: 4,687
RE: Rotors
if it was for powerslot then im sure they were trying to promote their product vs the other drilled rotor companies...
if drilling is so bad for cars... why do lots of high end german cars have them stock? i see mercedes and bmw's with them on there stock all the time.
i plan on eventually when my pads are gone just swapping out my rusted rotors for some zinc plated brembo drilled and slotted rotors front and back. my current brembo blanks are rusted badly (i have the cobra front upgrade)
if drilling is so bad for cars... why do lots of high end german cars have them stock? i see mercedes and bmw's with them on there stock all the time.
i plan on eventually when my pads are gone just swapping out my rusted rotors for some zinc plated brembo drilled and slotted rotors front and back. my current brembo blanks are rusted badly (i have the cobra front upgrade)
12-09-2007, 11:36 PM
#14
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: Rotors
you guys are interpreting it the way you want to. They are saying there is a limit to how big a rotor will help you. Go put a 20" rotor on there and tell me it stops you better than a 14" rotor. They are talking about the marginal benefit of increasing the size of the rotor by 1" will reach a point where the weight gained by that 1 extra inch is no longer beneficial. Rotational & unsprung weight is bad!.
As for the slotting/cross drilling, the purpose of the holes were to vent gasses that older style pads used to create. They are now obsolete. Regardless of what you think or what you may have experienced it does not change the fact that drilling holes lower structural rigidity of the rotor, it also lowers the rotors ability to dissipate heat. You may have offset this by getting a bigger rotor but if you get a 14" blank and a 14" cross drilled rotor, your gonna see higher temps in the cross drilled ones. The main reason is the air has less surface area to chill the rotor with the cross drilled ones. Argue as you might that air flow through the holes will decrease surface temp, it just doesnt mean that thermal dynamics does not exist. Surface area helps dissipate heat faster, more surface area, more heat will be dissipated. Anyways I'm beating a dying horse right now. Believe what you want, spend extra money on a piece that does worse than a cheaper rotor, with holes in it that lowers structural integrity. Do what you want if you do not want to heed advice and wanna look fly.
As for slotted, it cuts your pads and wears it our quicker than a blank will. Pad life will decrease, and on the streets you won't be stopping hard enough on a regular basis to worry about glazing. As for cutting slots into the rotor, yes it is not as structurally sound as a blank but it is way more sound than a drilled through rotor as there will still be a decent amount of metal left over. Therefore slotted rotors is another riceresque mod if your putting it on a DD, Yes I said riceresque, putting rotors on your car that do nothing and even hurt performance just to look good is just as bad as putting a 10" tall wing on your car.
Now if you track your car on the regular and wanna use slotted rotors instead of blanks, then all the power to ya, smart move! If you wanna use a crossdrilled rotor on the track then good luck, be prepared to replace the over priced rotors that you oh so love.
Here is where someone will say, but what about porsche and their crossdrilled/slotted rotors that I see on the streets? They were made with the intention of them being on the track, but these rich kids with tiny *****'s buy them and flaunt them knowing little or nothing about their cars. Porsche in the past used pads that needed to have gasses vented, but after the mass appeal of the cross drilled rotors, I doubt they'd drop that program, especially as it increases owners cost to own and whatnot. There was also a rumor going around that they were cast with holes, thus making them a bit more rigid and structurally sound, but from what I've read on corner-carvers, that is most likely false.
Have fun and be safe, do what makes you happy, if cross drilled rotors do, then ignore me.
As for the slotting/cross drilling, the purpose of the holes were to vent gasses that older style pads used to create. They are now obsolete. Regardless of what you think or what you may have experienced it does not change the fact that drilling holes lower structural rigidity of the rotor, it also lowers the rotors ability to dissipate heat. You may have offset this by getting a bigger rotor but if you get a 14" blank and a 14" cross drilled rotor, your gonna see higher temps in the cross drilled ones. The main reason is the air has less surface area to chill the rotor with the cross drilled ones. Argue as you might that air flow through the holes will decrease surface temp, it just doesnt mean that thermal dynamics does not exist. Surface area helps dissipate heat faster, more surface area, more heat will be dissipated. Anyways I'm beating a dying horse right now. Believe what you want, spend extra money on a piece that does worse than a cheaper rotor, with holes in it that lowers structural integrity. Do what you want if you do not want to heed advice and wanna look fly.
