Daveo2k6

Actually one more question.. is the washer suppose to be flush against the crank when the bolt is completely screwed in? I wanna know how far it is suppose to go in before I try to reinstall the harmonic balancer

wingman75

I had the same problem when I had UDP installed. They used a helicoil and did not have to remove the crank. This was on my 2007 GT.

Daveo2k6

This sucks.. is this a common problem with the UDP's? Once I fix this and install them I shouldnt have to worry about this unless I take the pulley off again right?

cliffyk

It's not a common problem at all--however I have seen some people (I actually watched one fellow do it before I could stop him) try to use the long crank bolt that comes with many UDP kits--the one that is supposed to only be used to jack the pulley on to the crank nose--to actually mount the pulley.

When that long bolt bottoms out, and you attempt to torque it to factory specs (which is "friggin' tight", 37lbft + 1/4 turn) , you can kiss the threads in the crank nose goodbye.

Beyond that, using the cranknose threads as a jackscrew to mount the pulley is a questionable practice--they were never intended for that duty. To do it properly one should use a harmonic balancer installation tool...

Daveo2k6

Well if i ever have to take it off again I will def get that tool! Thanks man

Daveo2k6

Just so everyone knows.. what I did was use a M12 1.5 tap to re-thread the crank threads and then used the install bolt from steeda to seat the crank on until the bolt bottomed out (BUT I DID NOT TORQUE IT) then I used the OEM bolt and torqued that to 66FT/LB back one turn.. etc (Hanes manual ha) and it worked just dandy!

But I am going to take my car to Ford just to have then check everything out.. I just wanna have a shop look my car over after I rebuilt it.

Thanks for all the help guys!