Drone/ whine
#1
Drone/ whine
Hi, I have an 06 GT with 50k miles on it. Lately I've been hearing this really loud droning sound. It kicks in at about 15mph and overpowers my straight pipes at around 40mph. I thought it was my tires at first so I bought 4 new falkens, but the noise is still there. I'm trying to narrow down the problem as best I can.
I have noticed a few things. When I let out of gear and just coast in neutral, the noise is still there, so does that mean it's not my rear end/ differential? Also, when I'm driving say 45mph and the road curves to the left, the noise gets a little worst. But, when the road curves to the right, the noise totally disappears. Do you think this could be wheel bearing issue? Any help/ input or how to's would be appreciated. I remember a while ago I saw Taco Bill had articles on the s197's but I'm at work and don't really have time to navigate. Thanks.
Frank
I have noticed a few things. When I let out of gear and just coast in neutral, the noise is still there, so does that mean it's not my rear end/ differential? Also, when I'm driving say 45mph and the road curves to the left, the noise gets a little worst. But, when the road curves to the right, the noise totally disappears. Do you think this could be wheel bearing issue? Any help/ input or how to's would be appreciated. I remember a while ago I saw Taco Bill had articles on the s197's but I'm at work and don't really have time to navigate. Thanks.
Frank
#3
Sounds like a wheel bearing. Raise the car and take off the wheels. Retract the brake calipers (or remove them) enough to let the wheel spin freely. Reinstall the wheels and tighten the lug nuts. Grab the tire at the top and bottom and attempt to push it in and out while trying to lift it. If the wheel bearing is bad the wheel will move back and forth a little bit. You can also try spinning the wheel and feel for any resistance or listen for a grinding or rubbing sound. The main thing is to get the brakes off the rotors to allow the wheel to spin and to make sure the tires are on tight so they don't wiggle on the hubs - both of these things will cause you to think something is wrong, lol. Oh, and BE SAFE. You will be yanking and pushing on a vehicle that's in the air.
#4
Hey jrockgts197 thanks for the info. I've been real busy all week, but I'm planning on trying that tomorrow afternoon. I checked out some parts on advancedauto in the meantime and the two front assmbys are around $50 each> Hopefully this is it and I don't have to keep guessing and repairing. Anyhow love my ford, hate my repair bills Thanks man.
#6
One good way you check is if you are driving is if you turn the wheel one way and it goes away and the other way it gets louder! drive at the speed its the loudest and turn the wheel slightly one way are the other!(like if you were a drunk driver) So if it gets louder when you go to left lets say it is most likely the other side,because you are loading that one more! so check that one first!
#7
Hey jrockgts197 thanks for the info. I've been real busy all week, but I'm planning on trying that tomorrow afternoon. I checked out some parts on advancedauto in the meantime and the two front assmbys are around $50 each> Hopefully this is it and I don't have to keep guessing and repairing. Anyhow love my ford, hate my repair bills Thanks man.
#8
Ok long story short it ended up being the front wheel bearing on the passenger side.
I followed jrockgts197's advice and narrowed it to the front passenger wheel bearing. I disassembled everything and found the bearing causing the problem. It was all rusted out and ****.
The replacement parts come in a hub assembly with the bearing inside, I bought it at Bennet auto supply for about $100. It's more than I expected but oh well. After I got the hub assembly I had to take the wheel, pads, caliper, and rotor off before I could get to the hub assembly.
*One thing to note is you have to open the brake bleeder slightly as you force the piston back in order not to send the old break fluid back to the master cylinder. I used a clamp to do this while controling the bleeder with a wrench (Be real careful not to let air get inside). After I installed the new wheel hub assembly (new wheel bearing) I took her for a test drive. There's no more grinding or vibration. Feels like I'm floating on air. I suspected the tires and or alignment initially so I had recently bought some new Falkens at sears for around $775, alignment included.
Thanks for the help guys
Frankie
I followed jrockgts197's advice and narrowed it to the front passenger wheel bearing. I disassembled everything and found the bearing causing the problem. It was all rusted out and ****.
The replacement parts come in a hub assembly with the bearing inside, I bought it at Bennet auto supply for about $100. It's more than I expected but oh well. After I got the hub assembly I had to take the wheel, pads, caliper, and rotor off before I could get to the hub assembly.
*One thing to note is you have to open the brake bleeder slightly as you force the piston back in order not to send the old break fluid back to the master cylinder. I used a clamp to do this while controling the bleeder with a wrench (Be real careful not to let air get inside). After I installed the new wheel hub assembly (new wheel bearing) I took her for a test drive. There's no more grinding or vibration. Feels like I'm floating on air. I suspected the tires and or alignment initially so I had recently bought some new Falkens at sears for around $775, alignment included.
Thanks for the help guys
Frankie
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