I was planning on getting a CIA and I was planning on making a heat shield for it. It's actually something I do often for electrical components so I know what I'm doing but I need to know how hot it gets under the hood so I know which material to use. I figured this would be a good place to start looking.

Thanks in advance

 

I haven't checked temps yet but it obviously depends on ambient temps, sunlight, travel distance, etc. The cooling system, which gets much hotter than under hood temps generally runs up to 180*. If you are runnign a super/turbo charger or nos it will be hotter under the hood.

 

Think it'll ever exceed 239*f without turbo or s/c? Even with beating on her on a hot sunny day (Chicago temp so like 100*

 

Think it'll ever exceed 239*f without turbo or s/c? Even with beating on her on a hot sunny day (Chicago temp so like 100*

 

If you reach 239* on an under hood temp, you will start melting components on your engine because your engine would be much hotter than that. So in short, no, I think on the hottest day and tracking the care at high noon youre underhood temps would not exceed 180*

 

It won't do much good. A lot has been discussed and tried and even if you CAN decrease the ingested air, the gain is minimal for all that work.

 

I've got the C&L street CAI which heatsoaks at idle. I made an aluminum heat shield and it didn't make any difference. I happened to notice that while datalogging other issues a while back and noticed the air intake temps rising and falling based on throttle & speed.

Datalog on Aug 22 @ 5pm in hot/humid Ft. Walton Beach FL shows AIR_CHARGE_TEMP ranging from 140deg @ idle to 84deg while cruising.

Only real difference I can tell is looks. Plus it gave me something to do one afternoon...

 

ABS plastic sheet is your best bet. I drive in West Texas where the ambient temps get above 110, imagine how hot it is sitting on asphalt in traffic. My JLT's ABS heat shield is never hot to the touch and has zero issues with deformation through all that intense heat.

 

Well, I don't have that in stock but I do have a bunch of different thicknesses of white and black formex gk and I can cut and score it on a laser so costs would literally be about 20 bucks in mat.

 

Have at it and get us before and after dyno #'s. Other than the usual variance between runs, I think you'll find your net gain a whopping "0". But I'm sure it'll look good so pics, too.