So, when doing the crank pulley, i have some questions..

Use long starter bolt to set pulley in position..ok then use old washer and old bolt..

Then let me get this straight..

Tighten bolt to 60ft/lb...loosen the bolt 360 degrees.. Tighten bolt 34 ft/lb... tighten bolt 90 degrees..
Why the hell am i doing this again?

 

It is so it sets the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) all the way on and it is evenly on. Its similar to when you install cylindar heads with there bolts. Only its so the gastket sets evenly. My book also says 114-120 ft/lb and a small amount of RTV on the bolt.

 

the way i see it i'd rather have it a little tighter than a little looser. i'd probably tighten it another 120 degrees or something instead of 90, unless it felt like it would strip..which it wont if it was torqued to 60 before that. I just have OCD on bolts...an oil change is like a nightmare for me, LolZ.

I've had real bad luck with pullies, ever since i put one on my old jetta, i had nothing but trouble..it always wobbled and wanted to fall off. i swore i'd never buy another pulley set..but i'm really falling for the steeda.

 

i strongly dissagree... 1st hand... not my car... a 71 camaro with a blower... overtightened the crank bolt... had big problems

 

..k on second thought i'll leave it at 90 degrees. Heck, worse comes to worse I see it start to wabble i can tighten it some more

 

The factory manual says:That would be the way I'd do it.

The reason for doing this is that the first torquing ensures the pulley is seated on the cranknose;

The second torquing brings the fastener to a known starting point, at a low enough torque that binding of the threads and bolt head/washer are minor considerations--and at a level where most torque wrenches will be reasonably accurate;

The added 90° turn sets the final torque to a calculated torque value, independent of thread/head/washer binding, lubrication, torque wrench accuracy, etc.

 

you da man dawg