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Old 11-26-2013, 07:36 AM
  #21  
Soldier GT
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Originally Posted by 99 GT vert
I agree with bman definitely do the cobra tank but if it isnt in the budget before yiu get a tune at least get the dual pump hat so you are not wasting money on a second tune
Yeah man that's the way I'm going (cobra tank). I would have bought upon my return from Korea but this buying a house thing can get expensive quick. Now the frigging seller doesn't want to pay closing cost (he must drive a camaro) so I may be stuck with that. I have the money for the tune so I'm gonna get it tuned this month and drive it around a bit before the weather gets to bad. The tank may be my spring or early summer mod. I haven't driven the car since March 23rd of 2012 so I'm kinda having withdrawals right now.

So what do you guys think? With my setup plus the bap, high flow fuel rails, 55lb Injectors and Walbro 255 lph pump what do you guys guesstimate my rwhp numbers will be?
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:59 AM
  #22  
Bman2000
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I think injectors are plenty, I think with a 3.33 pullie you'll be low 400s although you did say you have cams so mid low I would think would be a safe bet. I want to give you one more fuel warning though, it's fine to wait for the tank and dual pump set up since I'm sure you'll be careful and keep the tank full and what not, the warning comes from factory parts on old cars. I don't know how many miles you have one your car but I had 120k on mine motor was new, but all the electric components were old, meaning my fpdm, fprs, alternator. I bring this up because I had fuel deliver issues related to these being old. I had a ford gt super car pump and it wouldn't support 350rwhp and the reason was the fpdm was not able to put out full voltage, then I got a new one and found out that the alternator wasn't putting out enough voltage. In our cars the cycling of the fuel pump is controlled by precise current. If any of that falls short the fuel will be inadequate. Pretty easy to test but nightmare to track down. With a bap I imagine you'll have less of an issue if any at all. But if you do run into any fueling issues I just say check signal output on fpdm first. Nothing sucks worse than a Dyno day cut short by fueling problems. Also shameless plug I have a brand new factory fpdm for sale that I used for 500 miles before I went return style haha. 100 bucks. Hopefully you won't need any of the crap I did. Good luck
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:19 AM
  #23  
dwtjr3
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Im glad you are getting it installed by someone that knows what they are doing this time.

Im excited to see what kind of power you will be putting down when its all said and done with the 292's. What are you doing for heads again? I forget what you told me

Congrats on making it back home and once again thanks for what you do.
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:46 AM
  #24  
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I would love to see more of that 1970 fastback mustang in the picture!
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Old 11-26-2013, 01:22 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bman2000
I think injectors are plenty, I think with a 3.33 pullie you'll be low 400s although you did say you have cams so mid low I would think would be a safe bet. I want to give you one more fuel warning though, it's fine to wait for the tank and dual pump set up since I'm sure you'll be careful and keep the tank full and what not, the warning comes from factory parts on old cars. I don't know how many miles you have one your car but I had 120k on mine motor was new, but all the electric components were old, meaning my fpdm, fprs, alternator. I bring this up because I had fuel deliver issues related to these being old. I had a ford gt super car pump and it wouldn't support 350rwhp and the reason was the fpdm was not able to put out full voltage, then I got a new one and found out that the alternator wasn't putting out enough voltage. In our cars the cycling of the fuel pump is controlled by precise current. If any of that falls short the fuel will be inadequate. Pretty easy to test but nightmare to track down. With a bap I imagine you'll have less of an issue if any at all. But if you do run into any fueling issues I just say check signal output on fpdm first. Nothing sucks worse than a Dyno day cut short by fueling problems. Also shameless plug I have a brand new factory fpdm for sale that I used for 500 miles before I went return style haha. 100 bucks. Hopefully you won't need any of the crap I did. Good luck

Damn man you really got me thinking. The day my car engine blew I was very low on gas. He&& I was on fumes. Also one of the things that the installer said that I needed was a new alternator. If you can look at the picture a little closer you'll see that I bought a brand new alternator. I never knew a lack of fuel and having a electrical issue could cause a engine to detonate. Also I bough a new battery. The only thing I'm worried about now is the alternator I bought having enough current. I bought the 105 amp polished alternator from AM.
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Old 11-26-2013, 01:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dwtjr3
Im glad you are getting it installed by someone that knows what they are doing this time.

Im excited to see what kind of power you will be putting down when its all said and done with the 292's. What are you doing for heads again? I forget what you told me

Congrats on making it back home and once again thanks for what you do.

Hey thanks man. I guess the only luck that I have had is that the block had no structual issues when it blew last time. As far as the heads that will be my next winter big mod. I'm going with trick flows after that it'll be suspension and that's going to be it for a while. I retire June 2015 so my goal is to have her deep into the 6's and use it strictly for the local dragstrip. A old man has to have a hobby, lol!
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:36 PM
  #27  
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Just wait till spring comes and go with a return style set-up!! Especially if you want to hit the 600+ rwhp range!
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Old 11-26-2013, 03:05 PM
  #28  
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Man I feel like a noob but I gotta ask the question. What's all needed to covert my car to return style and am I really on borrowed time with the walbro pump? I've read that the walbro pumps are set up for Return style and since my cars returnless that it will go out quicker than normal.
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Old 11-26-2013, 03:11 PM
  #29  
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[QUOTE=mcrider;8313826]I would love to see more of that 1970 fastback
mustang in the picture![/QUOTE

Alright man I'll try to take a couple. I'm going to check on the car next Friday.
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Old 11-26-2013, 05:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Soldier GT
Damn man you really got me thinking. The day my car engine blew I was very low on gas. He&& I was on fumes. Also one of the things that the installer said that I needed was a new alternator. If you can look at the picture a little closer you'll see that I bought a brand new alternator. I never knew a lack of fuel and having a electrical issue could cause a engine to detonate. Also I bough a new battery. The only thing I'm worried about now is the alternator I bought having enough current. I bought the 105 amp polished alternator from AM.
Well I'm sure your fine with power, infact I feel I was the only person with this issue but that may be because I did it without a bap which might bandaid that stuff pretty easy. My tuner doesn't like baps because the bottom line is you don't have enough fuel flow so your overdriving the pump or pumps. Anyway imo if you have a pump designed for return style system, not return less the I would not run it in a return less system. They are designed for constant voltage not variable. Life expectancy can be really short. Return less systems like our factory set up control pressure by high and low voltage pulses to keep the pressure in the line constant. Return style run the pump or pumps all out all the time and the pressure is controlled by a regulator that dumps any of the extra fuel back into the tank.
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