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Problems with Kenne Bell.....Help?

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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 03:27 PM
  #21  
Black_N_Blown's Avatar
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Originally Posted by mygt500
AEM or Autometer gauges are tried and true. Aeroforce gauge is sweet and reads 4 different things and cycles thru them. For your boost gauge get the mechanical one as it is IMO more accurate and has a faster response time over electric and for the fuel pressure the electric as derk suggested. Make sure the A/F ratio gauge is a wideband gauge and not a narrow band gauge as it is junk (WB costs more)
Well I just looked at all three of those companys websites, Theres a lot of gauges too choose from. I really like the Aeroforce gauge and that gauge does everything i need it to they say. but the look I'm going for is three gauges on my dash and maby three on the a pillar. so if i got that gauge would there be a need for 6 gauges? I'm need too the gauges thing so excuse me if i sound dumb
Old Jun 21, 2009 | 07:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by dkersten
I might go with the Aeroforce in place of fuel pressure now, because I can montitor fuel rail pressure from the OBDII port, as well as other things like Intake Air Temp and stuff. Aeroforce is about the same price.. ~$200
Wise decision. It is invaluable to me.

I would check any ground connections you made for the BAP or removed and reinstalled during the blower install.
Old Jun 22, 2009 | 10:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Black_N_Blown
Well I just looked at all three of those companys websites, Theres a lot of gauges too choose from. I really like the Aeroforce gauge and that gauge does everything i need it to they say. but the look I'm going for is three gauges on my dash and maby three on the a pillar. so if i got that gauge would there be a need for 6 gauges? I'm need too the gauges thing so excuse me if i sound dumb
You dont need 6 gauges......but if you really want them get
1. Wideband A/F ratio
2. Fuel pressure- electric
3. Boost- mechanical
4. Aeroforce gauge for other fuel parameters that the OBD2 can do
5. Water temp -if intercooled- think you are
6. volts
Old Jun 23, 2009 | 10:42 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mygt500
You dont need 6 gauges......but if you really want them get
1. Wideband A/F ratio
2. Fuel pressure- electric
3. Boost- mechanical
4. Aeroforce gauge for other fuel parameters that the OBD2 can do
5. Water temp -if intercooled- think you are
6. volts
Alright thanks, I do have the intercooled set up.
Do you guys normaly run the temp. seinsor for the water temp. too the radiator so you get the motors water temp. Or the intercooler lines? Thanks..
Old Jun 24, 2009 | 03:59 AM
  #25  
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I would do intercooler temp but others might disagree. I am sure you can monitor many other temp parameters on the aeroforce gauge.
Old Jun 24, 2009 | 08:04 AM
  #26  
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My car currently has the none Bosch pump and I am having issues. I bought a new Bosch/ Lightning pump to replace it. Does the newer style pump go in the same place as the old one? If anyone has changed out the pump did they change it without removing the front bumper?
Old Jun 24, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ziperhead
My car currently has the none Bosch pump and I am having issues. I bought a new Bosch/ Lightning pump to replace it. Does the newer style pump go in the same place as the old one? If anyone has changed out the pump did they change it without removing the front bumper?
I can't imagine trying to change it without removing the bumper.. it would take more time to try to do that than the 15 minutes to pull the bumper..

Make SURE the intake line into the new pump does not drop below the level of the pump at all! These pumps pump a lot of water but can't pump air for anything, so if it drops even a half inch below the intake of the pump it will collect air and you will lose prime. I removed the plastic piece on the left of the radiator and routed the line up along that side, then into the reservoir.
Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dkersten
I can't imagine trying to change it without removing the bumper.. it would take more time to try to do that than the 15 minutes to pull the bumper..

Make SURE the intake line into the new pump does not drop below the level of the pump at all! These pumps pump a lot of water but can't pump air for anything, so if it drops even a half inch below the intake of the pump it will collect air and you will lose prime. I removed the plastic piece on the left of the radiator and routed the line up along that side, then into the reservoir.
Was your pump a Bosch and was it mounted parallel to the ground between the two heat exchangers?
Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ziperhead
Was your pump a Bosch and was it mounted parallel to the ground between the two heat exchangers?
Yes. It is mounted to the top of the heat exchanger on the radiator side, parallel to the ground. I pulled it out and dunked the intake into a bucket of coolant and it wouldn't draw prime even 1/2 inch up. I had to tilt the bucket sideways until water was actually flowing freely into the intake before it would pump. My line was originally dropping about an inch below the level of the pump before reaching the intake, and air would collect at the intake of the pump and the pump would just sit there and spin with no prime. It was acting like a P trap in a sink or toilet, and the poor air pumping characteristics of the pump didn't even allow for the weight of the water above it to flush the air out.. Poor design for a pump that has to move water..

Works wonderfully well as long as you run the line down into the pump directly.
Old Jun 24, 2009 | 10:43 PM
  #30  
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Black N Blown, If you are still having issues, I recommend you see Adam at ST Motorsports in San Bernardino. I see you are located in CA but don’t know where. He works closely with Kenne Bell. I don’t have a supercharger yet but had him tune my GT and am loving it. When I went down to his shop, he had nothing but supercharged Mustangs in his shop. He is a master mechanic and comes highly recommended.



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