jimt3te50

Hi everybody, this is my first post here that isn't specifically saying hello but I was hoping you could offer me some suggestions or feedback on a 347 Windsor Combo for my non-mustang ford......

The abbreviated history on my car is it's a 2002 Ford Tickford TE50- the culmative efforts of Ford and Tickford in Australia prior to Tickford being disolved and replaced by Ford Performance Vehicle. Anyway, the car features a factory hand-built stroker engine that from factory put out 250kw/500nm. It was a stroker crank but standard bore so 342 is actually what it is. This engine featured a lot of specifically engineered stuff and the internals are a street-rodder's dream but there were compromises in it's execution- notably (albeit mildly worked) GT40P heads and a streetable cam.

I have spent a great deal of time researching the US forums for ideas and proven combinations and earlier this year completed what I am proud to say is a very powerful little Windsor engine. The list is as follows.....

Basically, in short this is what is done to the engine

AFR 185cc Alloy heads- 60cc chambers, modified pedestals for stud mount rocker gear
Comp Cams XFI 5.0 Stroker hydraulic roller camshaft- 236/248 @ .050", 286/300 total, .579"/.579" lift
Yella Terra 1.6 ratio adjustable Aluminium Roller Rockers
Full ARP Head, rocker and main studs
Full Felpro gasket set
Isky adjustable guideplates
Trend hardened chrom-moly pushrods
Crane double valve springs
Crane hydraulic lifters
ACL Race series rings and bearings
Rollmaster double row timing chain with nitrided gears
Stock T3 302W roller block- factory bored .020" oversize, torque plate honed
Stock T3 ACL Hypeurtectic pistons, dished and notched (9.7cc)
Stock T3 Argo shotpeened billet rods
Stock T3 Tickford nodular iron stroker crankshaft
Stock T3 Intake manifold
Stock T3 82mm throttle body and 80mm F150 Lightning MAF
Stock T3 laser cut main girdle
Stock T3 oil pump and sump
Stock T3 fuel pump and fuel lines
Bosch 43Lb injectors
MSD DIS4-High Output ignition system, Eagle Eliminator 8.0mm leads with Kevlar boots, MSD Coil Packs
Modified Cold Air Intake and K&N Pod Filter
Difilippo 4 into 1 ceramic coated s/steel extractors, twin hi-flow 3" s/s cats, twin 3" stainless steel all the way with X pipe, lukey Race mufflers and twin rear resonators
AU (SCT Flash Tuned) Edit- extensively tuned
345cu in (.020" over standard bore with stroker crank)
10.27:1 Compression Ratio
Naturally Aspirated

398.6hp (297.3kw) @ 6,000rpm and 370ft lbs (505nm) @ 4,000-5,800rpm- all taken at the wheels with stock 3.45 diff ratio ran in direct in DynoDynamics Shootout mode (Shoot8)

I am very very happy with the car- what I would like is opinions on a few things to make it better or suggestion/comments on any of the above I am already running.

The stock MAF is pegged by 3000rpm- for the results we have tuned around it- it is giving us the right AFR's so it MAY not be a problem. This MAF is the 80mm F150 Lightning unit with centre post/sampling tube- is this any good? What is better? Any suggestions?

Hydraulic Roller lifters- using OEM replacements from Crane and have a high RPM miss we initially thought was ignition, hence completely changing to a MSD Dis4HO isnition, Coil packs new plugs and leads. The miss comes in anywhere from 5800rpm and above- the cam should make power to 6300rpm at least and I feel the hydraulic lifters are letting me down. What works, I have looked at Rhoads Lifters (only on the net- can't get them in Australia) are these any good- being the bigger cam the low down torque would be nice, but are they any good at high RPM?) What are the best High RPM lifters to use over there?

TR3650- 3rd gear lasted 2 weeks with the new power level. A T56 5.0 replacement conversion is $8,000AUD!!! Are there any stronger parts available for the TR3650 in the US? I don't need to go 6 speed, although I would love the wider choice of ratios combined with a lower rear ratio to really make it move, but cost of the conversion here is a major problem...... What is another good box for the 5.0?

I am hoping to get it to the strip where I am hoping to see a mid 12 once I am more familiar with the car and the track- I have only been once beofre and the car was stock and that was 2 years ago......

