teej281

I second that notion keith.

dwtjr3

I agree

Ram1216

So I'm thinking I'm going to get a catted X-PIPE, replace the O2 sensors, because I feel like there's some kind of cheater setup on there right now, though I'm not sure, then take it and get it dyno tuned, then worry about getting rid of the P1000 code after I know the a/f ratios are running right and my O2 Sensors are good, and won't throw any other codes, since this is a requirement through the parameters that eliminate the P1000 that I found here

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

Does this sound like a reasonable idea?

All told, it will run me $400 for a BBK Catted X, whatever O2 sensors cost, and $300 for the dyno tune if I take it to the place I would like to and it can be tuned in 3 hours. I would likely have to have them put on the 9psi pulley since the current tune is for 7 and I can't drive it there with the 9 on it....

sn95_331_GT_ yellow

you could put it on before, just dont get into boost on the way there

Ram1216

Last question, then I will be able to make up my mind as to what I am doing.

I read on KBs webpage that they don't believe high flow cats make that big of a difference or any at all, for that matter.

I have the stock H-PIPE on my back deck, with cats. I could wait until next friday, and order the $400 BBK High-Flow catted X-PIPE. Would there be any huge horsepower loss at 9psi + Meth, Shorty Headers, and Flowmasters, with the stock Catted pipe as opposed to the High flows?

In my head, the answer seems to be yes. According to Kennebell, the headers are the only part that really matters... So insight would be much appreciated! Then I can make my decision, and get my tune, and upload some dyno sheets

Ram1216

Hey Guys, I never updated this and thought I would. Got 95% of the things in the car ironed out and a dyno tune. Kept everything pretty much the way it was, just fixed, and the car made 365/394.

Now it's heading back for long tubes and frame connectors.

sn95_331_GT_ yellow

baller!!