I recently had a OBD code of "bank 2 sensor 2" which led me to replace the Passenger side post cat O2 sensor. I got a Bosch OEM replacement, and have read that others have had problems with these replacements. Well, the code came back about 2 weeks after the bosch was put in. Any ideas??

 

Yeah wrong side there..

Bank 1 is the side where #1 piston is which on a GT is the passenger side.

Therefore Bank 2 sensor 2 is DRIVER SIDE post cat (as you indicated)

 

well...originally I put the sensor in the driver side location, got the code cleared, and it came back within a day. So the code was the same and a shop stated that it is the passenger side that is bank 2 sensor 2. So I took the sensor out and switched it, the C/E light cleared on its own that time. what do I do??

 

mil eliminators, i made my own, they have been working for about 500 miles so far

 

just get an Xcal 3 and turn off the rear o2 sensors and o2 heaters so then if you would go with an o/r midpipe, you would be set. or gears or anything else pretty much.

 

Do you have a catted H or X-pipe, or the OEM H-pipe? It could be that the cats are shot.

Also what exact code was it, there are 6 or 7 that reference the rear O2 sensors. Of those 3 or 4 mean that the sensors are fine and there is something else wrong...

 

I've got the stock H pipe. and actually, I never did look at the exact code. Just what the OBD diagnostic at advanced auto said. But I'll go back and check it out. PS: what kinda performance can I gain with the xcal3??

 

How many miles on your car, what kind of driving (mostly in-town, highway, ???)?

If over 65k and a 50/50 in-town/highway or mostly in-town and the cats could be toast.

If that's the case, and you have to pass inspections, and don't want to hassle with swapping things out at inspection time then get an after-market catted X-pipe. I got my UPR catted X for $300 on eBay. It may well be cheaper than getting replacement cats

But before doing anything get the exact codes, look 'em up here, and get back to us...