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Need nitrous guys to chime in

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Old 04-20-2011, 10:22 PM
  #11  
TRUEBLUE3934
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The guys have done a good job of answering your questions.
I would (I do) run a window switch as a safety to prevent nitrous from activating at too low of an rpm AND to prevent hitting your rev limiter with nitrous activated (REALLY BAD). A purge kit is not required, but it will help to improve your consistency if you like to run it at the track.

A cutom tune is a very good idea when you install nitrous. All of the extra steps or components can add up to some coin, but if you want to be safe with your set-up, don't cut corners.
GOOD LUCK!!!
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:04 PM
  #12  
huey_33
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Well, I just hit the purchase button for this nitrous system from dynotunenitrous

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=254

All I have to do now is find a digital MSD window switch. The nitrous kit should be easy enough to install but I haven't the slightest clue on where to begin with installing the window switch. If anyone has installed this window switch (link below), please give me some pointers and tips if you have any.

http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/8969/10002/-1
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:14 AM
  #13  
KillJoy
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Window switches on autos are pointless. If the car misses a shift you have more problems than your engine leaning out.

Also spraying out of the hole, or just stay home. Rolling 1st than flipping the switch is for rookies. The stock stall converter will unload to about 2500-3000rpm anyway under the additional power the nitrous gives the car.

I launch a stock stalled auto on spray more than once, so ask me how I know
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:18 AM
  #14  
KillJoy
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Double post..

Why dynotune? That's your first mistake right there. Call up and cancel the order before its too late. Their solenoids suck, and the overall quality of the kit is "meh"
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:46 AM
  #15  
huey_33
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Originally Posted by KillJoy
Why dynotune?
I was originally going to purchase the Zex wet kit from AM but I was told to stay away because their system doesn't run off of solenoids and their nitrous control system sucks and is known for leaking fuel. A few people recommended either harris speedworks, dynotune, compucar and edelbrock. I picked dynotune out of all of the choices so we will see how it works.
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:47 AM
  #16  
huey_33
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Ok, one more final question (hopefully). I am not going to be running anything higher than a 100 shot. I have read alot of posts and everybody seems to have their own opinions on spark plugs. I know I will need a plug that runs cooler so which ones do you guys suggest using?
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:25 AM
  #17  
WhiteFoxGT
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ngk tr6s gapped at .030
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:51 AM
  #18  
uberstang1
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Originally Posted by huey_33
Ok, one more final question (hopefully). I am not going to be running anything higher than a 100 shot. I have read alot of posts and everybody seems to have their own opinions on spark plugs. I know I will need a plug that runs cooler so which ones do you guys suggest using?
NX plate kit.
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Old 04-21-2011, 06:05 AM
  #19  
everett
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Originally Posted by WhiteFoxGT
ngk tr6s gapped at .030
Whoa. Tr-55s are one step colder and I have had my sex kit for a year with not one issue and I also have the same msd window switch. You DO NOT NEED A TUNE FOR 100 hp or less. It's a wet kit and the fuel spray compensates for the initial lean spike then the ecu takes care of the rest. And the tr-6 is not a colder than stock plug. The tr-55 are 1 step colder. Honestly there is nothing wrong with zex. It's a great starter kit for the money and has been reliable for me. The fuel management to the brain box is a great idea with the schreader valve,makes instal a snap. The brain box is great. And if you don't want to spray don't floor it. Even 3/4 pedal doesn't spray,only when the pedal is right down. And I have a tuner and I have jets to 175 hp. Over 100 hp use the tuner to retard timing 2 degrees for every 25 hp to keep it safe and adjust your wot fuel up 2 for every 25 hp. I also have a methanol kit that sprays when I use larger than a 100 hp jet and have hit my 2v with 175 wet. And op you need to let the car sit 15 minutes between nitrous runs due to fuel puddling in the intake manifold. I watched a guy go back to back 3 runs and on the 4 he blew the entire intake off the car. And I raise my rev limiter for the track to 6200 rpm,window switch is set at 2800 and 5800. And you have an auto so once on the floor the nitrous will spray right til the end of your run. It will not shut off between shifts because you will be above 3000 rpms after the shift. Mine shuts of because I let of the gas to shift for backfire prevention. And it busts the tires loose grabbing 4th. Zex is fine unles you are a pro racer with fogger plate systems. And you can get zed jets from 55-175 hp. Remember tr-55 plugs,back timing off if spraying over 100 hp shot and 10-15 minutes between runs. And I suggest starting with the smallest jet and work your way up. A 100 hp shot when it hits can get pretty interesting. Happy driving
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Old 04-21-2011, 06:15 AM
  #20  
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OP i have a 01 auto and i am going nitrous ( currently in the process of a complete change in my car). And i have the NX plate kit, msd window switch ( i would rather be safe then sorry), I have tr-6 plugs, NX bottle heater and harris speed works WOT switch. I AM getting a purge kit later in the summer but i just wanted to get my kit started for now.
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