4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

I snapped a bolt off in the head HELP!

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Old 07-10-2009, 05:28 PM
  #21  
Thumper2Kewl
 
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I know exactly the bolts your talking about and yes they are small, it just takes some fairly precision welding but it can be done.
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:33 PM
  #22  
jvog
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Originally Posted by Thumper2Kewl
I know exactly the bolts your talking about and yes they are small, it just takes some fairly precision welding but it can be done.
Theres the problem lol
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Old 07-10-2009, 06:01 PM
  #23  
cbbass123
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i still say a lil heat n bolt extract kit. I don't mean melt the ****... This reminds me of a friends 5.0 where his ac bracket bolts snapped into head cause they were corroded. That was a nasty extraction...
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:04 PM
  #24  
Sxynerd
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Do it the way I said and you wont have a problem I've extracted hundred of bolts over the years.


For the Future: ALWAYS, run a tap through old threads Everytime you start on a new motor and EVERY time an engine or head comes back from the Machine shop.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:48 PM
  #25  
jvog
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Originally Posted by sxynerd
Do it the way I said and you wont have a problem I've extracted hundred of bolts over the years.


For the Future: ALWAYS, run a tap through old threads Everytime you start on a new motor and EVERY time an engine or head comes back from the Machine shop.
I did it the way you said, the drill but just won't go into the bolt. It either doesn't do anything, or I break the bit. The threads weren't messed up, I just overtorqued it like a dumbass.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:22 PM
  #26  
Sxynerd
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Originally Posted by jvog
I did it the way you said, the drill but just won't go into the bolt. It either doesn't do anything, or I break the bit. The threads weren't messed up, I just overtorqued it like a dumbass.
If you're breaking bits, you're at the wrong angle and spinning the drill too fast. If all else fails, get a standard bit and drill a small starter whole into the broken bolt and after it's in about the width of the lead from a wood pencil, switch over to the Reverse bit using the largest bit you can fit into the whole that doesn't nick the aluminum.

I wish I were there to help.
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Old 07-11-2009, 09:07 AM
  #27  
01GTDropTop
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Originally Posted by sxynerd
For the Future: ALWAYS, run a tap through old threads Everytime you start on a new motor and EVERY time an engine or head comes back from the Machine shop.
^ +1 Very true statement
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Old 07-11-2009, 09:50 AM
  #28  
Xemeth
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Here's my question. What size ratchet were you using when you were tightening them? I'm guessing 3/8 or 1/2, cause if you were using 1/4 inch you probably wouldn't have had a problem.

I put most of my motor together with a 1/4 inch ratchet. Most of the bolts are small and don't need to be crazy torqued. The only thing I didn't use 1/4 inch for were the heads, timing cover, and intake. All the other little odds and ends a 1/4 inch worked perfect.

My service manager told me this when I first started my job:

"If you use the torque spec tighten till it snaps then back off two turns, you're not gonna go very far in this business."
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:18 AM
  #29  
rthouck
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This is mostly a repeat but one trick for stuck bolts - heat and a candle - heat up the bolt and stick a candle on it the wax will penetrate into the threads and loosen it - seems to me penetrating oil works just as well though.

In my experience with this - just take your time - you'll probably go through several drill bits but start small, go slow (it takes forever sometimes), then move up after you have a deep enough hole - if you're off center - use a center punch next time - oh and make sure your cooling it with cutting oil or some spray oil.

If you screwed up to bad and they're a way off - center hole or you just cant get it - take it to a machine shop and use this as a "lesson's learned" for next time.

Someday you'll be the one on here posting tips for someone ....
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