As for slotted, it cuts your pads and wears it our quicker than a blank will. Pad life will decrease, and on the streets you won't be stopping hard enough on a regular basis to worry about glazing. As for cutting slots into the rotor, yes it is not as structurally sound as a blank but it is way more sound than a drilled through rotor as there will still be a decent amount of metal left over. Therefore slotted rotors is another riceresque mod if your putting it on a DD, Yes I said riceresque, putting rotors on your car that do nothing and even hurt performance just to look good is just as bad as putting a 10" tall wing on your car.
Now if you track your car on the regular and wanna use slotted rotors instead of blanks, then all the power to ya, smart move! If you wanna use a crossdrilled rotor on the track then good luck, be prepared to replace the over priced rotors that you oh so love.
Here is where someone will say, but what about porsche and their crossdrilled/slotted rotors that I see on the streets? They were made with the intention of them being on the track, but these rich kids with tiny *****'s buy them and flaunt them knowing little or nothing about their cars. Porsche in the past used pads that needed to have gasses vented, but after the mass appeal of the cross drilled rotors, I doubt they'd drop that program, especially as it increases owners cost to own and whatnot. There was also a rumor going around that they were cast with holes, thus making them a bit more rigid and structurally sound, but from what I've read on corner-carvers, that is most likely false.
Have fun and be safe, do what makes you happy, if cross drilled rotors do, then ignore me.
12-10-2007, 02:42 AM
#15
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 12,575
RE: Rotors
I dunno about the slotted/crossdrilled stuff, as I have never owned any, but I can tell you that there is simply a huge differnence in feel, and IMO stopping distance, with the cobra 13 inch brake pacakge compared to the stock GT stuff.
The cobra setup will start doing the abs pulsing thing (meaning your getting to the point where you would be sliding the tires if there was no abs) alot higher up in MPH than the stock stuff. The pedal feel is also LOTs better. I am not 100 percent sure this is due to only the kit, as I had never bled the brakes before that, but it definatly didnt hurt.
if your looking to spend 250 bucks on rotors, why not spend an extra 100 or so and get the mach 1 kit from buyfordracing ? for only 100 bucks more you get alot better brakes that will definatly outperform any BS crossdrilled/slotted stuff on the stock 11 inchers.
The only downside to the 13 inch kit is that you can no longer run a 15 inch wheel like a draglite.. the brakes are too big.
The cobra setup will start doing the abs pulsing thing (meaning your getting to the point where you would be sliding the tires if there was no abs) alot higher up in MPH than the stock stuff. The pedal feel is also LOTs better. I am not 100 percent sure this is due to only the kit, as I had never bled the brakes before that, but it definatly didnt hurt.
if your looking to spend 250 bucks on rotors, why not spend an extra 100 or so and get the mach 1 kit from buyfordracing ? for only 100 bucks more you get alot better brakes that will definatly outperform any BS crossdrilled/slotted stuff on the stock 11 inchers.
The only downside to the 13 inch kit is that you can no longer run a 15 inch wheel like a draglite.. the brakes are too big.
12-10-2007, 06:30 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Whitehall, Michigan
Posts: 2,638
RE: Rotors
ORIGINAL: Aereon
you guys are interpreting it the way you want to. They are saying there is a limit to how big a rotor will help you. Go put a 20" rotor on there and tell me it stops you better than a 14" rotor. They are talking about the marginal benefit of increasing the size of the rotor by 1" will reach a point where the weight gained by that 1 extra inch is no longer beneficial. Rotational & unsprung weight is bad!.
As for the slotting/cross drilling, the purpose of the holes were to vent gasses that older style pads used to create. They are now obsolete. Regardless of what you think or what you may have experienced it does not change the fact that drilling holes lower structural rigidity of the rotor, it also lowers the rotors ability to dissipate heat. You may have offset this by getting a bigger rotor but if you get a 14" blank and a 14" cross drilled rotor, your gonna see higher temps in the cross drilled ones. The main reason is the air has less surface area to chill the rotor with the cross drilled ones. Argue as you might that air flow through the holes will decrease surface temp, it just doesnt mean that thermal dynamics does not exist. Surface area helps dissipate heat faster, more surface area, more heat will be dissipated. Anyways I'm beating a dying horse right now. Believe what you want, spend extra money on a piece that does worse than a cheaper rotor, with holes in it that lowers structural integrity. Do what you want if you do not want to heed advice and wanna look fly.
