Nice, I'm thinking about going with that or maby the dash mounted one.


Well my car has been running strong since I switch the coil packs on 5 too 6 and 6 too 5. I was just cruising around at about 2,000 RPMs and my flipping engine light turns on I got the code and now #4 is mis fireing. I have not changed anything on that one..... I'm so confused what is going on with my car????

 

I know the feeling.. I just got my supercharger back on after pulling it off.. I am pretty sure my problems were from a poor seal between the supercharger and the manifold. I just hope to God this solves the problem. Now the supercharger is leaking oil though, and might need to be replaced too.. I am at my wit's end here..

I wish I could offer more advice.. Some people chase spark blowout and misfires for a long time, and others chase vacuum leaks.. heh. If it happened at low RPM, I would venture to guess either you have too small of a gap, or bad plugs. The tighter you make the gap, the less likely you are to get spark problems under boost, but the more likely that you will misfire. I would go to .045 on those brisks and try that. If you stop throwing codes at low RPM, and start getting misfires at higher RPM, Then start to bring the gap down.. 8.5 psi is NOT considered aggressive and barely needs a cooler range of plugs, let alone a tight gap too. In the early S197 supercharger builds, hot plugs were causing problems sometimes, so now everyone just defaults to cooler plugs, and because of past experience, usually gaps them at .035 or smaller. Of course, it usually causes cold start and cold run issues, not warm run problems at low RPM.

I wish I had more suggestions..

 

Black and Blown,

Find someone who can read a data log and send it to them. If it's mechanical problem it can be ruled or or sometimes diagnosed with a datalog.

I've already expressed my opinion with Dkersten and his issues. Get your tune nailed down and then go from there. It can be done over the internet or on a dyno.

 

I hope that does work for you, Is it leaking oil from behind the pullie? Mine was leaking too and i called them and they sent me a new seal, they said they had a bad run of seals go out so that could be your problem there.

Well thank you for the advice, I'm glad your atleast throwing ideas out there for me to try. I'm gonna look at my plugs agin and see what they look like. And on Monday I will call Kenne Bell and have them refer me too a shop to take it too

Kenne Bell had also told me to try running my stock plugs, to see if its an problem with my plugs. So is that something i should try? Or is my car gonna run ****ty on stock plugs?

 

Alright, I am gonna see what I can get done on a dyno with a good tune

 

If the problem goes away with the factory plugs, then you know you had a problem with the other plugs. Good luck with the passenger side rear plug.. almost easier to remove the supercharger to get it.. hehe..

 

Yeah I know that plug is not fun, I just pulled off the TB and it made it a lot easyer.
Well with my stock plugs in gaped at .030 my car runs really strong,and the mising sound has gone away. Is it going too hurt my car running stock plugs?

 

Nope.. unless you start to get misfires under boost, you can leave them in..

 

Alright cool. Thank you verry much for all your input

 

I recommend the same gauges!
AEM or Autometer gauges are tried and true. Aeroforce gauge is sweet and reads 4 different things and cycles thru them. For your boost gauge get the mechanical one as it is IMO more accurate and has a faster response time over electric and for the fuel pressure the electric as derk suggested. Make sure the A/F ratio gauge is a wideband gauge and not a narrow band gauge as it is junk (WB costs more)