mlcrycc

This is very interesting, and very timely for me. I just did an oil and filter change yesterday. For the first time, after reading many threads on the subject, I switched to Mobile1 synthetic, and stayed with the Motocraft filter. I must say, since up to this point I have only used the Motocraft semi synthetic, I was quite surprised upon refilling the car, how visibly thinner, almost water like, the Mobile 1 is in comparison...

You can bet I will be watching closely, as up to this point I have no issue with smoking......

Very informative thread guys, thanks.

Mike

BTJustice

CrazyAl: You'll get no argument from me on black oil not being good. It lets you know that the oil is keeping the inside of your engine nice and clean. I would be worried if I ran oil longer than 5,000 miles and it was perfectly clean/like new looking. The only way to ever really know what kind of shape your used oil is in is to get it analyzed (particularly the TBN # to let you know if the additives are still working or not). Also remember that when replacing the oil filter while leaving oil in your engine that oil is lost so you pour back in fresh oil. Granted not a lot. Maybe 1/2 quart or more. But that new oil somewhat 'rejuvenates' the additive package for all the oil in the engine. Plus that fresh filter will get some more of that dirt out of the oil if the old oil filter is in a bypass mode due to dirt.

I do disagree about your advice on using dino oil instead of synthetic oil. Synthetics are the future. In fact, I have heard all dino oils sold now are somewhat synthetic. Synthetics lubricate better especially at start up and in colder weather due to lower temperature pour points. They will not break down as easily as dino oil. They can take more heat due to higher flash points. It's a win/win situation using synthetics.

I should have been clearer about that black 8,000 mile Mobil1 EP oil I ran. It was not only black but had a gray tint to it. I have changed a lot of oil over the years and have never seen anything like that. Also, at start up, I noticed my engine would make a clicking sound for a few seconds. This doesn't happen with the Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic I am now running. I fully plan on having the oil sent to Black Stone Labs after a 5K run, again more than likely after a 7.5K run, and again definitely after a 10K run all of which will be mainly to find out the TBN # (I don't fully trust VOAs and UOAs). I will happily share my results with anyone that may be interested.

On my mistrust of VOAs and UOAs... I have seen many VOAs and UOAs for regular Valvoline All Climate (regular dino oil). These show that it has a rather weak additive package when testing for the common elements used in motor oil yet Valvoline does a great job. Numerous people have ran a lot of miles on it without any oil related problems. Here are a couple of links about it...

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...;Number=726822
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...;Number=792708

I guess people think oil now needs a lot of Calcium, Molybdenum, Phosphorus, and Zinc in it to be considered good. Why is that the VOAs and UOAs show regular Valvoline dino oil to have a weak additive package? My guess is that these VOAs and UOAs are not completely reliable. Kind of like an autopsy toxicology report. It won't show what is not tested for. Perhaps Valvoline uses a proprietary, top secret substance in their oil. Who knows other than Valvoline? They do make great oil... [sm=smiley20.gif]

CrazyAl

I agree with you completely about Snythetic oil being the future. Even though I change my oil very frequently, I only use synthetics becasue of the high temperature stability, coking resistance, and better lubrication at startup. Anyway, I'm sorry if this was confusing, but my point in the earlier posts wasn't so much about synthetic vs. dino. My point was that I consider FILTER changes to be as important, if not more important, than the oil change--regardless of what oil you run.

I belive that while the "main portion" of a synthetic oil can last a very long time, the additives and the filter can rarely last that long. I think a 10 or 15,000 mile service interval for the oil is far too long in practice, becasue most likely there is no way the filter and the additives can keep up, even if the base oil can. Of course, testing is the only way to know for certain. However, I would rather just replace the oil more regularly and be EXTRA sure that everything is in tip-top shape. Oil is inexpensive and easily changed. The last time I had oil samples sent in for analysis, that ended up costing me more money thana simple oil change would have.