As for slotted, it cuts your pads and wears it our quicker than a blank will. Pad life will decrease, and on the streets you won't be stopping hard enough on a regular basis to worry about glazing. As for cutting slots into the rotor, yes it is not as structurally sound as a blank but it is way more sound than a drilled through rotor as there will still be a decent amount of metal left over. Therefore slotted rotors is another riceresque mod if your putting it on a DD, Yes I said riceresque, putting rotors on your car that do nothing and even hurt performance just to look good is just as bad as putting a 10" tall wing on your car.
Now if you track your car on the regular and wanna use slotted rotors instead of blanks, then all the power to ya, smart move! If you wanna use a crossdrilled rotor on the track then good luck, be prepared to replace the over priced rotors that you oh so love.
Here is where someone will say, but what about porsche and their crossdrilled/slotted rotors that I see on the streets? They were made with the intention of them being on the track, but these rich kids with tiny *****'s buy them and flaunt them knowing little or nothing about their cars. Porsche in the past used pads that needed to have gasses vented, but after the mass appeal of the cross drilled rotors, I doubt they'd drop that program, especially as it increases owners cost to own and whatnot. There was also a rumor going around that they were cast with holes, thus making them a bit more rigid and structurally sound, but from what I've read on corner-carvers, that is most likely false.
Have fun and be safe, do what makes you happy, if cross drilled rotors do, then ignore me.
you guys are interpreting it the way you want to. They are saying there is a limit to how big a rotor will help you. Go put a 20" rotor on there and tell me it stops you better than a 14" rotor. They are talking about the marginal benefit of increasing the size of the rotor by 1" will reach a point where the weight gained by that 1 extra inch is no longer beneficial. Rotational & unsprung weight is bad!.
As for the slotting/cross drilling, the purpose of the holes were to vent gasses that older style pads used to create. They are now obsolete. Regardless of what you think or what you may have experienced it does not change the fact that drilling holes lower structural rigidity of the rotor, it also lowers the rotors ability to dissipate heat. You may have offset this by getting a bigger rotor but if you get a 14" blank and a 14" cross drilled rotor, your gonna see higher temps in the cross drilled ones. The main reason is the air has less surface area to chill the rotor with the cross drilled ones. Argue as you might that air flow through the holes will decrease surface temp, it just doesnt mean that thermal dynamics does not exist. Surface area helps dissipate heat faster, more surface area, more heat will be dissipated. Anyways I'm beating a dying horse right now. Believe what you want, spend extra money on a piece that does worse than a cheaper rotor, with holes in it that lowers structural integrity. Do what you want if you do not want to heed advice and wanna look fly.
As for slotted, it cuts your pads and wears it our quicker than a blank will. Pad life will decrease, and on the streets you won't be stopping hard enough on a regular basis to worry about glazing. As for cutting slots into the rotor, yes it is not as structurally sound as a blank but it is way more sound than a drilled through rotor as there will still be a decent amount of metal left over. Therefore slotted rotors is another riceresque mod if your putting it on a DD, Yes I said riceresque, putting rotors on your car that do nothing and even hurt performance just to look good is just as bad as putting a 10" tall wing on your car.
Now if you track your car on the regular and wanna use slotted rotors instead of blanks, then all the power to ya, smart move! If you wanna use a crossdrilled rotor on the track then good luck, be prepared to replace the over priced rotors that you oh so love.
Here is where someone will say, but what about porsche and their crossdrilled/slotted rotors that I see on the streets? They were made with the intention of them being on the track, but these rich kids with tiny *****'s buy them and flaunt them knowing little or nothing about their cars. Porsche in the past used pads that needed to have gasses vented, but after the mass appeal of the cross drilled rotors, I doubt they'd drop that program, especially as it increases owners cost to own and whatnot. There was also a rumor going around that they were cast with holes, thus making them a bit more rigid and structurally sound, but from what I've read on corner-carvers, that is most likely false.
Have fun and be safe, do what makes you happy, if cross drilled rotors do, then ignore me.
First, going to a huge rotor has diminishing returns, but 13" for these cars is NOT excessive. Who is going to go much higher than 14" anyway? 14 requires 18" wheels, anything bigger and you'll need a bigger wheel... most people won't step higher. Why the fuss? The stock GT brakes are plenty good for around town speeds, and up to highway speeds... Any higher than that and you WILL need something bigger.
Second, if my brakes make me a ricer, so be it... There's lots of people out there who will disagree
Third, I guarantee my rotors were cheaper than any blanks you'd find... they're holding up just fine. The slotted+drilled rotors were $5 more each, big deal.
Fourth, my rotors have seen track duty. Guess what? They're fine.
