SN95 Coilover Spring Rates & Options
#1
SN95 Coilover Spring Rates & Options
02 GT Vert. Rolling on 18" rims from an 06 GT, spaced for proper fitment. Other than a Steeda front strut tower bar, the car is bone stock.
I want to get rid of the massive body roll on turn-in, and get her handling in the twisties. This is really my wife's car, so I need to preserve a little ride quality, but the stock suspension reminds us of a Crown Vic more than a sports car. Overall I'm looking for a much firmer ride without going full race. A second objective is to get rid of the massive fender gap, so I am looking for a roughly 1.5" drop.
Coilovers look like the way to go for me, as its the best way to get the drop and wheel rate increase while also preserving some ride quality. Despite searching extensively on MustangForums, ModdedMustangs, AllFordMustangs, and Corral, I have not found a good straightforward writeup on recommended equipment. I see a lot of talk devoted to quarter mile times, but few people talk about cornering performance, which is all I am after. When people do talk about UPRs, Eibachs, etc, they really don't seem to know that much about suspension tuning, especially not for cornering performance, and there is no talk of spring rates.
I am pretty picky about suspension setup, and I want to select balanced spring rates in the right range, match struts to springs, and end up with good dynamic weight transfer. I am a race driver with a few season club championships, but I am new to the Mustang.
I am thinking MM CC plates but after that I don't know what CO setup to run. Are there any actual experienced road race or HPDE drivers here who can give me a little insight on a good adjustable setup to get 1-2" of drop and flatter cornering without making the ride knock your teeth out on the street? Any insight or pointers to existing threads greatly appreciated.
Regards,
David
I want to get rid of the massive body roll on turn-in, and get her handling in the twisties. This is really my wife's car, so I need to preserve a little ride quality, but the stock suspension reminds us of a Crown Vic more than a sports car. Overall I'm looking for a much firmer ride without going full race. A second objective is to get rid of the massive fender gap, so I am looking for a roughly 1.5" drop.
Coilovers look like the way to go for me, as its the best way to get the drop and wheel rate increase while also preserving some ride quality. Despite searching extensively on MustangForums, ModdedMustangs, AllFordMustangs, and Corral, I have not found a good straightforward writeup on recommended equipment. I see a lot of talk devoted to quarter mile times, but few people talk about cornering performance, which is all I am after. When people do talk about UPRs, Eibachs, etc, they really don't seem to know that much about suspension tuning, especially not for cornering performance, and there is no talk of spring rates.
I am pretty picky about suspension setup, and I want to select balanced spring rates in the right range, match struts to springs, and end up with good dynamic weight transfer. I am a race driver with a few season club championships, but I am new to the Mustang.
I am thinking MM CC plates but after that I don't know what CO setup to run. Are there any actual experienced road race or HPDE drivers here who can give me a little insight on a good adjustable setup to get 1-2" of drop and flatter cornering without making the ride knock your teeth out on the street? Any insight or pointers to existing threads greatly appreciated.
Regards,
David
#2
You could give MM (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/) a call, they will set you in the right direction, or just wait till Jazzer and a few others chime in.
#3
Best info I have found so far is 150# fronts, and whatever matches that on the rears, for a stock GT weight.
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...ight=coilovers
http://forums.corral.net/forums/show...ight=coilovers
#4
Wecome to MF's, Doc
Boy, I would say 150# is going to be quite light up front and even a bit light out back as well.
The first thing I will say, that sounds like you already know, is you WILL lose ride quality building a nice handling ride and the Mustang is no exception. You can, however, minimalize this by going CO's, as you already figure, and somewhat lighter springs.
I would recommend you install Full-length sub-frame connectors and have them welded in place. This will greatly improve ALL the handling characteristics of your ride at minimal cost in ride quality. The body will be much tighter, so some rattles may be limited, but the body will not flex as much so car will respond more quickly upon change of direction and some find a bit jarring. This will also help support the body so the doors will close properly and not sag until the latch becomes mis-aligned. I would start here and see how the little lady likes it. Take a peak a my Official Suspension Guide (in sig) and read the entire thing (probably 1/2 hour read) and will be familiar territory I am sure, as I just finished reading your second paragraph above
As for spring rates, for over a year, I ran 300# (f) and 200# (r) on Koni Yellows and was fantastic for the street. I am about 2" drop, but running a full Griggs GR-40 suspension, so cannot go that low on stock "K". Although great for the street, it was not good for AX or the oval. I had HUGE understeer issues even after I upgraded to SLA up front. I was unwilling to give up on ride quality for the street, so I ended up keeping my rear spring/shock set-up and just installed an MMRSB #4 and was a big plus. I may upgrade to the #5 bar during this upcoming AX season starting next month *pulling teeth out as of this moment*, but will see how she goes.
Have to run, so lemme know what 'cha think!
Jazzer
PS. where is CA you at?
Boy, I would say 150# is going to be quite light up front and even a bit light out back as well.
The first thing I will say, that sounds like you already know, is you WILL lose ride quality building a nice handling ride and the Mustang is no exception. You can, however, minimalize this by going CO's, as you already figure, and somewhat lighter springs.
I would recommend you install Full-length sub-frame connectors and have them welded in place. This will greatly improve ALL the handling characteristics of your ride at minimal cost in ride quality. The body will be much tighter, so some rattles may be limited, but the body will not flex as much so car will respond more quickly upon change of direction and some find a bit jarring. This will also help support the body so the doors will close properly and not sag until the latch becomes mis-aligned. I would start here and see how the little lady likes it. Take a peak a my Official Suspension Guide (in sig) and read the entire thing (probably 1/2 hour read) and will be familiar territory I am sure, as I just finished reading your second paragraph above
As for spring rates, for over a year, I ran 300# (f) and 200# (r) on Koni Yellows and was fantastic for the street. I am about 2" drop, but running a full Griggs GR-40 suspension, so cannot go that low on stock "K". Although great for the street, it was not good for AX or the oval. I had HUGE understeer issues even after I upgraded to SLA up front. I was unwilling to give up on ride quality for the street, so I ended up keeping my rear spring/shock set-up and just installed an MMRSB #4 and was a big plus. I may upgrade to the #5 bar during this upcoming AX season starting next month *pulling teeth out as of this moment*, but will see how she goes.
Have to run, so lemme know what 'cha think!
Jazzer
PS. where is CA you at?
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