Derek00

Well I have been wanting/planning on replacing my cams for a while now and the time is finally here. I have a few questions that I have not been able to find the answers too.
First, I will start by telling you a little about my car to clear up any questions you may have. I have a 2003 GT with 60k miles and the following modifications already; H-pipe with high flow cats, MAC catback, CAI, Trick Flow 75mm throttle body and plenum, and 4.10 gears. This is my summer weekend car that I take on short road trips occasionally and I plan on taking to the track a few times a year.
I have decided to go with the Hitech Stage 2 cams and new springs. I am also going to get the Steeda under drive pulleys. So, with that said I have a few questions.
- I originally was going to get the comp beehive springs, but I recently read that they are not a very good choice and that the Crowers or Manley NexTek’s are the better choice. Is this more of a personal preference or is there some truth to this claim.
- I know that you don’t have to degree the cams but that it is recommended to get the most out of them, but I have not had any luck finding and good/clear instructions on doing this on the 2v modular engine. So if someone could help me out with that or point me in the direction of some good instructions that would be great. Also, is it possible to degree the cams enough with the stock cam gears (I have read conflicting information on this).
- Is it necessary to replace the timing kit (chains, cam gears, guides, ect.) if there are no signs of wear. I have only seen it once where it was recommended to replace no matter what, so I am leaning towards only replacing this stuff if there are signs of wear.
This will be my first time doing internal engine work so any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,
Derek

school boy

http://www.modularheadshop.com/camdegree.aspx
http://www.modularheadshop.com/caminstallation.aspx
http://www.modularheadshop.com/articlesfaq.aspx
http://www.modularheadshop.com/howto...rankgears.aspx

Sandmanbjj

Wow. Degreeing a cam is not for the average joe. If you install a cam what would it cost for someone to degree it? or should you let someone do the install and degree all together?

Z28KLR

May as well just send the whole thing out unless you got a guy who's willing to come to your house for degreeing. Otherwise you'd be loading up your half torn apart car on a tow truck to send it out to a shop. I agree with you though; I've looked into cam install a little before and it doesn't look like it's for the faint of heart, if I had somebody there who was reasonably familiar with what's going on then I would do it but definitely not a job I would just crack a beer and get going on by myself.

OP, it is generally recommended to go ahead and replace the guides and tensioner as one of those "while you're in there" sort of things. Besides, by the time most people discover that the guides are worn it's already too late and there's plastic pieces broken off from the guide that end up obstructing the oil pickup. Your car has pretty low miles and likely very little wear on the guides but it's pretty cheap insurance, all things considered.

Sandmanbjj

Excuse my ignorance here guys. I am pretty familiar with all the bolt ons and external motor stuff... at least enough to do most of the work myself. BUT internal engine work is still an area I am not very familiar with.
If I bought an old 4.6L 2v engine. Pulled the heads off. Can I send them somewhere with the cam, to be ported, valves and springs done, and all assembled and degreed, then replace them on my motor?
My plan ultimately is to buy a rebuilt motor, and have the heads and cam done while its still out of the car.