Finally, I'll be more than happy to ignore you. The attacks were not necessary, but hey, let me know those performance gains you got from the HID fogs and painted black strip at the back of your car Mr. Ricer. [sm=icon_rofl.gif]
Ah, ignorance is bliss. Welcome to my ignore list.
12-10-2007, 08:36 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: Rotors
ORIGINAL: ShadowDrake
I wasn't aiming anything directly at you. Let em rip,I guess.
First, going to a huge rotor has diminishing returns, but 13" for these cars is NOT excessive. Who is going to go much higher than 14" anyway? 14 requires 18" wheels, anything bigger and you'll need a bigger wheel... most people won't step higher. Why the fuss? The stock GT brakes are plenty good for around town speeds, and up to highway speeds... Any higher than that and you WILL need something bigger.
Second, if my brakes make me a ricer, so be it... There's lots of people out there who will disagree
Third, I guarantee my rotors were cheaper than any blanks you'd find... they're holding up just fine. The slotted+drilled rotors were $5 more each, big deal.
Fourth, my rotors have seen track duty. Guess what? They're fine.
Finally, I'll be more than happy to ignore you. The attacks were not necessary, but hey, let me know those performance gains you got from the HID fogs and painted black strip at the back of your car Mr. Ricer.
Ah, ignorance is bliss. Welcome to my ignore list.
ORIGINAL: Aereon
you guys are interpreting it the way you want to. They are saying there is a limit to how big a rotor will help you. Go put a 20" rotor on there and tell me it stops you better than a 14" rotor. They are talking about the marginal benefit of increasing the size of the rotor by 1" will reach a point where the weight gained by that 1 extra inch is no longer beneficial. Rotational & unsprung weight is bad!.
As for the slotting/cross drilling, the purpose of the holes were to vent gasses that older style pads used to create. They are now obsolete. Regardless of what you think or what you may have experienced it does not change the fact that drilling holes lower structural rigidity of the rotor, it also lowers the rotors ability to dissipate heat. You may have offset this by getting a bigger rotor but if you get a 14" blank and a 14" cross drilled rotor, your gonna see higher temps in the cross drilled ones. The main reason is the air has less surface area to chill the rotor with the cross drilled ones. Argue as you might that air flow through the holes will decrease surface temp, it just doesnt mean that thermal dynamics does not exist. Surface area helps dissipate heat faster, more surface area, more heat will be dissipated. Anyways I'm beating a dying horse right now. Believe what you want, spend extra money on a piece that does worse than a cheaper rotor, with holes in it that lowers structural integrity. Do what you want if you do not want to heed advice and wanna look fly.
As for slotted, it cuts your pads and wears it our quicker than a blank will. Pad life will decrease, and on the streets you won't be stopping hard enough on a regular basis to worry about glazing. As for cutting slots into the rotor, yes it is not as structurally sound as a blank but it is way more sound than a drilled through rotor as there will still be a decent amount of metal left over. Therefore slotted rotors is another riceresque mod if your putting it on a DD, Yes I said riceresque, putting rotors on your car that do nothing and even hurt performance just to look good is just as bad as putting a 10" tall wing on your car.
Now if you track your car on the regular and wanna use slotted rotors instead of blanks, then all the power to ya, smart move! If you wanna use a crossdrilled rotor on the track then good luck, be prepared to replace the over priced rotors that you oh so love.
Here is where someone will say, but what about porsche and their crossdrilled/slotted rotors that I see on the streets? They were made with the intention of them being on the track, but these rich kids with tiny *****'s buy them and flaunt them knowing little or nothing about their cars. Porsche in the past used pads that needed to have gasses vented, but after the mass appeal of the cross drilled rotors, I doubt they'd drop that program, especially as it increases owners cost to own and whatnot. There was also a rumor going around that they were cast with holes, thus making them a bit more rigid and structurally sound, but from what I've read on corner-carvers, that is most likely false.
Have fun and be safe, do what makes you happy, if cross drilled rotors do, then ignore me.
you guys are interpreting it the way you want to. They are saying there is a limit to how big a rotor will help you. Go put a 20" rotor on there and tell me it stops you better than a 14" rotor. They are talking about the marginal benefit of increasing the size of the rotor by 1" will reach a point where the weight gained by that 1 extra inch is no longer beneficial. Rotational & unsprung weight is bad!.
