Black_N_Blown

I installed the stage 1 kit on my 08 GT about 3 weeks ago, First week it ran great just a little rough between gears. I called them and they told me too unplug the wires from the boost a pump switch and plug them into each other. So i did that and it ran great super smooth all the way though the gears. Then about two days after that my engine light came on. codes where misfire on start up, random misfire and bank 4 misfire. I looked over everything nothing is lose or leaking. After a few days of not being able too figure it out i pluged the boost a pump back up and seemed too fix it. Then next day when i hit WOT engine light starts flashing,And also bogges really bad,and cuts out. I ran the codes now bank 5 is missing. I've been talking too the guys at Kenne Bell everyday almost trying too figure this out, nothing they say for me too try has worked. My plugs are gapped at .030 ( I know there website sayes .025 but they told me to try .030) I have also tryed switching bank 5 and 6's plugs too see if its a bad plug but it did not fix anything.

I did not mean to right a novel to you guys, but I would really llike some help, Kenne Bell has basicaly ran out of ideas


I'm also running the Brisk plugs, one heat range colder

Thanks for any help you can give

dkersten

Do you have an AF ratio gauge? If so, what is it doing when the problem happens? Does it idle smooth? How long is the engine running when this happens? Does it only happen cold, or warm?

Their website says .025, but the tuner there told me .035 with the brisks. You did the Brisks with 14 in the model number, not the 12s right? the 14s are one heat range cooler. Have you pulled a plug to see if it is fouling? How is your fuel - does it have a high percentage of ethanol?

Oh, and how many miles on the engine?

Black_N_Blown

I dont have any gages yet.
It idles smooth just a little like a mis but Kenne Bell said thats just how these motors idle.
Sometimes I can drive a day or two tell it happens. and other times its everytime i step on the gas, it happens once its all the way warmed up and driving for awile.
Yeah i know they where gapped at .035 but kenne bell told me too try .030
yes there the brisks with the 14 in the model number. I looked at the plugs and they all look fine. I dont know what the % of ethanol is in my fuel Im just running 91 from the pump. My motor has a little over 11,000 miles on it.

dkersten

Yeah, mine sounds like it is missing just a tiny bit at idle too, but it idles smoothly.

What kind of temps and humidity are you driving in when it happens?

Have you checked to make sure the intercooler is pumping? I had to cut 10" off the line from the reservoir to the pump before it would keep prime. The new Bosch pump they send pumps like mad but can't pull air for nothing, so you have to make sure the line to the inlet never dips below the pump. I ran my first couple days with no water pumping to my intercooler.. Usually high IAT would cause pings or timing to be pulled, not misfires, but this was a problem with the current pump, so I thought I would check.

If you had an AF gauge you could tell if it was a lean or rich problem. If rich, your plugs aren't firing.. if lean, probably a fuel issue. I am having a problem with no fuel when engine is cold, but not getting any codes, just stumbles and sputters and goes pure lean. Sounds like you have the opposite problem - fuel but no spark.

All I could suggest is move the COP from a misfire cylinder to another and see if the misfire moves. Aside from that, I don't have any ideas. Maybe clean the throttle body, if it is sticking you could be going super rich and misfiring under certain circumstances.

Black_N_Blown

Well it's been need the mid too high 70's. And the humidity is dry too verry dry.

And my intercooler pump is running fine no problem there that i can tell.

Yeah I want want too get gages soon, what gages would you recomend? a boost, fuel press, and an AFgauge?

I moved the coil pack about two days ago and i have not got any codes yet. My throttle body seems clean and not too be sticking, but I will try cleaning it.

dkersten

Yes, that is exactly what I recommend. My AF gauge has been invaluable since KB sent the wrong tune first (mixup in paperwork for tuner), Boost gauge confirms that I have both good vacuum and boost is dead on, and if I had my fuel pressure gauge I could rule out the BAP, pump, and factory fuel rail pressure sensor for the problem I am having.

Well, I am out of ideas.. the hardest part about troubleshooting problems like this is that it is so inconsistent. The gauges might help to determine what is happening, and if you have an SCT or Diablo, you can try datalogging the problem and send the info to KB or to your favorite mechanic. I pulled my TB off and cleaned it just to rule it out.. there was a little carbon there, but nothing that seemed to affect anything, and of course it didn't help, but sometimes you just have to take a shot in the dark.

At least you are getting codes, so you could get a couple replacement plugs and replace if you get a misfire on one cylinder. If I want to rule out plugs I have to replace all 8.. Of course, seeing my AF gauge go off the scale for lean when the problem happens tells me it isn't a spark issue, so I don't have to spend the money for all new plugs.. that halfway paid for the gauge right there..

Black_N_Blown

Well I'm gonna try and get gages soon then, Is there a brand you recommend? I was looking at electric ones, or is the other kind better?





Yeah i'm glad i'm getting codes, I moved the plug over one too see is the problem followed and it did not, so I don't think it's my plugs, Yeah that helped you out plugs cost too damn much

dkersten

I did an AEM AF gauge..
For boost I was looking at doing an autometer that matched the AEM (sport comp II) fairly well..
For fuel pressure you have to go electric, and they are around $200+. You can't have a fuel line under pressure running into the cabin of the car.. too risky, so you get electric..

I might go with the Aeroforce in place of fuel pressure now, because I can montitor fuel rail pressure from the OBDII port, as well as other things like Intake Air Temp and stuff. Aeroforce is about the same price.. ~$200

Black_N_Blown

Alright thank you for your input, I will be getting gages soon.

Where do you have yours mounted? Dash, A pillar?

dkersten

I did a pillar mount and went with the SOS Pillar.. they use a factory pillar and attach their pods to it, all color matched nicely.. Costs twice as much as an ABS plastic one from Autometer, but I think it's worth it.