4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Code P2270

Old 07-13-2008, 10:03 AM
  #11  
big mitch
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Well finally got a chance to crawl under the car. I knew there was an aftermarket exhaust but found the cats removed and an H pipe installed. I suspect after doing some reading that I will have to put some MIL eliminators in. Did a search but couldn't find any info on where or how to connect them. I did come across a site where a guy gives you info on how to build your own. Anyone have info on where you could buy some as not sure which route I will take.
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Old 07-13-2008, 10:29 AM
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cliffyk
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They are not being widely sold any longer, something changed a year or so ago and the major vendors stopped selling them. They are illegal, under Federal law, to use on street car; but then again so is removing the cats in the first place...[/align][/align]Here are my directions as to how to make your own, there's a link to a '99 to '04 Mustang specific wiring at the top of the page; you can click here too...[/align]
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:12 AM
  #13  
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Thanks for the info, just a couple of questions to pick you brain.
1. After completing the jumper did you splice/tap into the harness on the backside of the plugs.
2. If I'm understanding your schematic correctly you tap the resistor/capacitor wire into the gray and red wire and the capacitor wire into the red/light green wire for the passanger side rear O2 sensor. Then for the drivers side the gray and red wire for the resistor/capacitor and violet/light green for the capacitor.
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Old 07-13-2008, 11:19 AM
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Default RE: Code P2270

Also forgot to ask what gauge wire are you using 10 or 12. Thanks for all your help and info

Scott
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Old 07-13-2008, 01:01 PM
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Default RE: Code P2270

ORIGINAL: big mitch

Thanks for the info, just a couple of questions to pick you brain.
1. After completing the jumper did you splice/tap into the harness on the backside of the plugs.
2. If I'm understanding your schematic correctly you tap the resistor/capacitor wire into the gray and red wire and the capacitor wire into the red/light green wire for the passanger side rear O2 sensor. Then for the drivers side the gray and red wire for the resistor/capacitor and violet/light green for the capacitor.
[/align][/align]1. They can be inserted anywhere, before of after the connector. If installed into the harness end of the connector you obviously won't need to rewire them if you need to replace a sensor. OTH, if installed into the sensor pigtail it's easier because you can remove the sensor and make the whole thing up on the bench. I usually do the latter and just make new ones when I replace the sensors;[/align][/align]2. Yes, this forms a simple single pole RC filter;[/align][/align]As for wire size, 18 ga would be fine as even the heater current is only 4.2 A (the sensor current peaks at 0.1 mA. However I usually use 16 ga for it's better physical strength. The autoparts stores all sell smallish rolls of 16 ga in various colors.[/align][/align]
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Old 07-13-2008, 01:42 PM
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Thanks for the insight and quick reply, got the resistors and capacitors from Radio Shack earlier. One more quick question for you for clarification on my part. In your picture of you harness make up you show the + side of the capacitor attached with the resistor while in the schematic it shows the + side of the capacitor attached to the wire by itself. I might be misunderstanding what I'm looking at just want to make sure I do it right. Thanks again for your help.
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Old 07-13-2008, 02:34 PM
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The schematic is the preferred orientation, though it really doesn't matter...[/align][/align]I knocked the thing together quickly for the photos and got it backwards. Good eyes, you are the first one to catch that in six years![/align][/align][/align]
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Old 07-16-2008, 09:58 PM
  #18  
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Cliff just wanted to pass along my thanks for the info you provided. Made up some MIL's today decided to use handshakes on the ends to splice into the O2 sensor so that way if I have to replace the sensor it'll make for a quick disconnect of the MIL. Did find MIL's (commercial style) already installed. Read them out and found the right side resistor wire open. Anyway to make a long story short installed the MIL reset the code took the car for a drive, so far so good. Thanks again for all your help and info.
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