4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

New clutch!

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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 06:39 PM
  #11  
crash's Avatar
crash
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BrandofPoop
 
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From: Bay Area
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So I guess I need to be clear. My clutch had been messed up for almost a year. I've been a cheap *** and have just let it be for a while. I mentioned in my first post that it is a custom clutch. It will be tailored to my specifications of what I want. I just put the order in and will be speaking with the builder on Monday. I wouldn't have done this if I didn't need a clutch. Originally the clutch that I ruined was only rated to 400 hp anyways which is on par for my transmission. I said earlier that my friends clutch was rated to 800 hp because he needs it, eventually. His 6 speed is a racing one built to handle that kind of power and he wanted a clutch to handle the power.


If this wasn't a necessity then I wouldnt have done it. I'm a year older an wiser now. Yes I was dumb before but at least I'm a that dumb as i was a year ago. When I'm ready for power to be added then I'll go ahead and strengthen the transmission. But a clutch is a necessity. Might as well get a good one. Not too mention if I bought one that was rated the same power as my transmission the difference would only be $100 bucks. /rant lol now just be happy or me that I'll have a nice clutch that isn't messed up
Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #12  
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teej281
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From: South Central PA
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Sorry bro, can't do it. Need to have a clutch properly built for your car. Centerforce df would have been perfectly fine. and to tell you the truth, that's mostly how it is with clutches. You can buy a df for like $360 or something. And the dfx is only like $100 more or could be less. Haven't priced it for a while. But it's kind of a waste of $100 when you will more than likely wear out the clutch before you actually have the power to make use of it.

I'd love to be happy for you bud. But just can't. Sorry.
Old Aug 28, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #13  
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crash
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BrandofPoop
 
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Well, life is about learning what works and doesn't work, right? anyways, mods if you want, go ahead and lock this thread. There isn't much more to be said here.
Old Aug 28, 2011 | 12:48 PM
  #14  
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kugzgt
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THISSSS ISSSS CRASSHHHHHH ANNDDDD IIIMMMMM GETTTTIIIINNNGGG AAA NEWWWW CLUUUTCHHHHH!!!!!
Old Aug 29, 2011 | 05:52 AM
  #15  
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uberstang1
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Originally Posted by teej281
Crash, I'm siding with wannabe on this one. Clutch, rated for 800hp(more than likely like 600tq would be a good guess as that's what makes clutches go out). Stock 10 spline input shaft, rated at like 400, if that. That'd be one of the first things I did to my car but you have to completely redo the trans to install one. Transmission internals, rated to like 365lb ft torque. So when you ever race the car and that clutch grabs hard, tires stick well, say bye bye input shaft and trans internals, or whichever goes first. I don't want to be a downer or anything, but you purchased the wrong clutch. If anything you want to pick a clutch that will actually be the weak link in the system because I think you'd rather replace a clutch than an entire transmission.

I know many people didn't like him and called most of his claims bs, but Ox when his car wasn't a race car he was running a spec stage 1 clutch making 700rwhp.

You don't want too much clutch for any application...and you just bought way to much clutch for your car my friend.

Sorry.
I disagree totally with the dont get a clutch rated for more than the tranny unless its NA and close to stock power levels,an a King cobra and also a spec stage 1, with the combination of the blower and stickey tires each clutch didn't last more than 3 months. Been running a spec stage 2+ now for over two years and constant clutch dumps, abuse, 4th gear brake stands, and my STOCK t45 is doing just fine. BUT in Crash's scenario I will have to agree that overkill clutch isn't necessary.
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