4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

cracked intake - please help

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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 01:34 PM
  #11  
white venom's Avatar
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same thing happend to me not to long ago, just label all your wires n such. i looked up a how to on the internet and me and my dad did it.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 10:28 PM
  #12  
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I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. Very easy to do. Make sure you do not get any coolant into the plugs or on the coils, you will have loads of misfires. Its very easy, and if your seeing coolant on your block, its your crappy plastic manifold. Heres a link with pictures of how to do it.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/pi-intake-install.html
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:15 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by samsu402
I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. Very easy to do. Make sure you do not get any coolant into the plugs or on the coils, you will have loads of misfires. Its very easy, and if your seeing coolant on your block, its your crappy plastic manifold. Heres a link with pictures of how to do it.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/pi-intake-install.html
I think I may have screwed up one of the plugs or coils. I'm getting a really loud knocking after putting the typhoon in and getting it all back together. Most likely a spark plug issue not an injector issue right? Should I replace the spark plugs or coil packs or is there a way to clean them?

Also my manifold shows no signs of a crack but the gasket was pretty torn up on the driver's side. Is that enough to drain out all my coolant though?

I replaced the belt while I was doing this but I'm not sure how I could have screwed that up. I dont think that is the problem but I am just letting you all know. I spent all day doing this and now I probably have to do most of it again. I would really appreciate some of your help on what the issue could be. Thanks.
Old Dec 27, 2008 | 04:14 AM
  #14  
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I didn't get a knocking sound when I did mine but I did get some crazy vibrations. For me, it was a mix of not tightening the intake all the way down and that I had tried to use the old gaskets (silly cheap-old me....). That basically meant that when coolant was circulating in my car, it would get all over the place. The phrase "all over the place" included the coils and plugs.

Like Frankenstang told me in my help thread, run your engine dry and see if you can spot any leaks. It would help if you checked your coils and spark plugs to see if they are dry. If they've been wet, it wouldn't be too wasteful to replace the spark plug. Maybe even just take the opportunity to replace them all if you're in need a spark change. I'd do that after fixing the leak, though. Make sure you have the bolts torqued down all the way. Use a torque wrench! Also, if you do end up removing the intake again, by all means, clean the mating surfaces and gasket. Maybe also apply some gasket sealant (Permatek Red RTV High-Temp). Additionally, if you find yourself removing the gasket again, don't forget to check that your inertial fuel switch disengage whatever-you-call-it in your trunk is not tripped before you start the car. That's the mechanism that releases the fuel pressure in your car if you're in an accident that causes more than a certain amount of force to your car. Mine tripped for some reason when I was tightening down the intake and I couldn't start the car.

Finally, is your SES light on? If so, see if you can get the code read. It might just be that you have a cylinder misfire but codes tell you things.

Good luck with the rest of the install!
Old Dec 27, 2008 | 10:11 AM
  #15  
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I used a torque wrench and torqued all the manifold bolts down to 18 ft-lbs. like I was supposed to. I also replaced the gaskets since they were messed up. I cleaned both surfaces before putting it together. The car starts fine and runs it just has an obnoxious knocking which I'm assuming is a misfire. I didn't notice any codes but I'll check that soon. I know that at least one of the plugs had coolant in it because it was all over the place from the leak. When I pulled the coil pack off, coolant got to the plug because it was already in the well. Whats the best way to isolate the cylinder if there is no code?

Thanks.
Old Dec 27, 2008 | 10:24 AM
  #16  
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The reason I ask how to isolate is because it sounds like it's on the other side of the engine from the coil pack that I know had coolant in it. I will probably take them all apart and clean them but I want to make sure I am certain which cylinders are having problems before I take it apart.

Also, if the spark plugs are original, should I replace them? What should I replace them with and how do I get the wells cleaned before I replace them so that no crap falls in the engine and that they work after I change them out? Thanks.
Old Dec 27, 2008 | 11:35 AM
  #17  
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A friend of mine just came by to look at it and he said it sounds like a bent valve or something mechanincal wrong with the engine. Having never heard a misfire I just assumed that's what it was. So I'm just going to cut my losses and take it to a shop. Since there wasn't a crack in the intake manifold I'm thinking this may have been the problem from the beginning. Thanks for your help guys I'll let you know what ends up being the issue.
Old Dec 27, 2008 | 07:29 PM
  #18  
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If there was absolutely no crack in your intake manifold coolant bridge, but coolant all over the place anyway, then yes, you should do a thorough search like MustangWill recommended...gotta figure out where the coolant is coming from!
If it is a hose leak, or whatever else, you should see it...
Would suggest reading through his thread here:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6-...g-coolant.html
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