As for the slotting/cross drilling, the purpose of the holes were to vent gasses that older style pads used to create. They are now obsolete. Regardless of what you think or what you may have experienced it does not change the fact that drilling holes lower structural rigidity of the rotor, it also lowers the rotors ability to dissipate heat. You may have offset this by getting a bigger rotor but if you get a 14" blank and a 14" cross drilled rotor, your gonna see higher temps in the cross drilled ones. The main reason is the air has less surface area to chill the rotor with the cross drilled ones. Argue as you might that air flow through the holes will decrease surface temp, it just doesnt mean that thermal dynamics does not exist. Surface area helps dissipate heat faster, more surface area, more heat will be dissipated. Anyways I'm beating a dying horse right now. Believe what you want, spend extra money on a piece that does worse than a cheaper rotor, with holes in it that lowers structural integrity. Do what you want if you do not want to heed advice and wanna look fly.
As for slotted, it cuts your pads and wears it our quicker than a blank will. Pad life will decrease, and on the streets you won't be stopping hard enough on a regular basis to worry about glazing. As for cutting slots into the rotor, yes it is not as structurally sound as a blank but it is way more sound than a drilled through rotor as there will still be a decent amount of metal left over. Therefore slotted rotors is another riceresque mod if your putting it on a DD, Yes I said riceresque, putting rotors on your car that do nothing and even hurt performance just to look good is just as bad as putting a 10" tall wing on your car.
Now if you track your car on the regular and wanna use slotted rotors instead of blanks, then all the power to ya, smart move! If you wanna use a crossdrilled rotor on the track then good luck, be prepared to replace the over priced rotors that you oh so love.
Here is where someone will say, but what about porsche and their crossdrilled/slotted rotors that I see on the streets? They were made with the intention of them being on the track, but these rich kids with tiny *****'s buy them and flaunt them knowing little or nothing about their cars. Porsche in the past used pads that needed to have gasses vented, but after the mass appeal of the cross drilled rotors, I doubt they'd drop that program, especially as it increases owners cost to own and whatnot. There was also a rumor going around that they were cast with holes, thus making them a bit more rigid and structurally sound, but from what I've read on corner-carvers, that is most likely false.
Have fun and be safe, do what makes you happy, if cross drilled rotors do, then ignore me.
First, going to a huge rotor has diminishing returns, but 13" for these cars is NOT excessive. Who is going to go much higher than 14" anyway? 14 requires 18" wheels, anything bigger and you'll need a bigger wheel... most people won't step higher. Why the fuss? The stock GT brakes are plenty good for around town speeds, and up to highway speeds... Any higher than that and you WILL need something bigger.
Second, if my brakes make me a ricer, so be it... There's lots of people out there who will disagree
Third, I guarantee my rotors were cheaper than any blanks you'd find... they're holding up just fine. The slotted+drilled rotors were $5 more each, big deal.
Fourth, my rotors have seen track duty. Guess what? They're fine.
Finally, I'll be more than happy to ignore you. The attacks were not necessary, but hey, let me know those performance gains you got from the HID fogs and painted black strip at the back of your car Mr. Ricer.
Ah, ignorance is bliss. Welcome to my ignore list.
secondly, the people that disagree with me on the brakes have their own beliefs, I'm not calling you out, just providing information and opinion on the issue the op asked about. If others disagree that they are not a waste of money and do nothing more than "look" fast then go ahead and go to a forum like Corner-carvers and try and prove your argument. These people race their cars in autocross events daily and most of them have engineering degree's. Also there are alot of people there from companies like griggs and maximum motorsports that are glad to answer questions. Now if they'd recommend you some crossdrilled rotors or not cause its more expensive and they make more profit from ya^^.
third, I got my rotors for free as I work part time for a shop, the owner gave these to me + will resurface them for me for free.
Fourth, how take them to a solo II event, you also noted you had rotor warp. This is what you call fine? I've had these free 13" blanks in my car for over 30k miles, with over 1000+ miles of hard cornering at soloII and autox events.
OOOH personal burn. Fifth, HID fogs produce more light output than your stockers and so do my hid headlamps. I can see better and farther than you can at night. They produce bright white light so I guess that makes me an uber ricer. Now the black strip, its not promoting any kind of performance gains (like your cross drilled rotors are supposed to increase performance right?) unless you think vinyls add horsepower, I really doubt anyones gonna look at my car and be like look theres a vinyl on the bumper. ITS FAST. Excuse the sarcasm but please stick to the point here, we are talking about rotors.
Last, Thank you for ignoring me, makes me feel like I've hit a nerve. Maybe some of this will stick the next time you buy your inexpensive cross drilled rotors.
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Omgitsa88Stang
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