The car weighs 4048lbs (1840kg) with driver

Is there any more info you guys would need to help offer feedback- I would really appreciate anything you have to offer. After all, most of the stuff I have gone off is what I have learnt here so thank you

92GreyGT

I'm not sure what to tell you about your MAF meter question but I think I can help with the others. The miss you are experiencing at 5800 is valve float. The problem is not the lifters, I think it's the valve springs. The problem with trying to turn a hydraulic roller set up that hard is weight. The valve spring is trying to control the valve and keep the lifter on the camshaft lobes. It's a fine line there because you don't want to much spring then you are going to have valvetrain parts breakage. Guys in the USA are running in classes that they have to use hydraulic roller cams and are turning them 7500+ RPM with minimal problems, so I know someone can accomidate your request with ease. I would contact Comp Cams and get some better springs. They may also want you to change to titanium retainers to reduce weight. That is a monster cam and you need some stout springs for it. I would lean towards be-hive springs, that's what I have. As far as the transmission question I would try to get a G Force T5. The bellhousings are plentiful to bolt up to a Windsor, if you have a clutch cable that will make it easier, I don't know about the crossmember though.

jimt3te50

Thanks for that mate-

I have been on to the Comp Cams site (which is bloody hard to find anything) and finally managed to track down the recommended part numbers- for both the springs and lifters- I will change the lifters out too.

Has anyone specifically had any experience with the Rhoads lifters? Good or bad I'd love to know. I like to do things that are a little different and no-one down here would be running them anyway- so if they are any good I would like to give them a try- they aren't all that expensive.......

Is there anything else anyone could suggest to make even better use of the gear I have- is 400 rear wheel hp about an average 347 EFI power level? I know over here it's pretty good considering n/a and no spray.......

The blocks are factory girdled and I hope this would account for some longevity but I understand that I may well be at my limits from what I have seen happen to Windsor blocks over here, running less power than mine.....

If so what are some good recommendations for blocks.......

Thanks

92GreyGT

My uncle had some Rhoads lifters in a GTO and he didn't care for them. It sounded like a solid lifter cam at idle. As far as function I don't know, the person he bought it from put them in there on a stock cam. Why would you need more low end torque on a 455 Pontiac? I think in principal they are a good idea for bringing back low end torque with a long duration cam like you have. I would just change to a lower rear, maybe a 4.10 if possible, that should help out alot.
400 rear wheel horsepower is smokin', from 347 cubic inches that's good no matter where you're from! I think the block should be ok as long as you stay away from power adders. As far as aftermarket blocks go, shipping will be alot but you just can't beat Dart or World products. They even offer blocks with extra head bolt holes to take the abuse of a power adders with reduced chance of blown head gaskets. Ford didn't forsee 30 lbs of boost and 600+ horsepower at the rear wheels from 302 cubic inches being a common thing when they designed these engines.
Good luck to you.

AdderMk2

There is also a company called Modular Mustang Racing They offer a TKO600 with upgrades packages to allow it to handle 750 and even 900HP

as for you MAF issues. You need to track down a 90mm lighning maf from the supercharged version.

As far as gears go, it all depends on what you want to do in the car. If you want to race it in the 1/4 mile (400m i think... i dont understand that metric bull**** anyway) You should give it a run and see what it does. If you are still at low rpm's at the top end of 4th gear, that will allow you to step up to a steeper gear like a 3.55 or 3.73

jimt3te50

thanks for the feedback fellas- a TKO won't fit the trans tunnel sadly. I have been looking at the G-Force stuff, at least I can get a crossmember, speedo drive and run the same starter- with the T56 I have to change all that...... plus it's the aforementioned $8k hurdle!!

The 90mm Lightning MAF is the one I have been considering- was hoping someone would suggest it as it means I am on the right track. Would you have thought the 80mm one would have been enough?

I guess it was a little hopeful to build the engine and not have any issues so the ones I am having is pretty good I reckon- so far it's made all it's power under 6000rpm. Here's the dyno graph

[IMG][/IMG]

I imagine going around 112mph over the 1/4 and first gear in the TR3650 for the T3 (my car) is very short so the gearing is not too bad for a 1/4 dash. On the street it's different, 3.9/4.11's would make it go like a cut snake but jus wantt o make sure everything is spot on in the engine first..... I can't change rear end ratio with the current box, first would be far too short and i do plan on doing more circuit work than blacktop......

Just a picture of the car for you

[IMG][/IMG]

Thanks again for your suggestions guys......