Pilot Bearing Sticking
#11
I just made the magnet set-up with a broken hard-drive magnet (they are VERY strong!) I don't have any plans or diagrams, just made on the fly
As for the clutch issues, try this. Open the access door on the side of bell-housing that gets to the clutch fork. Now, "push" the fork straight back away from you, not back and forth as the cable would do. The fork may be coming slightly off of the pivot bolt and creating LOTS of resistance. This happened to me and drove me nuts. Just push it back inward (will only go a VERY small amount, if at all) and take her for a drive. Let us know if it helps.
Jazzer
As for the clutch issues, try this. Open the access door on the side of bell-housing that gets to the clutch fork. Now, "push" the fork straight back away from you, not back and forth as the cable would do. The fork may be coming slightly off of the pivot bolt and creating LOTS of resistance. This happened to me and drove me nuts. Just push it back inward (will only go a VERY small amount, if at all) and take her for a drive. Let us know if it helps.
Jazzer
#12
Take a look at an old clutch replacement thread of mine that describes the issue I had and sounds to be similar to yours. I never had sticking while clutch was depressed, but had trouble disengaging and VERY hard to push at times. The link to pics are dead, but can find them and repost if you really need them.
All the movement you describe sounds like too much to me, but has been quite a while since I was in there. If you have pretty much anything up in there that is bad and in need of replacement, you are gonna have to pull the trans
Jazzer
EDIT: This was our trip to Disneyland and where the trouble really begain (see post #47)
All the movement you describe sounds like too much to me, but has been quite a while since I was in there. If you have pretty much anything up in there that is bad and in need of replacement, you are gonna have to pull the trans
Jazzer
EDIT: This was our trip to Disneyland and where the trouble really begain (see post #47)
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 12-10-2009 at 07:47 AM.
#14
I am not sure what the tolerances should be, but am sure it is not very much. I would guess no more than 1/2" either way of center, but am only guessing. If you push it inward (straight away from the opening toward the passenger side of the car), the fork should NOT move more than a VERY slight amount as it is on the pivot bolt in which it rests. The clutch fork works kinda like a teeter-totter and is fixed to the top of the pivot bolt. If the fork partially slides off, the fork will actully rub on the bell housing cover plate you remove to gain access. The fork then is "driven" into the side of the TO bearing sleeve and creates a lot of resistance when pressing on the clutch. This was a clue to how I figured out what was happening after I got it all apart.
Jazzer
Jazzer
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 12-10-2009 at 04:43 PM.
#15
I'm sorry but your Pilot bearing has nothing to do with the Clutch working properly it's function is to support the nose of the transmission shaft where it goes into the flywheel/Crank.
I assume your talking about the Throw out bearing and that has nothing to do with the clutch getting adjusted either.
And as far as the the adjustment it is in the Quadrant not the clutch cable itself. So I doubt putting the stock back on there will net you any difference. What tricks are you trying the only one I know of it to pull up on the clutch peddle until it clicks
I assume your talking about the Throw out bearing and that has nothing to do with the clutch getting adjusted either.
And as far as the the adjustment it is in the Quadrant not the clutch cable itself. So I doubt putting the stock back on there will net you any difference. What tricks are you trying the only one I know of it to pull up on the clutch peddle until it clicks
#16
^ Boy.... I guess if the needle bearings fall out and get lodged in the clutch/pressure plate mechanism.
This was really a symantic issue between the description of the sleeve in which the throw-out bearing rides and the bearing at the end of the crankshaft in which the input shaft rides. I can see how one might describe the sleeve as a "pilot bearing" as this is not a bad description, just confusing as another part has that actual name.
Jazzer
This was really a symantic issue between the description of the sleeve in which the throw-out bearing rides and the bearing at the end of the crankshaft in which the input shaft rides. I can see how one might describe the sleeve as a "pilot bearing" as this is not a bad description, just confusing as another part has that actual name.
Jazzer
#17
other then the pilot bearing somehowe coming apart and and needle bearings getting lodged somewhere its not going to affect you clutch working. all it will do is make a noise.
My sons 98 had the same issues you are having and we replaced the clutch fork and new oem tob and all is great since.
you want to put some good high temp grease on the shaft where the tob rides and a thin coat on the face of the tob and you should be good to go. these clutch forks where out or get bent somethimes.
we bought a ford oem fork and tob for 65.00
My sons 98 had the same issues you are having and we replaced the clutch fork and new oem tob and all is great since.
you want to put some good high temp grease on the shaft where the tob rides and a thin coat on the face of the tob and you should be good to go. these clutch forks where out or get bent somethimes.
we bought a ford oem fork and tob for 65.00
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