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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:14 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by BruceH

What Fuel Pressure Sensor cap and block are you using seen here in this picture?
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:46 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Boozshey
What Fuel Pressure Sensor cap and block are you using seen here in this picture?
It's the factory freak mod

Actually it comes with a Whipple for cai clearence.
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 09:20 PM
  #73  
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Hmmm, that means it can prolly be purchased... Got a part number or know where the whipple instructions are online?
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Boozshey
Hmmm, that means it can prolly be purchased... Got a part number or know where the whipple instructions are online?

Just looked it up in my install directions. It's a remote pressure transducer and only came with 2008+ kits. The directions are in a supplement that wasn't part of the standard directions. No part number.
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 11:27 PM
  #75  
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Hmm, I will give whipple a call tomorrow and ask them about it then. I emailed ya my addy, if you can kick over a scan or the e-file of that step that would be killer...
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 02:31 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by BruceH
The block looked identical to my stock block. I used all the covers off of my motor, even the factory stickers stayed on. You can't tell it from a stock motor.

Except for the supercharger

Yes, I went this route because I saved money. It all started with getting the Saleen stuff for $700 (cp pistons and manley h beams + rings, pins, bearings). I'm also not going for max boost so the 9.5:1 pistons are close to stock compression to retain unboosted power on the street. The frpp aluminator uses 8.7:1 pistons for higher boost applications.
Thanks.
Old Apr 4, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #77  
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I've been pounding on my engine for two straight years with 11 psi and at the 510 hp level and the only thing I have broke is a transmission. I got the dreaded third gear servo problem. I think the mistake a lot of people make is putting high boost levels with stock gears. When the trans goes into forth gear with a stock rear gear it loads the engine really hard and usually results in a rod failure. I have 4.10's and they take the load off the forth gear change. I have over 150 drag strip runs on my car since the blower install and no issues. Also interesting is the fact that I have never dynoed my car and have a box JDM tune. I don't even know what my A/F ratio is. My E/T numbers tell the real story of how much power I am making. My car weighs 3940 with me in it. I'm also pushing huge 285x40x18 Nitto's up front. My point is I think these stock engines can handle 500 RWHP as long as you choose the right gear and stay under or at 11 PSI.

Edit: for got to mention that I have 65,000 miles on the odometer as well.

Last edited by td1320; Apr 4, 2010 at 04:54 PM.
Old Apr 4, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by td1320
I've been pounding on my engine for two straight years with 11 psi and at the 510 hp level and the only thing I have broke is a transmission. I got the dreaded third gear servo problem. I think the mistake a lot of people make is putting high boost levels with stock gears. When the trans goes into forth gear with a stock rear gear it loads the engine really hard and usually results in a rod failure. I have 4.10's and they take the load off the forth gear change. I have over 150 drag strip runs on my car since the blower install and no issues. Also interesting is the fact that I have never dynoed my car and have a box JDM tune. I don't even know what my A/F ratio is. My E/T numbers tell the real story of how much power I am making. My car weighs 3940 with me in it. I'm also pushing huge 285x40x18 Nitto's up front. My point is I think these stock engines can handle 500 RWHP as long as you choose the right gear and stay under or at 11 PSI.

Edit: for got to mention that I have 65,000 miles on the odometer as well.
And this applies to a build thread how?
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 06:05 AM
  #79  
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You are the one that was defending your reason for doing a bullit proof build but only going for mid to upper 400 HP because you were affraid of putting a rod through the side of the block. I was merely pointing out that the factory block can hadle the HP levels you are shooting for with no problems. It was already questioned by someone else. I was only giving proof that the stock block can handle 500 hp and live.
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #80  
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i'm not singling out any particular
person here, just making a general
observation.

it's fine for people to disagree with the
purpose or method of a project, but it
just shows a lack of class and sensitivity
to come into a thread for the sole
purpose of arguing.

no one cares if you have run 800rwhp
on a stock block for 5 years and made
450 passes down the track all on 87
octane with a canned tune.

show support or gtfo.



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