Originally Posted by cliffyk

...As to 280HP on 19lb/h injectors @ 80% DC, I doubt it--those puppies would be at 95% easy and very close to going static.

19lb/h * 80% * 8 = 121.6lb/h of fuel; at 0.5lb/h BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption, 0.5lb/h is rule of thumb for n/a engines) that would be only 243.2 HP, at the crankshaft.

19lb/h * 95% * 8 = 144.4lb/h, or 288.8 crank HP.

That's why Ford changed to the 21lb/h injectors in the late 2002 MY, the 19s had to run at 85% to 90% DC to support the factory claimed 260 HP. I believe that after cleaning up the '99 Cobra debacle they revisited the 2V in the GT and said "whoops!"...

Originally Posted by stangalator

Whoops, I was remembering old stats, maybe I was thinking of the 21's at .8, lol. But i agree, a wideband is essential for getting the AFR right. I finally installed mine and it makes tuning so much easier. 12.8-13.2 WOT and idle is around 14.5-15.0 same with cruising, around 14-15. Good Luck on your tuning times.

Originally Posted by cliffyk

Yes, however I would recommend an analog gauge rather than the digital unit.--for much the same reason that digital wrist watches, once all the rage, went away.

You have to read a digital display to figure out what's going on, but you can just glance at an analog display and get a good feeling for what the value is.
Also, the speed and range over which a value is changing (meter ballistics) displayed by an analog gauge contains all sort of valuable information...



The '96 fuel system is a return style system using a fuel pressure regulator to maintain the desired pressure by by-passing excess fuel back to the tank. The '99 to '04 models use a return-less fuel system with an electronically controlled pump.

This should not cause any problems, however--just thinking "out loud"...

Before changing the fuel pump you should do a fuel system leakdown test, this is done by connecting a fuel pressure gauge and then running the engine until it's warm, make a note of the fuel pressure while running.

Then shut the engine off and watch the pressure, it should stay within 5 psi of the running value for 5 to 10 minutes. If it bleeds down faster than that then either the injectors are leaking, or the fuel pressure regulator is not closing properly and letting fuel bleed back in to the tank.

Originally Posted by nascrchi

To be honest, I don't even know where to start. What makes tuning much easier, the wideband? I haven't narrowed it down to a good one at lowest cost.

Originally Posted by cliffyk

Yes, however I would recommend an analog gauge rather than the digital unit.--for much the same reason that digital wrist watches, once all the rage, went away.

You have to read a digital display to figure out what's going on, but you can just glance at an analog display and get a good feeling for what the value is.
Also, the speed and range over which a value is changing (meter ballistics) displayed by an analog gauge contains all sort of valuable information...



The '96 fuel system is a return style system using a fuel pressure regulator to maintain the desired pressure by by-passing excess fuel back to the tank. The '99 to '04 models use a return-less fuel system with an electronically controlled pump.

This should not cause any problems, however--just thinking "out loud"...

Before changing the fuel pump you should do a fuel system leakdown test, this is done by connecting a fuel pressure gauge and then running the engine until it's warm, make a note of the fuel pressure while running.

Then shut the engine off and watch the pressure, it should stay within 5 psi of the running value for 5 to 10 minutes. If it bleeds down faster than that then either the injectors are leaking, or the fuel pressure regulator is not closing properly and letting fuel bleed back in to the tank.

Originally Posted by stangalator

Oh sorry, i thought you had a hand held tuner, sorry. We'll you can't adjust anything really without a tuner of some kind. To decide what you want: dyno vs hand held is a rough call because with a dyno tune it good for the tune that you have now. When you add mods you can't change it. With a hand held tuner it wont have as good of tune (in general) unless you get good at tuning. Adjusting the AFR isn't that hard, is less guess work then the timing IMO. Since you know what ratios you want at WOT, idle, etc... The timing is a little tricky, I use my dataloging software in my Sniper SF kit. However you must be willing to really listen and keep track of any signs or pinging or knocking.

Originally Posted by cliffyk

The pressure sounds a bit low to me, although I don't know the spec for your '96. Perhaps one of the other member can help...