primetime5.0

check out WOLFE, just about the best there is.


http://www.wolferacecraft.com/Search...?CategoryID=10

J 85 GT

i run upr non adjustable tubulars on mine and they work great as far as not having wheel hop goes.

if only i could get those damn 235 et street radials to hook.

gspfunk

Did you look at the places I listed above? UPR and jdsperformance.com ....$169 for a set of non-adjustable U/L's

83FoxBody

Thanks again for those two references.

Now I just need to make a decision on which ones I want.

JDS Performance carried:
Granatelli: $199 u/l
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index....d=cat&inmake=0
Mac: $214 u/l
http://www.jdsperformance.com/index....&inmake=0&pg=2

UPR carried:
$219 u/l
http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/...asp?Search=Yes

Any suggestions?

r.barn

Stay away from both of those, it is VERY important to have a spherical bearing on one end of
the lower control arms to prevent suspension binding whiel cornering. If you dont want to pay for the
top of the line at MaximumMotorSports, get these...........

http://www.dndmotorsports.com/?page=...2f1fec6ebf355&
http://www.dndmotorsports.com/?page=...2f1fec6ebf355&
$300 for both parts.

you could probably just replace the lowers and be fine with removing the quad shocks.


Read thru this info on MM's web site.......

The rear control arms connect the rear axle housing to the chassis. All of the forces that accelerate the car, as well as the braking loads, pass through the rear control arms. In stock form, the deflection of the rubber bushings prevents the rear axle from maintaining its correct position under the chassis, leading to instability from rear steer. During acceleration, the rear tires push the axle forward, which in turn moves the car forward by pushing on the rear lower control arms. Replacing the rear lower control arms with MM control arms will improve traction and handling primarily because of the elimination of the overly compliant stock rubber bushings. With MM rear lower control arms, the properly designed bushing mounted in a stout tubular arm keeps the axle correctly positioned under the chassis. Traction and handling are both improved because the axle does not move around in an unpredictable manner.

Most aftermarket rear control arms use hard 2-piece urethane bushings, Delrin bushings, or steel bushings. Those types of bushings do not allow the angularity needed for the Mustang’s suspension to articulate freely. The resulting suspension bind causes the rear tires to break loose very easily. Suspension bind not only causes poor handling and poor traction, but it also causes damage to the torque-boxes. As the attachment points on the chassis for the rear control arms, the torque-boxes can suffer greatly from the abuse of poorly designed control arm bushings. After all, the torque boxes are only made of folded sheet metal.

Stop wheel hop
Ford’s solution for reducing wheel hop was the addition of the quad shocks (the two horizontal shocks mounted behind the rear axle). They reduce wheel hop by dampening axle wind-up. Axle windup is caused by two independent deflections: the control arms, and the rubber bushings. Deflection of the control arms is eliminated because the MM arms are over three times stiffer than the stock control arm. Deflection of the soft stock rubber bushings is eliminated by our unique bushing designs. These designs are the result of extensive motion analysis of what actually occurs when the rear suspension moves over bumps, and during body roll. Installing MM’s rear lower control arms eliminates the primary cause of wheel hop, which is the deflection of the stock lower control arms and their bushings. While there are other factors besides the compliance of the control arm bushings that cause wheel hop, the MM arms usually reduce axle wind-up enough to allow removal of the factory quad shocks.

Good Research is the Basis of Good Engineering
The concept of wheel rate is similar to that of spring rate. But, to put it into simple terms, the wheel rate is measured at the wheel, not at the spring. Poorly designed suspension components can prevent the control arms from articulating properly during bump and body roll, and therefore cause suspension bind. This suspension bind will cause the wheel rate to increase unpredictably, adversely affecting handling.

To analyze the geometry involved, Maximum Motorsports used a full-scale mock up of the rear suspension. When we tested other aftermarket control arms, we found that most use bushing designs that actually cause an increase in suspension bind, compared to a stock control arm! Control arms that had hard urethane bushings at each end increased the wheel rate by 400%! For example, as little as a 10% increase in rear wheel rate will have a noticeable effect on the handling balance of a car, because the rear cornering grip will be noticeably reduced.

So, why does the wheel rate increase? In the Mustang’s rear suspension design, whether it is still the stock 4-link suspension design, or has been modified to a Torque-arm or three-link design, the control arms do not simply pivot. The arms also move sideways, with an angular motion (relative to the pivot axis). If that angular motion is restricted because of a poor bushing design, the suspension will bind. While some aftermarket control arms may seem to improve performance because of reduced bushing compliance, it is only improved to a level slightly higher than the stock control arms. Once the car is pushed past that level, the increased wheel rate from the suspension bind will cause unpredictable handling– not to mention damage to the torque boxes.

To avoid that nasty situation, the two different bushing configurations of both the MM Heavy-Duty and Extreme-Duty Rear Lower Control Arms allow the necessary freedom of suspension articulation, while continuing to positively locate the axle in the fore-and-aft direction.

83FoxBody

Do I need anything else to go with these. There looks to be a circular area on top of the lower control arms, as if a bushing should ride there?

r.barn

thats where your spring sits, i think

boss429

get yourself a set of subframe connectors..
but the problem with that is if you can tinstall them yourself your gonna have to find someone with a mig welder.
you can buy rear control arm sets for your car too,
that should take care of some of the wheel hop.
wheel hop is dangerous and if you dont do something about it your gonna have bigger problems to worry about.