cisurfer

Hi i purchased a cable/firewall/ quadrant from brenspeed, it is all UPR...its such an easy install and i screwed it up and i just did my rear gears myself! haha well first the firewall adjuster is lose against the firewall the screw wont tighten down all the way, 2nd i didnt use the spacer they gave me cuz the cable wouldnt go thru it and 3rd the pedal is extremely stiff and barely releases...could this be the cable? i thot it was supposed to be easier to release and push in. on the quadrant the triple hooks face upwards correct? i wish there was a writeup for this

jrherald420

[align=left]this is forthe steeda kit but the directions are the same except for the triple pick up quadrent. and yes the hooks go up[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]DOUBLE HOOK CLUTCH QUADRANT AND CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT KIT, INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. 1982-2004 MUSTANGS[/align][align=left]Quadrant[/align][align=left]1) At the bellhousing, remove the plastic splash shield. Use a prybar to slacken the clutch[/align][align=left]cable and disconnect it from the clutch fork.[/align][align=left]2) Under the dash, pull the end of the cable loose from the quadrant[/align][align=left]3) Under the dash there are two plastic parts which make up the factory clutch quadrant[/align][align=left]mechanism. They are held in place by clips on the end of the shafts. Remove the clips[/align][align=left]from the end of the shafts.[/align][align=left]4) Press the clutch pedal fully to the floor (you may have to pull the carpet aside) and pry[/align][align=left]the plastic quadrant and springs off.[/align][align=left]5) Press the clutch pedal to the floor again. Install the metal spacer over the shaft first,[/align][align=left]followed by the quadrant and finally the plastic washer, as shown in the picture.[/align][align=left]Reinstall the clips onto the shafts.[/align][align=left]6) Install the Adjustable Cable or Cable Adjuster. Hook the cable onto the clutch[/align][align=left]quadrant. If you are using a firewall mounted Cable Adjuster, attach the cable to[/align][align=left]the hook closest to the firewall. If you are using an Adjustable Cable without a[/align][align=left]firewall Adjuster, attach the cable to the hook farthest away from the firewall.[/align][align=left]Note: The clutch should be adjusted so there very little or no slack in the cable, and[/align][align=left]the cable is keeping constant light tension on the quadrant. If the cable is TOO[/align][align=left]LOOSE it may result in a vibrating clutch pedal or rattle under the dash. If the[/align][align=left]cable is TOO TIGHT damage to the clutch or cable may result. As the clutch[/align][align=left]wears, the cable will get tighter and the clutch will need to be re-adjusted.[/align][align=left]Adjustable Cable[/align][align=left]1) At the bellhousing, remove the plastic splash shield. Use a prybar to slacken the clutch[/align][align=left]cable and disconnect it from the clutch fork. Remove the clip which holds the cable to[/align][align=left]the bellhousing. In the engine compartment, disconnect the cable support bracket(s)[/align][align=left]from the car. Disconnect the cable from the firewall.[/align][align=left]2) Under the dash, pull the end of the cable loose from the quadrant and remove the cable[/align][align=left]from the car.[/align][align=left]3) Insert the end of the new cable through the firewall and bolt the cable to the firewall[/align][align=left]with the factory screw. On some vehicles, the original cable will have two screws at[/align][align=left]the firewall. In most cases this second screw is not used on the new cable. Hook the[/align][align=left]cable over the end of the clutch quadrant.[/align][align=left]4) Route the cable through the engine compartment to the bell housing. 1994-95 Mustangs[/align][align=left]may need to follow a slightly different routing than stock to make the cable reach[/align][align=left]without interference. Attach the cable support brackets.[/align][align=left]5) Reconnect the clutch cable to the clutch fork.[/align][align=left]6) Secure the cable away from hot engine parts and sharp edges with cable ties.[/align][align=left]Note: Care must be taken to keep the cable away from long tube headers. Clutch cables[/align][align=left]are not designed to withstand direct contact with exhaust components. Long tube[/align][align=left]headers should be wrapped to keep radiant heat from damaging the cable.[/align][align=left]7) Adjust the clutch cable by turning the ball nut with a wrench. Be sure the clutch fully[/align][align=left]releases when the pedal is depressed, and the clutch is fully engaged with only light[/align][align=left]tension on the cable when the pedal is released. Tighten the jam nut to lock your[/align][align=left]adjustment in place.[/align][align=left]Have someone step on the clutch while you check to make sure the clutch fork[/align][align=left]does not bind against the bellhousing and the threaded rod does not bind against[/align][align=left]the end of the cable-housing coming through the bellhousing.. Call Steeda tech[/align][align=left]support at 954-960-0774 if the cable is binding.[/align][align=left]Firewall Cable Adjuster[/align][align=left]1) At the bellhousing, remove the plastic splash shield. Use a prybar to slacken the clutch[/align][align=left]cable and disconnect it from the fork. Disconnect the cable from the firewall.[/align][align=left]2) Pull the rubber bushing off of the end of the clutch cable where the cable meets the[/align][align=left]firewall. File the 4 small bumps off of the end of the clutch cable (adjustable cables[/align][align=left]and 82-93 stock cables only). Insert the clutch cable into the Cable Adjuster.[/align][align=left]1994-2004 MUSTANG USING STOCK CABLE:[/align][align=left]Pry the metal flange which bolts to the firewall off of the cable. Unhook the[/align][align=left]plastic coupler and pull it off the cable sheath. Cut through the coupler to[/align][align=left]remove it from the cable. Pull the rubber bushing (which was under the[/align][align=left]coupler) off of the cable. Place the bronze adapter bushing into the Cable[/align][align=left]Adjuster. Insert the clutch cable into the Cable Adjuster.[/align][align=left]3) Install the cable and Adjuster into the firewall and connect the cable to the Double[/align][align=left]Hook Clutch Quadrant. Attach the cable to the hook closest to the firewall. Use a[/align][align=left]small screw to attach the Cable Adjuster to the firewall.[/align][align=left]4) Reconnect the clutch cable to the clutch fork.[/align][align=left]5) Adjust the clutch by turning the Cable Adjuster. Be sure the clutch fully releases when[/align][align=left]the pedal is depressed, and the clutch is fully engaged with light tension on the cable[/align][align=left]when the pedal is released.[/align][align=left]6) Lock the adjustment by tightening the set-screw on the Cable Adjuster with the 3/32�[/align][align=left]Allen wrench. If you loose the set screw, a small dab of silicone gasket maker on the[/align]threads will keep the Cable Adjuster from vibrating loose.

cliffyk

You need to cut the plastic bushing at the firewall end of the clutch cable so that you can use the supplied spacer. I also have the UPR adjuster and quadrant and can see wherenotmodifying the cable and not using the spacer could cause the cable to cant and be hard to operate.[/align][/align]The "standard" after market quadrants do not make the clutch effort any easier astheir cam profilesare all similarly shapedas the OEM unit. There are "quick release" quadrants available that actually increase the required effort as a side effect of quickening the release.[/align][/align]I agree that UPRs directions suck; there is no mention of the need to modify the OEM cable, but it becomes obvious once you realise the spacer is essential. Use a utility knife and go slow so as to not lose any fingers.[/align]