You could do it the ChevyKiller (modaddict) way: http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25261

 

thanks SirKnight, i had actually searched a couple
of times for that thread and never could find it...

 

Something to consider . . .

When my motor was built I asked about the break in. Motor builder said he would start the motor and let it run for 30-45 minutes. Drain oil, new filter. Tighten the heads again. When my motor was built I had all ARP stuff put on. I do not know if you used the TTY bolts or new ARP stuff. He then drove the car car around tuning for drivability and after 100 miles or so, put it on dyno to get good AF readings and make a few conservative pulls. I showed up the next week and picked the car up. Timing was pulled and fuel added before I left. I put 300 more miles on the car . Mostly freeway, accellerating and decellerating, etc.

Everything seems to be just perfect with the motor. When I had my manifold off the other day for the 4th time in about a month, I looked down the cylinder heads and shined a flashlight on the valves. I'm not kidding, they look brand new out of the box.

And before the final dyno tuning the oil filter was changed and oil was topped off. I drove home like 700 miles and changed the oil again. After that, every 3000 or 6 months. Seems like 6 months comes first.

 

thanks for that insight Simon1.

what i'm starting to see, is that there is no one way
to go about the initial startup and first drive, but the
common consensus seems to be:

1) warm the engine up fully and while doing so, check for
leaks and top off the coolant system. It doesn't hurt
to vary the rpms, but keep them between 1700 - 2400
when you do.

2) optional: shut down, let cool a bit and change the oil.

3) get the car out on the road (if no dyno is available) and
apply a moderate load to the engine (approximately 15-20
minutes) to help seat the rings.

Most important item seems to be engine temperature. we don't
want the cylinder heads to get over 180* - 200*, because we
don't want the oil to break down and glaze the cylinder walls, before
the rings have a chance to wear evenly.

4) oil change

5) don't go crazy with the car for the first 300 miles or
so.

 

I wonder about the retorqing the heads. Maybe because he used ARP stuff.

Anyways, I have no doubt it will be fine.

 

you're probably right and i'm going to stop worrying about
it so much. i'll just start enjoying the car again and will
just take it easy for awhile.

 

maiden voyage update:

had a minor issue with coolant flow and air
pockets during initial engine warm up, but i kept
a close eye on cylinder temps (thanks aeroforce)
and eventually got everything in good order.

was feeling so good i skipped the optional
oil change and got her out on the road. the
car feels great and there was no hint whatsoever
of having lower compression. it simply feels strong
and i'm glad this project is finally winding down.

 

what pulley size are you using again?

 

i'm running the 3.375 (10psi Gen I) pulley.
i'd like to find a cheap 3.125 pulley and play
around with it after the engine is fully broke
in.

 

omg, how did I miss most of this thread! looked at your build pics though, got to say, its looking nice!